88 Camaro - which aftermarket posi ?

If you stretch the case .008:

It will go back .008, believe me! It might want to go back more. So just make sure to try to stay away from going more than .010, which might tend to crack the case.

I've spread them up to .014 for race applications, but these were track only cars, and the people were not objectionable to taking a chance, and you don't need that much preload on a street car. (you'd fry bearings weekly)

Have you ever done a Doug Nash, or a Hemi box, maybe a Ford top Loader? Then you'd be beating on things much scarier with performance gear sets!

Good luck!

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King
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But most techs don't put in aftermarket differentials:

Especially ones that disassemble at the side, which require a preload to help keep the stress off of the differential case assembly bolts.

Respectfully submitted,

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King

Yeah!

Some pics of the local ho tooting you while you're installing the posi unit would be a laugh too!

LOL

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King

You're right - it was a walk in the park actually. And its a 7.625 actually (with a 26-spline).

Reply to
Mr Wizzard

Yeah, I got some picks, but mostly of dissassembly. I will be a link to them here shortly.

Reply to
Mr Wizzard

I know you already have bought a diff and all that, but I wondered why no one mentioned the Torsen units that are now available for the 10 bolt rearends. The last couple of years f-bodies were still being made, they came from the factory with them; SLP would take off the factory ones, replacing them with a heavier duty Torsen; they would sell the takeoffs for $100 and the heavyduty ones for $300.

Also, why do some of the replies say the auburns are clutchless; they don't have clutch-packs per se, but the diff action is clutch/friction, nonetheless. It is kind of cool how it uses the beveling of the spider gears to tighten the clutch-cones as the power increases!

--Ken "factory Auburns suck, but the 'pro' ones are OK" Dye

Reply to
Ken R. Dye

Hey, can you explain this further to me? I spent some time studying this unit, and looking inside of it (the best I can see), and couldn't figure out how it works. It appeared to me that the plates that the springs press against ride right up against the edged of the side gears (which looks like it would cause a lot of grinding action.) Also, I saw these pad things that looked like that refridgerator magent material up between the case and the outside of the cones, and was wondering if they were friction clutches, or anchoring pads. I'd love to understand how this unit works. I drove it some more today, and trying to get a feel for how it works. One thinf that did concern me though... when pulling out from a red light, I felt this big "slip" as if I hit a bananna peel or something. The thing was, I was pulling out straight - no curves or turns. I wrote it off because this was like in the first 10 miles, and I really hadn't had enough time with it to get the feel for it yet, and it might have even been something in the street.

Reply to
Mr Wizzard

I googled this to get a picture w/my explanation and found a couple of cool, apropos links:

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(general diff FAQ)

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The second, auburngear.com link has a great cutaway picture as well as a textual explanation that is better than what I was going to post.

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I didn't know about this, $85 for a rebuild with mostly new parts sounds like a good deal!

--Ken

Reply to
Ken R. Dye

'preciate all the info, however, and from the first link, it doesn't gel. I read this many times, and don't understant it (or by it the way its described) :

Ahh yes Positraction, most commonly referred to as the Slip-Plate Style Limited Slip Differential by engineers of Eaton, who actually designed the thing in the mid 20th century for muscle cars of the era. This is essentially an open differential, with a set of clutch plates hooked to some springs. These springs have a set amount of force which they can apply to the clutch-plates, helping to transfer torque. Take the mud puddle story above for example, with an Auburn or Eaton Slip-Plate style differential, as one wheel slips and spins up the differential now will start pressing together two Kevlar or steel plates together, creating friction, and hopefully moving the car right out of the hole - sounds good doesn't it? Its a very simple device, but it too has its downfalls. When one wheel slips, and it must slip for this to work, the springs slap the plates together and begin to transfer torque to the other side of the car... Depending on the differential this could be anywhere from 5% to 20% of your total torque capacity - which is luckily enough to get you out of that mud puddle, but will still get a heck of a lot of mud on your car as that other wheel keeps spinning up!

Reply to
Mr Wizzard

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