Driveshaft advice, ebay related

Hey guys, So I bought an aluminum driveshaft of ebay and I unpacked it today. Well, one of the U-joint retaining clips wasn't on a cap and the U-joint cap has
worked it's way off and the needle bearings and grease and everything is out. I emailed the seller and asked him if he knew and he replies with "hell no, I'm sorry, either way, you should replace it.. it's dangerous not to." So do I have a case to ask for a reimbursment for a U-joint? I wasn't going to replace it. What do y'all think? Thanks in advance.
-Bruce
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Well,
not
wasn't
If you bought a d/s from a used car you should replace the u-joints with NEW heavy duty parts.You don't know what shape the old parts are in and u-joints are "relatively" inexpensive. There expendable and the old parts were probably left on the d/s because the seller just didn't want to bother taking them off. Its no big deal if you know how to replace them and if you don't now is the time to learn in case you ever break one. So my short answer is (too late?) you bought a d/s. Not a d/s AND u-joints.
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Well,
not
wasn't
Bruce
No offense, but If I had sold you a used Drive shaft, and the U-joints were bad. Well I would not refund your money for the U-Joints or the retainer clips being missing. U-Joints are a wear item.
A aluminum Drive Shaft in good shape for a Third Gen is worth $100, or better. U-joints, pressed in should not cost you more then $50. Any time I buy a used drive shaft I always change the U-joints. Charles BTW:: I also Buy and Sell thru E-bay.
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Considering that the shaft is out I would replace them anyways. Why take the shaft out twice?
On Thu, 08 Apr 2004 04:16:34 GMT, "Bruce Chang"

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How was it advertised? What did you pay? What did the seller state in his/her ad? Was it a good price?
Depending on what the details are (such as the item not being as described), you can file a Squaretrade case with Ebay. It sometimes makes the seller/buyer do what you want.
I've filed a few over the years and turned up the heat on a few people and it's usually worked. I've also gotten my credit card company involved a few times and they've intervened and made the situation right.
Usually, I try to be decent with the person and work it out. When they don't comply or they act defiant/uncooperative, I turn up the heat and it usually works :).
Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 26k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 141k and still going.... '80 T/A project car...
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described),
seller/buyer
it's
times
don't
usually
the description goes like this:
"It time to clean the garage we have collected items over the last year for projects that have been completed so here are the extra items maybe you could benefit from them.
This is an aluminum drive shaft from a late 70?s corvette or late Z28 we stripped for parts but we can?t recall part number # 10085375 measures 42 inches from center to center S/H 18.00"
I won the auction for $97 so I thought i got a pretty good deal. Buying U-joints looks like it's about $13/ea. I think the price of the auction is irrelavent to the topic at hand though. I know how to fight fraud and bad sellers. I've singlehandedly gotten several sellers suspended for fraud.
Okay, so I'm probably one of the only chinese people out there driving a 3rd gen firebird (it's even got a primered hood!) and no one dealing with F-body parts is used to me always wanting the best deal so I just wanted to know if it's out of the question to fight it.
Thanks for your advice guys,
-Bruce
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Bruce Chang wrote:

There's nothing fraudulent about this. No where in the ad does it say it's in perfect condition. Even replacing both u-joints you got a pretty good deal. What's the problem?
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"Bruce Chang" no one dealing with F-body

the reason most people are not use to an if body owner wanting the best deal is because if body owners love their cars.
usually the best deal means lower quality. and if body owners (that are like myself) don't use lower quality no matter the savings.
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damb spell checker turned "f body" into "if body"
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deal
I think you're confusing best deal with being cheap. I'll spend the money when needed but if I don't have to spend the money. A good example is the new ATI procharger complete F-body kit I got for $2200.
-Bruce
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It makes a real difference on things :). Considering a rebuilt driveshaft is fairly cheap, Ebay isn't always the best buy :)
Depending on what it's worth you may have overpaid...
Me personally? I know my prices and what's worth it on Ebay and what's not. I have seen stuff go for MORE used there than I can buy it BRAND new :).
Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 26k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 141k and still going.... '80 T/A project car...
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is
not. I

Yes, I've seen the same.. Similiarly, I looked on ebay for a compact flash card reader. It was going for more than I could purchase it new from newegg with shipping than through eBay without shipping.
For me, it's worth $150 and I got it for under $100. My point was cost of the driveshaft is not related to reparation for the damaged U-joint.
I guess, now the question is, you telling me I overpaid? What's your cost if that's the case?
-Bruce
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Bruce Chang wrote:

What reparation? Nowhere in the description did it say it was perfect, or had new u-joints. This is what I am not understanding.
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That was my original question, if I had a case to claim for a damaged U-joint. Joe wanted to know how much I paid for it as if that had something to do with whether I had a claim.
-Bruce
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Case in point. I bought what were supposed to be Craftsman C clamps off Ebay. I think I won them for $15 or so.
I got them, they are a mixed breed, and rusty. Nothing like what's in the ad and complete junk. I e-mail the seller and he basically tells me I'm beat.
I go on the blower to Squaretrade and tell the seller he's going to be hearing from the Better Business Bureau, the Internet Fraud Division of the FBI, Ebay, Shame on You, etc, etc, etc. etc.
I got a $10 credit the same day and I was able to save the C-clamps and clean most of them up. Some were Jorgensen which are probably a bit better than Sears.
However, it was the principle of the thing. I can guarantee you if you try to screw me it will easily cost you double when my temper flares up. LOL :).
Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 26k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 141k and still going.... '80 T/A project car...
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My neighbor got a completely rebuilt driveshaft for his g/f's Bronco II for $195. And this is a weird GKN designed shaft for which Ford hasn't serviced the parts for years.
Even the parts store couldn't dig up the # and kept saying it was invalid. Sure enough when my neighbor pressed the issue they ordered it, it came in and it was 100% on the money. LOL. I had dug up the part # on my parts computer and knew it to be valid the whole time.
Ford wanted $600 for it.
Yes, the price and ad mean a lot! If the guy was selling it for $5, well you get what you pay for.
The ad is everything. If it's misleading, the guy should eat the part. If it's upfront and you don't ask questions, well then caveat empteur (spelling???)
A used shaft is a $50 item in the junkyard and U joints are $30 at BEST at a parts store.
Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 26k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 141k and still going.... '80 T/A project car...
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forget the u-joints their cheap and should be changed anyway.
I would be more worried about "is the shaft twisted"?
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