buffing out paint-- any suggestions??

1500 to 2000 grit sandpaper the coarsest:

Sand in small areas, use a squeegee often, and listen for an eerie squeak, that's broken grit building up. Making really deep scratches.

Use a steady stream of water, from a big sponge while sanding or a small stream from a hose. Use your fingers sideways, or buy sanding pads made by a company named: Motorguard. they're hard on one side, and soft on the other.

At all costs, keep the sandpaper clean, because the broken off grit will make the scratches so deep, you'll never get them out!

Squeegee often, to see if it's smooth enough to move on to the next area. When done, use MaGuiars #2 and buff lightly with a terrycloth rag, available at AutoZone or advanced auto parts, until you see a good gloss. Then use MaGuiars #9 to remove any haze and swirl marks, you'll be able to see your self and shave.

Refinish King

PS Any coarser paper will require the use of an electric buffer.

Reply to
Refinish King
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It's with Maguiars too:

Just with finer sandpaper.

Please read the post?

Sincerely,

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King

What I posted will work on base/clear too:

Providing the scratches aren't too deep?

Does your fingernail get caught in them, when you put your nail right in them at a 90 degree angle?

Let me know?

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King

I'm talking with a guy now, that has a nice CNC,

Who might be interested in making me some steering knuckles, like Mopar did for the Daytona's with the V-8 conversion.

But for the J body GM. Instead of framing the whole next one I do, make it just a rear frame section.

So far I'm on my third one, and the PA State Inspection Quality Control, is on my ass about not getting specially constructed titles for these cars?

Fuck em if they can't take a joke?

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King

I don't have any scratches in my paint job that I can feel with my fingernail. All look real superficial, yet they don't come out with normal car wax.

I'd like to hear a little more about the sandpaper technique, this kind of makes me nervous-- you take some 1500 to 2000 grit sandpaper and start running it all over the car, with water running over it? Is it special sandpaper for 'metal', or is it for auto paint specifically? Sorry 'bout the dumb questions, but I've never tried that before, and this paint job cost 5K. Then, after going over all painted surfaces like this, you polish with the #2 Maguire's compound, then finish with #9? I guess I could start in an inconspicuous area of the car, or better yet do the family car first ('98 Malibu) to build up my technique, then proceed to the Camaro.

Thanks-- Terry

Reply to
Terry

I'll try that and see. Too late tonight but after work tomorrow I'll get online and report.

Reply to
SgtSilicon

definitely. Get a scrap fender or use the inside of the trunklid first on the 'bu. My dirt track car has been a great learning experience for bodywork, paintwork and welding.

Lots of water and work lightly...

Reply to
ray

good idea, I'll work inside my trunk first...I used to do wet sanding years ago when I did some fiberglass work on an old Camaro I used to own...I remember that it is real slow work...

Reply to
Terry

Try the stuff the pros use - check out these products

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You have to buy it from a car paint supplier - not the local speed shop. You could email them to find your nearest stockist. Its expensive but the best.

They make a range of different products - your choice depends on how flat your paint is & therefore the degree of abrasiveness you need to bring back the shine & cut out any scratches.

Most bodyshops use powered polishers because of their throughput, but you'll get the same results manually - with more effort! Apply it to a wet good quality polishing cloth - not any old rags!

Good luck!

Reply to
dave thacker

Overpriced repackaged shit!

You can buy 3-M over the counter for less money, without the risk of staining!

Refinish King

PS In 36 years, I've never seen that stuff in any auto body trade magazine, or any of the hundreds of body shops or recon shops that I've visited!

Reply to
Refinish King
1500 $ 200 are made specifically for paint:

Actually, they are only half sheets in the package. you'll need to buy squeegees used to put on nitro-Stan, and a sanding pad, made by Motor guard. it's gray on one side which is hard, and black and soft on the other side.

The paper will wrap around it three times, and overlap on one side. you'll need a bucket full of water, with some dish washing soap in it, and a stream of water, I usually dip a sponge in the bucket and let it drain above the area I'm sanding.

Then sand lightly, and listen, also check often for built op grit and wash the paper. To not make deep scratches. Squeegee off the area every time you stop sanding, you'll see if the scratches are there or not. just light sanding, then stop, squeegee and check until you get the feel.

Then the scratches will be so fine, that you can use the #2 by hand to get a good shine, and the #9 by hand to see yourself!

Refinish King

PS Your 98 Malibu won't have as much paint as the car with the $5,000.00 paint job on it!

Reply to
Refinish King

OK I'm gonna try this, I'll post the 'results', first on my Malibu then I'll proceed to the Camaro--

Thanks for the info

T.

Reply to
Terry

Be careful around the corners and edges, even with 2000 grit paper. It doesn't take very much rubbing to go through the clear coat or color coat when all the sanding is focused on an edge.

Reply to
Bill Hall

My pleasure:

Just remember, the Malibu has a lot less clear on it than the $5000.00 paint job does.

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King

Good advice!

Stay at least 3/8's of an inch away from corners and lines of definition.

Refinish King

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Reply to
Refinish King

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