Heavy duty "stock" SBC starter?

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On Wed, 18 Aug 2004, Ken R. Dye wrote:


The Delco direct-drive starter is not regarded as a very good design, either, even when brand spanking new from GM.

It is, and it's a much better design than the original direct-drive starter _or_ the aftermarket gear reduction units.
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Daniel J. Stern wrote:

It should be. It's 3x the price of a generic 350 starter and 75% the price of an aftermarket racing starter. But that's the one I'm getting after work (I got a regular one yesterday by accident - had to recheck my part # - the counter guy was useless as usual...)
Ray
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HA ha.. glad I'm not the only one having problems with those guys.. :)
-Geno 1985 Blue Camaro 2.8L w/T-tops 1988 Blue Firebird Formula 5.0L w/T-tops (For sale for $2,200) Still looking for an '82-'84 T/A w/T-tops for parts from one
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Bull biscuits. Everyone buys Delco Remy starters (among other components), including competing OEM car makers.
Their design is among, if not the best in the industry. My '84 Oldsmobile has the original starter after 145,000 miles. Same with my '80 T/A.
Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going.... '91 S10 Blazer 4.3Z
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Daniel J. Stern wrote:

Done. One starter for a 97 one ton big block. Heavy and big, but spins the 350 over like I took the plugs out. It looks like a regular starter, just bigger... maybe it's not the gear reduction one? Anyone have the ACDelco PN for it? It is almost big enough to fit two regular starters in there... I got a stock rebuild to compare to... tiny!
Postmortem on the other starter - the lug that connects the solenoid to the main "drive" of the motor was fubared. Rebuildable... I have an old Buick starter to use as a core... but it never spun the engine over like that... :)
Ray
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Brian wrote:

Phooey. A NASCAR engine has to fire up what, maybe 10 times in its LIFETIME of one week!?!? And even then, you frequently see cars that cannot re-fire during a race and have to be pushed. Weight reduction is far more important than reliability for a NASCAR starter.
I also like Nippondenso starters, but Hitachis are low on my list. The point is that what works for NASCAR doesn't mean SQUAT for a street/strip car or even an amateur strip-only car, which has to start reliably HUNDREDS of times during its lifetime.

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Steve wrote:

I hadn't thought of that when I was thinking racing starter. I'm less worried about 10 pounds of weight reduction than I am about getting it refired. It's an automatic at a dirt track, so a push start is out...
I head to the parts place tomorrow to get a truck starter like Dan recommended. That should do me...
Ray
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If you use a Power Glide transmission TCI has a "Circle-Matic" kits that will make it so you can push start. I do not know if they make the same thing for TH-350 transmission. Charles
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Charles Bendig wrote:

Powerglides are like Vortec heads... in the "not allowed" list. Silly rules. ;)
The silly part is originally it was to keep costs down, but a lot of the stuff on the list is now common and the stuff we have to run isn't even that cheap - I can find TBI intakes and carbs for SBC's at the junkyard but I must run a 2 barrel....but them's the rules. There are places that'll port a 2 barrel manifold for $600. Somehow that's cheaper than an Edelbrock Performer for $99....
Ray
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kits
make
Different places, different rules. Some classes around here run 'Glides. A lot of the guys around here that run cars like yours use a 3 speed Saginaw manual transmission. Then they gear their rear ends any where from 3.42 to 6.12 depending on the track they run at the most.
What you need to do is find good people who will do work like carb building at a reasonable cost for you. Then take them a few cores to rebuild.
Around here a lot of Salvage yard will give you a discount on parts if you put their name on your car. Say around 2 inch tall lettering. That's how we did it when I managed AtoZ Auto Salvage and Towing. We even kept a stock of 2nd gen cars For Sale, and for parts for the guys that ran them. We had about 60 Racers who were on that racer net program, that drove 2nd gen F-bodies. Cars like the 81 Turbo T/A I drug in were sliced up quick. I drug the car in while I was awaiting a title to be mailed from Florida. Motor blew while up here, title was down there. I went out of town for 2 days, came back and both 1/panels were gone as well as the passenger side fender. I should have drug it home and kept the license plates on it, as it was a majority rust free car.
Heck even now I sponsor a Mini-Stock round track car. it's a 86 Cavalier Z-24. With a Iron Head "Bastard" fuelie 2.8 & Automatic. I gave the guy the car, hauled it to him even. I also gave him a second engine for it this year, and spare transmission. Free car, Free replacement motor, free transmission. I had maybe $125 in both, so it was nothing for me to do. The car in question runs at Kil-Kare raceway as the Worden's Towing & Busy Bee Pallet Car. I know I probably should have my name on it, but having it say Worden's got me a few better deals.
Maybe you should hit up some sponsors?
Charles If you need some cores I might be able to sell you some cheep.
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Charles Bendig wrote:

Got a couple of local sponsors. Hoping for more next year. Mostly my comment was that we were not allowed certain parts to keep costs down - but I can buy a ported 2 barrel stock intake for $600!!!!! for 15 more hp. Racers always want to go faster... I checked the rules yesterday - my hood - gone - going to replace it with fiberglass sheeting.
Ray
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My '78 Camaro always suffered from hot start problems. The Battery in the boot never helped, but I have seen articles about adding a remote Solenoid in parallel to assist with this problem. Not sure where though (in old mags).
I have noticed though that my '95 Camaro starter and battery are both much smaller than my older ones, and the seem to cope ok. I Think headers exascerbate the problems though.
HTH

When I had a 305 in my '78 I could get 30 mpg(english) cruising at 90mph no problem. This was with stock cam, headers, 2plane manifold and Holley 4Brl. Rear end was stock 2.73
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Terminal Crazy wrote:

Stock manifolds (rules.) From what I read, the remote solenoid won't help because that's when you turn the key and no click. My problem is when it's hot it just doesn't turn over very fast and ends up killing the battery and a starter that you can't touch because it's almost redhot from trying to turn the motor over.
I'm picking up a truck starter tonight after work. I suspect a combo of a fresh rebuilt HD (truck) stock starter I should be fine - it's a stock engine (under 9.5:1 compression, under .450 lift cam) but it runs at pretty much full throttle for almost 2 hours and gets a bit warm...
As fer welding cable/battery cable - I bought the car with the cabling done - it was like new with good ends... It's BIG (maybe even 1ga?) and I _think_ it's welding cable - but I think that is the least of my worries - it's well attached at both ends (of both the + and -) and it is bigger than any stock battery cable I've ever seen by far. Before I melted down the 305 it spun it over pretty good.
Ray
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Ray:
You might want to check out a Delco starter book (not website). Some of the older books had specs in the back and this may help your cause.
Charles steered you right on basic application. Many Delco catalogs have spec charts for "make it fit by spec" parts.
Batteries are one of these items. Believe it or not, Delco batteries fit rather well in non-GM applications, including Ford. Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going.... '91 S10 Blazer 4.3Z
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snipped-for-privacy@rollingviolation.comnet.org says...

Find an auto parts store that carries "WorldWide" brand starters. They have a lifetime warranty and are remanufactured by AC-Delco.
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Dennis Smith
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On Thu, 19 Aug 2004, Dennis Smith wrote:

...which means you spend your lifetime exchanging dead remanufactured starters under warranty...

AC-Delco does NOT remanufacture starters or anything else. They subcontract it out on a low-bid basis, just like Bosch and Motorcraft and Mopar and everyone else.
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Wrong. AC Delco does not go to the lowest bidder. That's an assumption on your part that is not correct.
Delco marketed reman starters/alternators outlast the spray and pray rebuilt ones by years. They also improve upon original design flaws in the original Remy part.
If you can't rebuild them yourself, then go with a Delco reman.
Where are you getting your data from???? Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going.... '91 S10 Blazer 4.3Z
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dastern@127.0.0.1 says...

How do you pull that much bullshit from your ass?????????
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