Hi everyone. I'mm looking at getting a cat back system for my 2001
Z28. After a lot of checking things out, I think I will go with the
SLP "Loudmouth II". Is there any big reason I should NOT do this or
is there a reason I just HAVE to go with brand-x setup instead?
What do you or your friends have? Hooker, SLP LM or LM2, Borla,
Magnaflow? How do you like? Among many other places, I have been to
www.ls1sounds.com so I do know about that.
I decided to not mess with the cat forward in order to avoid any EPA
or engine issues. I was kind of thinking about headers but thought
better of it. The extra performance would be wasted as I'm not a drag
Its a little pricey, but I have a few friends that are running the GMMG.
The loudmouths in my opinion sound a little raspy at higher RPM's. But
that's all up to you. Best would be to find someone local to you if you can
to hear it in person. Personally, I went 3" true duals, xpipe crossover,
over axle and LT headers.
It's price seems to be about in line with the Borla system which is
supposed to be pretty nice too. As to your raspy comment though, was
that the LM or LM2? I have heard that about the LM but the LM2 is
supposed to be fairly different sounding.
There is a possibility that it may have been the LM that I have heard. I
still say go with the GMMG or TD's if you can afford it. But it is all
about personal preference. Best bet I think still is see if there is anyone
local to you that has a set up like you want or at least close and see if
you can get a ride to hear it not only at idle but wide open on the road
too. I assume you are on a few of the message boards?
I suppose before I suggest anything, I'd need to ask you what your plans for
this car are. (i.e. daily driving, street/strip, strip only, autox) I'm
assuming with the fact you bought a strut tower brace your are looking for
more of a street/daily driving/road course car. And congrats on the LM2,
hope it works out well for you.
Hello again. My plans are basically a daily driver but with a little
extra flare perhaps. If I do any thing at the strip it will pretty
much be to see what it's "got" as opposed to trying to destroy others
at the strip. If I were going to get serious at the strip, I would
have to go LT headers, slicks, high stall torque converter,
performance cam, high flow fuel delivery and perhaps even a super
charger and whatever else.
So I guess I'm interested in keeping things fairly stock and
streetable. But pepping it up a bit os okay as long as it doesn't
come with too much cost or trade-offs.
I like to drive it a little hard (not almost going off the road hard
though) on some back roads on the corners. Figured the brace would
help a little, though I know sub frame connectors help more and
compliment the brace.
Not sure what you mean by too much cost (that depends person to person). A
higher stall converter and some LT's would wake up the car a lot as it sits.
Even just going with a higher stall converter is always nice. But if you do
don't forget to run a trans cooler. Have you ever taken the car to a dyno
just to see what she puts to the ground as it sits? Also, don't forget to
look into an upgrade to a 12-bolt or 9" rear. The 10-bolts and the A4 trans
are kind of weak links in the cars.
You can check out my current set up here:
This is a strange thing. I have seen both good and bad regarding the 4L60E.
A lot of the internal parts on these trans do not come hardened or in billet
form from GM. They can go under too much line pressure. The 3-4 clutch
pack can be a little weak in them even under stock power. Some people have
gotten plenty of miles out of these transmission however for a run. One
thing, don't ever manually downshift these transmission on the fly. Then
again that is bad for most automatic transmissions. Some people say that
W.O.T. runs while in OD is bad for them as well. If it ever starts to shift
erratically definitely look have it looked at. Also, sometimes some issues
with the transmission will throw a "check engine" light code.
That is another thing, a hand scanner would be a good investment ($100-$300)
to carry around to read/clear engine codes.
The 10-bolt should be fine for street tires. If you ever throw any stickier
tires on there (BFG Drag Radials or especially MT-ET streets) you would be
living on borrowed time. The autos are a lot gentler on the 10-bolt.
Also, what part of the country/world are you in right now?
Hi. I'm the midwest and am in an area that has hilly terrain. I
never "down" shift the A4 on the fly, but I do sometimes shift it from
over drive to 3rd on the fly if going down a long hill or if driving a
a lot of twisties. Once in 3rd I leave it there until I'm going to be
on normal roads again for some time. Is it harmful to move from OD to
I can't quite say on the downhill part. If the trans is actually in 4th
when you do that it might not live too long doing that. The stock trans
don't really like the line pressure sometimes from the manual downshifting.
If you're going to be in the hills a lot I would definitaley install a
transmission temperature guage. A good trans cooler wouldn't be a bad deal
either. A friend of mine is selling a new B&M one for the 4L60E trans
I blew mine up with just normal (spirited driving). I'm thinking that
it came tuned from SLP with hotter than normal shift points because it
would bark the tires in second with no shifting and little effort...
Do you want polite or do you want sincere?
Then I would have to go with either the line pressure was set too high or
your transmission was too hot while driving sometime. One of the biggest
killers of automatic transmissions is heat. A lot of people disregard this
issue and end up with blown transmissions. Its not just the power that is
being put through it. If you got a standard transmission, you might be
looking at a dead 10-bolt rear then. That's one problem with the 4th gens.
With the A4, you're on a ticking time bomb sometimes with the transmission.
With the M6 you're on a ticking time bomb regarding the rear differential.
Also, did you buy this car new? If you bought it used the transmission
could have already been abused and was just waiting to go. Another
possibility is that someone put in a higher stall converter with too high of
an STR rating. Higher stall converters also add a ton of heat to the
transmission. Many people put in higher stall converters without adding a
transcooler. The 4L60E really does need a decent transcooler stock.
Another thing, the 4L60E is not very strong with W.O.T. runs while in
OD/4th. When I race or go driving hard I'll leave it in 3rd and reserve OD
Okay. I'm interested in learning a bit more about a temp gauge and/or
a trans cooler. I would like some advice on how to go about it. What
to expect to pay. Take it to a tranny shop or dealer or ? I probably
wouldn't need a gauge if I had the cooler. Get an upgraded radiator
at the same time? Any one special?
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