88 Camaro - which aftermarket posi ?

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I think the After-Market bolt in 12 bolt rear ends are the way to go. Especially for a street driven F-body. Charles
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All a 12 bolt was a GM designed Spicer:
Now Dana bought out Spicer and added all the GM improvements. Why do you think Mopar needed 8.5, 8.75 and F.O.R.D. needed 8.5, 8.75 and 9"?
They certainly didn't make the HP that GM's were making, not even what the Buick Stage 4 was making.
So that's another option you gave that no one else mentioned. Thanks Charles!
Refinish King

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I have been looking in to the rear ends availible for 3rd & 4th gens for a while. I have a customer who has a Paxton Centerfuge type blower on a 1995 Camaro. He has already had an axle issue. Im trying to convince him to get the Moser 12 bolt unit. I even offered to install it for a mear $300. Charles
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The Moser is a Spicer:
With the Auburn and the Moser axles and C-Clip eliminator kit. Basically bulletproof for that application, and will handle much better than a 9", because of the separate center section and tube design.
Refinish King

the
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$300.
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You did well getting the Auburn. It is not hard to install. Just make sure to torque the ring gear and side caps (don't mix the caps left to right) and just make sure to get the backlash and side bearing preload correct. The Eaton unit is also very good.
I don't have direct experience with the power trax but I've heard they are VERY noisey.
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I know you already have bought a diff and all that, but I wondered why no one mentioned the Torsen units that are now available for the 10 bolt rearends. The last couple of years f-bodies were still being made, they came from the factory with them; SLP would take off the factory ones, replacing them with a heavier duty Torsen; they would sell the takeoffs for $100 and the heavyduty ones for $300.
Also, why do some of the replies say the auburns are clutchless; they don't have clutch-packs per se, but the diff action is clutch/friction, nonetheless. It is kind of cool how it uses the beveling of the spider gears to tighten the clutch-cones as the power increases!
--Ken "factory Auburns suck, but the 'pro' ones are OK" Dye
--
Ken R. Dye '67 Bonneville ragtop "Juan": suncar
Chicago, Illinois '01 Z28 ragtop "???": funcar
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wrote:

Hey, can you explain this further to me? I spent some time studying this unit, and looking inside of it (the best I can see), and couldn't figure out how it works. It appeared to me that the plates that the springs press against ride right up against the edged of the side gears (which looks like it would cause a lot of grinding action.) Also, I saw these pad things that looked like that refridgerator magent material up between the case and the outside of the cones, and was wondering if they were friction clutches, or anchoring pads. I'd love to understand how this unit works. I drove it some more today, and trying to get a feel for how it works. One thinf that did concern me though... when pulling out from a red light, I felt this big "slip" as if I hit a bananna peel or something. The thing was, I was pulling out straight - no curves or turns. I wrote it off because this was like in the first 10 miles, and I really hadn't had enough time with it to get the feel for it yet, and it might have even been something in the street.

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I googled this to get a picture w/my explanation and found a couple of cool, apropos links:
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fastcar/diffey.html
(general diff FAQ)
http://www.auburngear.com/aftermarket/products/differentials /
The second, auburngear.com link has a great cutaway picture as well as a textual explanation that is better than what I was going to post.
http://www.auburngear.com/aftermarket/drex /
I didn't know about this, $85 for a rebuild with mostly new parts sounds like a good deal!
--Ken
--
Ken R. Dye '67 Bonneville ragtop "Juan": suncar
Chicago, Illinois '01 Z28 ragtop "???": funcar
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'preciate all the info, however, and from the first link, it doesn't gel. I read this many times, and don't understant it (or by it the way its described) :
Ahh yes Positraction, most commonly referred to as the Slip-Plate Style Limited Slip Differential by engineers of Eaton, who actually designed the thing in the mid 20th century for muscle cars of the era. This is essentially an open differential, with a set of clutch plates hooked to some springs. These springs have a set amount of force which they can apply to the clutch-plates, helping to transfer torque. Take the mud puddle story above for example, with an Auburn or Eaton Slip-Plate style differential, as one wheel slips and spins up the differential now will start pressing together two Kevlar or steel plates together, creating friction, and hopefully moving the car right out of the hole - sounds good doesn't it? Its a very simple device, but it too has its downfalls. When one wheel slips, and it must slip for this to work, the springs slap the plates together and begin to transfer torque to the other side of the car... Depending on the differential this could be anywhere from 5% to 20% of your total torque capacity - which is luckily enough to get you out of that mud puddle, but will still get a heck of a lot of mud on your car as that other wheel keeps spinning up!

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