Heck I;m interested myself. I have some very light scratches, but
it's on a different kind of paint job probably. I have a 2001 Z28 wit
some light scratches like I said. What would you suggest for me if
different than for Terry? I could even take digital photos and email
them or post them on a web somewhere perhaps if it would help.
Scratches are so light though, that it would be a challenge to get
good pictures of it.
On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 23:32:08 -0400, "Refinish King"
What I posted will work on base/clear too:
Providing the scratches aren't too deep?
Does your fingernail get caught in them, when you put your nail right in
them at a 90 degree angle?
Let me know?
I don't have any scratches in my paint job that I can feel with my
All look real superficial, yet they don't come out with normal car wax.
I'd like to hear a little more about the sandpaper technique, this kind of
makes me nervous--
you take some 1500 to 2000 grit sandpaper and start running it all over the
water running over it? Is it special sandpaper for 'metal', or is it for
auto paint specifically?
Sorry 'bout the dumb questions, but I've never tried that before, and this
paint job cost 5K.
Then, after going over all painted surfaces like this, you polish with the
#2 Maguire's compound,
then finish with #9? I guess I could start in an inconspicuous area of the
car, or better yet do
the family car first ('98 Malibu) to build up my technique, then proceed to
definitely. Get a scrap fender or use the inside of the trunklid first
on the 'bu. My dirt track car has been a great learning experience for
bodywork, paintwork and welding.
Lots of water and work lightly...
1500 $ 200 are made specifically for paint:
Actually, they are only half sheets in the package. you'll need to buy
squeegees used to put on nitro-Stan, and a sanding pad, made by Motor guard.
it's gray on one side which is hard, and black and soft on the other side.
The paper will wrap around it three times, and overlap on one side. you'll
need a bucket full of water, with some dish washing soap in it, and a stream
of water, I usually dip a sponge in the bucket and let it drain above the
area I'm sanding.
Then sand lightly, and listen, also check often for built op grit and wash
the paper. To not make deep scratches. Squeegee off the area every time you
stop sanding, you'll see if the scratches are there or not. just light
sanding, then stop, squeegee and check until you get the feel.
Then the scratches will be so fine, that you can use the #2 by hand to get a
good shine, and the #9 by hand to see yourself!
Your 98 Malibu won't have as much paint as the car with the $5,000.00 paint
job on it!
Try the stuff the pros use - check out these products
You have to buy it from a car paint supplier - not the local speed shop. You
could email them to find your nearest stockist. Its expensive but the best.
They make a range of different products - your choice depends on how flat
your paint is & therefore the degree of abrasiveness you need to bring back
the shine & cut out any scratches.
Most bodyshops use powered polishers because of their throughput, but you'll
get the same results manually - with more effort! Apply it to a wet good
quality polishing cloth - not any old rags!
Overpriced repackaged shit!
You can buy 3-M over the counter for less money, without the risk of
In 36 years, I've never seen that stuff in any auto body trade magazine, or
any of the hundreds of body shops or recon shops that I've visited!
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