Bent Front Crossmember

First, a little background....................please excuse the lengthiness, I am not here to rant or rave. I'm looking for some advice or suggestions.
It was a dark and stormy night..................... Okay cheesy beginning, but sometimes we need some comic relief.
Now for reality: I began having a continual squeal emanates from the front brakes of my '84 T/A. At first I was thinking it was wheel bearings and brakes getting ready to belly-up, but my 17 y.o. son, wanting to be helpful and have a learning experience, asked me to take the car to his vo-tech school's shop so he could look into the problem. I thought, "what the heck, examine and diagnose," besides, I want to be a supportive dad.
Well it turns out, according to the shop instructor, that GM's have had this problem with front disc brakes rusting the caliper compression pins (hey, I'm not that well versed in brake terminology) in such a way that they do not completely release the brake pads from the rotor, hence the continual squeal. OK, we can say, problem solved, just rebuild the calipers, polish the pins and guides, lubricate with silicone (being careful not to get any on the pads or rotor surface), and be on your way.
That's not where the problem lies, though. It's the way my son elevated the car for the examination. When my son went to lift the car he positioned a floor jack under the crossmember right behind the front bumper and under the radiator. I asked him if that was a good place to put the jack and he said everything is solid, and in this way he could check both wheels at once. Apparently that turned out to be the wrong thing to do.
By raising the car by THAT crossmember the front bumper gap to the hood is now at 1/2 inch when it used to be about an eighth or quarter. Also, the left side of the hood is higher that the left fender. It's like the fender has drooped a half inch. The right headlight, when activated, contacts the hood, but does come up. Enough of the cosmetic, now for the mechanical: The fan is now in contact with the fan shroud, preventing it from turning. I didn't find out about this for three days. Most of my driving is typical city traffic, but I, fortunately, have the luxury of cruising along above 40mph most of the way. Well, tonight I didn't have that luxury. At the later point of my commute home, traffic came to a standstill, and physics, mechanics, or whatever, finally took over and caused the engine to overheat. After a little cooling down period I limped my Bird to my local mechanic. At first he thought that my front engine mounts may have failed and caused the engine to droop down. When I told what my son had done he told me to go visit a body shop, maybe they can do something.
Any advice or suggestions are welcomed. Thanks in advance.
Fire-TA '84 T/A w/ T-Tops
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Sounds like he jacked it up under the radiator support bracket. That would push the radiator up and also most of the nose. Would also raise the hood. If so, the bracket can be replaced, but involves quite a bit of work. I would also suggest a body shop if you aren't into removing the entire grille and nose assembly. Jim

had
they
continual
elevated
positioned
hood
the
contact
way.
cooling
that
down.
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Sounds like your son bent the unibody. NOT GOOD! The front radiator support is part of the physical front structure of the car. You'll probably have to take it to a body shop and see what they can do.
He should have jacked on the crossmember that goes under the engine.
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We all have to start somewhere................ For him it's a learning experience. Unfortunately, for me, it will be an expensive repair.
Fire-TA '84 T/A w/ T-Tops
says...

him
support is

take
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How about this for a poor man's solution???
1. Raise and support the front of the car 2. Get a 4x4, with a length being the width of the main frame. Position under crossmember. 3. Get a piece of 4x4 that is slightly longer than the height of your hydraulic jack. Position under one of the frame rails and on the long 4x4. 4. Position your hydraulic jack under other frame rail and on the long 4x4.
Now for the tricky part (because I haven't yet looked to see if there is clearance): 5. Wrap a sturdy chain around the cross member and long 4x4. 6. Now, SLOWLY, and carefully, pump the jack until the crossmember straightens (1/4", 1/2", 1.0").
Fire-TA '84 T/A w/T-Tops
says...

him
support is

take
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I know I'm hitting this one late but, what the hell... your son apparently thought he had the jack under the K member which is what goes under the motor and supports the whole front end. Motor, suspension, and uni-body. your son bent the front unibody by jacking under the radiator cradle. Depending on the damage it might be fixable by just had a tallented body shop just do a little nickle and dime work to get the car body line to look somewhat decent. This however is not recomended as it still leaves the structure of the car at off-kilter, and could wind up posing a safety hazzard other than that your best off going to a Reputable pro with excessive experiance with F-body's. That way you know youve got someone who really knows the car and will fix the car right. And next time "you man the floor jack"
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All,
Did you read my "Poor Man's solution"? Is it viable? I'm recently unemployed, and went my son's root because of it.
Fire-TA 84 T/A w/ T-Tops

motor
son
the
little
This
best
way
right.
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I should have written "route: instead of "root".
Fire-TA 84 T/A w/ T-Tops

apparently
on
your
That
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A poors man solution yes. but remember it still doesnt fix the real problem just masks the fact that its there. If you do this dont make it permenent, because it could leave an underlying problem that ultimately could cause you more head aches in the future. Good luck with the fix
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Thanks for the Post. Exactly what are you alluding to? Stupid as is may sound, wouldn't pulling down the crossmember, in effect, push the frame back into proper position?? Where is the "real" problem? I'm at a loss here...........
Fire-TA 84 T/A w/ T-Tops

problem
you
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