88 Camaro - which aftermarket posi ?

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To name a few! I hope this helps, but your car will handle like absolute shit!

Sincerely,

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King
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Agreed if for competition!

Because everything is fabricated. But then again so are the aftermarkets, just not as crappily as the OEM mass produced units.

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King

All I did on that body style came right out!

I'm an old fart, and did quite a few of that body style!

LOL

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King

All a 12 bolt was a GM designed Spicer:

Now Dana bought out Spicer and added all the GM improvements. Why do you think Mopar needed 8.5, 8.75 and F.O.R.D. needed 8.5, 8.75 and 9"?

They certainly didn't make the HP that GM's were making, not even what the Buick Stage 4 was making.

So that's another option you gave that no one else mentioned. Thanks Charles!

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King

Actually under 400 to 500 FT. LBS. of Torque you aught to be fine with the stock rear end housing. You can Upgrade to Moser Axles, Richmond Gears, and after market barrings.

Moser make both a Bolt in Ford 9 Inch, and a Chevy 12 Bolt for yor car. TRhe Ford rear end is less expensive, maybe around $900 to $1000, the Chevy rear end is around $1,700 to $2000 or so.

In next years parts budget is a Moser 12 bolt for my 85 Trans Am, going with 4.88 richmond gears I already have. Charles

Reply to
Charles Bendig

I have been looking in to the rear ends availible for 3rd & 4th gens for a while. I have a customer who has a Paxton Centerfuge type blower on a

1995 Camaro. He has already had an axle issue. Im trying to convince him to get the Moser 12 bolt unit. I even offered to install it for a mear $300. Charles
Reply to
Charles Bendig

"The History of the Firebird" by Marc Cranswick, pages 81 and 87 :). Browse it at Barnes and Noble (no, I don't get royalties. LOL)

Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 26k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 141k and still going.... '80 T/A project car...

Reply to
Bigjfig

You changed the tranny then, the original was a THM350. I don't buy 403 cars---too common and I don't like Oldsmobile power in a Pontiac.

If it's got an arrow head and I own it, it's got the heart of an Indian.

As for photos, the car is featured in "The History of the Firebird" by Marc Cranswick which you can find at Barnes and Noble. My car is on page 81 and 87. No, I don't get royalties. LOL.

Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 26k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 141k and still going.... '80 T/A project car...

Reply to
Bigjfig

The Moser is a Spicer:

With the Auburn and the Moser axles and C-Clip eliminator kit. Basically bulletproof for that application, and will handle much better than a 9", because of the separate center section and tube design.

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King

hey, if ya know of a 9" for a 69 for $200. i'm there! lol but a 9 bolt, hmm...

Reply to
StyxNStones®

Oh man, do I ever! (You Da man for offering!) Ok, here goes the questions!

1) Installing carrier bearings: I got a new set here. So how hard are they to install? - I don't have the Kent-Moore J-??? tool that the service manual calls for to hammer the new bearings onto the new carrier. I am told that these are like a .003 interference fit, so what is the best way to get them on the Auburn? (can I make a tool? - I do have TIG and stick welders) 2) Case spreader: Do I need one for this 7.625" ? Will I be able to pry out the old carrier Ok ? 3) Undercarrage clearance: on a 3rd gen, is there enough room with under there to get this out? 4) Installing final preload shims: 2 x .004=.008, will I be able to tap them in without mashing them ? 5) Ring gear bolts: I am told by some diff shops that "IF" there was no catastrophic failures, you can re-use old ring gear bolts, just use a string of red LockTite (and prey that you don't need to take them off again). Theroy goes, that the people writing the manuals have to cover ALL reasons for working on the diff, *including* those who have suffered catastrophic failures (which would have caused bolt stretch/fractures). 6) I need a dial indicator - any recommendations. And how do I use it on the ring gear to measure existing, and new backlash ? 7) Auburn opperation: (I ordered the high performance model, not the stump pulling "Pro Series" one.) Is it a "linear" engagement, or snap in, snap out? Will the "differentiation" be variable to some degree? And just what "does" happens in a turn? - most of my wheel spin problems *are* in a turn out of a stop sign on slight incline when its raining, and where I live here in the Northwest, thats like everyday! 8) cover plate and oil: Auburn is saying to replace oil every 7,500 miles - thats like every-other oil change! I seen one high performance web site offering a cover plate with a drain plug in it for $29. Is this a worth while endeavor? And in this new pan, doesit have a magnet cemented to it like the stock one? If I go that route, and have to move the magent, what glue do I use to re-cement it to a new cover w/ plug? Oil: Synthetic "what" - 70W-90, straight 90?, what? And what brand? And what of the "friction modifier" juice? (AKA slip additive) - does it mix with the synthetic, or is there synthetic limited slip additive? 10) last, but not least: (to liven things up a bit) What the hell does this gear lube stink like this ?

So there you go, - you offered to help answer questions. I'm a little apprenhsive about this (can you tell ?) I'm pretty well versed with the tools (and welders), and rebuilt many engines, and automatic tranny's, just never set up a differential carrier like this, "expecially" on my baby here. But I can tell you, I'd be forever in your debt for you help and hand-holding while I get thru this.

Thanks man !

Reply to
Mr Wizzard

Correct, this will be an every-day car, and the sole reason for even being in this situation was the clunking (which turned out to be *very* sloppy spider/side gears) PS: I only put 3K miles on this car in the last NINE years, and mainly because of this clunking, and drivetrain wrap up & slop. Car basically sat in a heated garage for 9 years. Now I'm in a position to want to get it fixed, and enjoyable to drive again. I made a list of all the things that bothered me about this car, and was keeping me from driving it every day, and this was the main one. Clutch (chatter/grab) was second, but last months new Centerforce Gold fixed all of that. After this I will go after the "notch" in the TBI throttle plate shaft. (the first 1/4 inch into the accelerator pedal, you feel a "notch", and the RPM's jump a bit - real pet peave.) Buts thats all next month, or when I get done with this, or if someone knows the fix for this while I'm waiting for my Auburn to arrive.

Reply to
Mr Wizzard

Only the 2nd (Mark Williams) link works. (which is a way cool site too)

Reply to
Mr Wizzard

thanks for the no disrespect.

I guess it would come down to cost. what did you pay for your unit mr. wizzard?

when I was driving my 81 as a daily driver I still preferred the 9" simply because of the strength and ease things could be changed. if it made noise you can pull the pumpkin and bring the full set of gears onto a work bench and adjust it then put it back in. you could even keep an extra pumpkin on hand. one with racing gears and one with highway gears for those long trips.

but seeing how little he drives it .....cost is the factor.

--

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Reply to
S.S.I.N.

I want to say like $375-$380? And I realize that I may have paid a few dollars more than the cheapest place out there, but the place I got it from has been

*ultra* helpfull with E-mail and phone support, and special shipping/return/upgrade arrangements, and so I find value in that.

True (in a way). One of the goals in this all is "TO" get it driven more. I want to eliminate all of the things that made me "not" like driving it, and to start using it, and drriving it a lot. The car ain't probably worth anything on the open market, even as clean and pristine as it is, so I figure I might as well use it all up and get some enjoyment out of it. Another side goal of this project is to try to convert it (suspension wise) to Z-28, (or even an Iroc). So I'm researching the difference between a straight 88 Camaro, and a Z-28 (or Iroc) Camaro, and what it would take to get it to handle like one. Far as I can tell, its mainly the sway bars. But I also have to research if the steering box, and steering ratio is the same. Also researching of a leather Z-28 steering wheel will be a straight swap out of the ugly stock wheel. So yeah, yer right, a 9-inch is way over kill at this point. But its still good information anyways - you never know, way down the road, when the car is all used up as a "pretty everyday car, I may want to git it all and put in a 282 stroker, and make a strip, and "semi" street car out of it.

Reply to
Mr Wizzard

I'll have to check the favorites on my other computer?

Autoweld is in Danville, Pa.

Really nice people and lots of experience, they actually make Moroso's and many other people's ladder bars and suspension parts.

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King

Shit, so this is mandatory to spread the case to get the preload shims in ? If I build a case spreader, will it spring back, and what is the gaurantee that it will spring back EXACTALLY .008? I thought these were used to get the diff "out", not open it up for preload shims. Seems odd that you'd find the zero-clearance fit with a relaxed case, then spread to get .008 in, and hope that it will spring back exactally .008

Installantion kit didn't come with ring gear bolts.

Got a favorite place I can get these from? (URL?)

Damn. Not planing on "nailing" it, but I'd like to know that I got "some" consistant Posi action throughout the duration of the turn - otherwise, what good is it really?

Yeah, but remember, working on Auto's *are* a walk in a part - you ain't hammering on bearings with .003 interference fits, "stretching" large steel housings to get shit to fit, heating up ring gears to get them to mount on the differential and all of that. Auto's are just a lot of snap rings, and compressing a clutch pack down to get yet another snap ring on, lots of O-rings, and lotts of little piece-parts to remember where they went, and so pretty easy. Its just that case spreading, carrier bearrings deal that I fear. But full report when I dive in (this weekend)

Reply to
Mr Wizzard

Reply to
the tall one

You will NOT need a case spreader with the 7.5. The shims tap in easy enough with a drift, punch, or even a small hammer.

I haven't looked in that section of the GM service manual in a while but I think the case spreader is only used on the 9.5 gear and larger. Most techs work on those without the spreader.

Reply to
Big Dav160

I've done auto boxes but never a diff/posi so I would be interested to hear about how it goes. Any chance of some pics while you do the job ??

Reply to
Terminal Crazy

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