Cat back! Looking for experiences, rumors etc.

Page 1 of 2  
Hi everyone. I'mm looking at getting a cat back system for my 2001 Z28. After a lot of checking things out, I think I will go with the SLP "Loudmouth II". Is there any big reason I should NOT do this or
is there a reason I just HAVE to go with brand-x setup instead?
What do you or your friends have? Hooker, SLP LM or LM2, Borla, Magnaflow? How do you like? Among many other places, I have been to www.ls1sounds.com so I do know about that.
I decided to not mess with the cat forward in order to avoid any EPA or engine issues. I was kind of thinking about headers but thought better of it. The extra performance would be wasted as I'm not a drag racer.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Its a little pricey, but I have a few friends that are running the GMMG. Sounds great.
http://www.gmmginc.net/html/chamberedexhaust.html
The loudmouths in my opinion sound a little raspy at higher RPM's. But that's all up to you. Best would be to find someone local to you if you can to hear it in person. Personally, I went 3" true duals, xpipe crossover, over axle and LT headers.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
It's price seems to be about in line with the Borla system which is supposed to be pretty nice too. As to your raspy comment though, was that the LM or LM2? I have heard that about the LM but the LM2 is supposed to be fairly different sounding.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
There is a possibility that it may have been the LM that I have heard. I still say go with the GMMG or TD's if you can afford it. But it is all about personal preference. Best bet I think still is see if there is anyone local to you that has a set up like you want or at least close and see if you can get a ride to hear it not only at idle but wide open on the road too. I assume you are on a few of the message boards?

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I do not frequent the boards but have visited some a bit. I just ordered my LM2 today, along with a BMR strut tower brace.
I can't friggin wait!

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Awesome, what other mods do you have done to the car?

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Only other mod I have done so far is high flow filter. Opening up the exhaust a bit should help with a nicer sound and also help performance a little.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Are you considering any of the 'free' mods to the LS1?

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Wasn't really at this time. Are you suggesting something?

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I suppose before I suggest anything, I'd need to ask you what your plans for this car are. (i.e. daily driving, street/strip, strip only, autox) I'm assuming with the fact you bought a strut tower brace your are looking for more of a street/daily driving/road course car. And congrats on the LM2, hope it works out well for you.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Hello again. My plans are basically a daily driver but with a little extra flare perhaps. If I do any thing at the strip it will pretty much be to see what it's "got" as opposed to trying to destroy others at the strip. If I were going to get serious at the strip, I would have to go LT headers, slicks, high stall torque converter, performance cam, high flow fuel delivery and perhaps even a super charger and whatever else.
So I guess I'm interested in keeping things fairly stock and streetable. But pepping it up a bit os okay as long as it doesn't come with too much cost or trade-offs.
I like to drive it a little hard (not almost going off the road hard though) on some back roads on the corners. Figured the brace would help a little, though I know sub frame connectors help more and compliment the brace.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Not sure what you mean by too much cost (that depends person to person). A higher stall converter and some LT's would wake up the car a lot as it sits. Even just going with a higher stall converter is always nice. But if you do don't forget to run a trans cooler. Have you ever taken the car to a dyno just to see what she puts to the ground as it sits? Also, don't forget to look into an upgrade to a 12-bolt or 9" rear. The 10-bolts and the A4 trans are kind of weak links in the cars.
You can check out my current set up here: http://www.geocities.com/ snipped-for-privacy@sbcglobal.net/index.html

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
This is a strange thing. I have seen both good and bad regarding the 4L60E. A lot of the internal parts on these trans do not come hardened or in billet form from GM. They can go under too much line pressure. The 3-4 clutch pack can be a little weak in them even under stock power. Some people have gotten plenty of miles out of these transmission however for a run. One thing, don't ever manually downshift these transmission on the fly. Then again that is bad for most automatic transmissions. Some people say that W.O.T. runs while in OD is bad for them as well. If it ever starts to shift erratically definitely look have it looked at. Also, sometimes some issues with the transmission will throw a "check engine" light code.
That is another thing, a hand scanner would be a good investment ($100-$300) to carry around to read/clear engine codes.
The 10-bolt should be fine for street tires. If you ever throw any stickier tires on there (BFG Drag Radials or especially MT-ET streets) you would be living on borrowed time. The autos are a lot gentler on the 10-bolt.
Also, what part of the country/world are you in right now?
wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Hi. I'm the midwest and am in an area that has hilly terrain. I never "down" shift the A4 on the fly, but I do sometimes shift it from over drive to 3rd on the fly if going down a long hill or if driving a a lot of twisties. Once in 3rd I leave it there until I'm going to be on normal roads again for some time. Is it harmful to move from OD to 3rd?

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I can't quite say on the downhill part. If the trans is actually in 4th when you do that it might not live too long doing that. The stock trans don't really like the line pressure sometimes from the manual downshifting. If you're going to be in the hills a lot I would definitaley install a transmission temperature guage. A good trans cooler wouldn't be a bad deal either. A friend of mine is selling a new B&M one for the 4L60E trans actually.
wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I blew mine up with just normal (spirited driving). I'm thinking that it came tuned from SLP with hotter than normal shift points because it would bark the tires in second with no shifting and little effort... -- lab~rat >:-) Do you want polite or do you want sincere?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Line pressure was probably set too high and/or it got too hot. What tires were you running?
puked:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Some hard Daytons. I rue the day I didn't get a standard transmission...

-- lab~rat >:-) Do you want polite or do you want sincere?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
puked:

Then I would have to go with either the line pressure was set too high or your transmission was too hot while driving sometime. One of the biggest killers of automatic transmissions is heat. A lot of people disregard this issue and end up with blown transmissions. Its not just the power that is being put through it. If you got a standard transmission, you might be looking at a dead 10-bolt rear then. That's one problem with the 4th gens. With the A4, you're on a ticking time bomb sometimes with the transmission. With the M6 you're on a ticking time bomb regarding the rear differential.
Also, did you buy this car new? If you bought it used the transmission could have already been abused and was just waiting to go. Another possibility is that someone put in a higher stall converter with too high of an STR rating. Higher stall converters also add a ton of heat to the transmission. Many people put in higher stall converters without adding a transcooler. The 4L60E really does need a decent transcooler stock. Another thing, the 4L60E is not very strong with W.O.T. runs while in OD/4th. When I race or go driving hard I'll leave it in 3rd and reserve OD for cruising.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Okay. I'm interested in learning a bit more about a temp gauge and/or a trans cooler. I would like some advice on how to go about it. What to expect to pay. Take it to a tranny shop or dealer or ? I probably wouldn't need a gauge if I had the cooler. Get an upgraded radiator at the same time? Any one special?

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.