Heavy duty "stock" SBC starter?

[a battery cable will]

A welding cable will do likewise, with greater resistance to snapping apart.

Also, there's no kind of twisting other than the kind that occurs on a torsion axis.

Still waiting for a reason to do so. None has been apparent so far.

And yet it's VERY IMPORTANT in your world to use only the cheap production-type battery cables the maker specified.

Interesting.

DS

Reply to
Daniel J. Stern
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I was talking about Category 5 network cable, which is 8 conductor and terminates in RJ-45 ends, but actually, now that I think about it, the same holds true for thin-net or thick-net coaxial. Thick-net wasn't used for patch panels really but I'm sure there may have been some stranded version of it too. As to house wiring, always wire with more capacity than you need. Even better is to also put in some nice conduit like you're talking about, to make upgrades easier. Wish I had that in my older (1950s) house.

Reply to
SgtSilicon

I believe the wire used between the forklift batteries and the charging power supplies were of the very flexible welding variety. Also, the heavy duty electric motors that moved had that type of cable slacked up (or else had that nylon flexitrack stuff with some kind of wiring in it).

Reply to
SgtSilicon

Yeah, I hear ya. Even though I have the nice (for OEM) 500 Watt Monsoon system in my Z28, sometimes it's just more pleasing to take the Ts off and listen to the sounds of the LS1.

On a side note though, I did buy a OEM Delco 12 disc changer on Ebay and installed it myself, for about 1/3 the cost of the price the dealer gets just for the unit. It's funny, GM gets $700 for this OEM changer. For the Corvette I think it costs $1200 (even though I think it is completely functionally equivalent, perhaps even same part as used on F-bodys and probably a lot of other GM vehicles). I saw the things sell on Ebay for like $80 to $100, but I paid $250 for mine because the guy says he took it out of his 1998 Camaro and I wanted to be sure the control signals from the head unit were right on the money. I still bet I could have bought one of the ones that went cheaper though.

Maybe Ian knows what works with what. Hell, my car even had the signal/control cable already run back to the rear changer mount area from the head. I guess GM does this at the factory even if they end up not putting in the changer. I suppose easier to route before everything is carpeted etc.

Reply to
SgtSilicon

As time goes on, the rebuilt High Torque starters become more of a crapshoot...the cast aluminum starter drive housing you get on a rebuild could be 20+ years old and has a high chance of cracking and ruining your weekend.

I'd go with a decent reduction gear starter; some of these allow you to rotate where the starter-motor is mounted which helps for header clearance...

I believe the truck starter mentioned ('97 3/4 ton pickup) is a reduction gear "mini" starter; not to sure about the drive housing construction though.

--Ken

Reply to
Ken R. Dye

I'll know after work. I got a regular starter the first time around - seems in the 3/4 ton world, some are regular, some are hd. I got the right part # - go with a 1 ton big block. Now I just hope I don't have the wrong flywheel on there. (I can't remember if it's the 153 or 168.) Race car night tonight, I'll let you know the results tomorrow. :)

Ray

Reply to
ray

The Delco direct-drive starter is not regarded as a very good design, either, even when brand spanking new from GM.

It is, and it's a much better design than the original direct-drive starter _or_ the aftermarket gear reduction units.

Reply to
Daniel J. Stern

It should be. It's 3x the price of a generic 350 starter and 75% the price of an aftermarket racing starter. But that's the one I'm getting after work (I got a regular one yesterday by accident - had to recheck my part # - the counter guy was useless as usual...)

Ray

Reply to
ray

HA ha.. glad I'm not the only one having problems with those guys.. :)

-Geno

1985 Blue Camaro 2.8L w/T-tops 1988 Blue Firebird Formula 5.0L w/T-tops (For sale for $2,200) Still looking for an '82-'84 T/A w/T-tops for parts from one
Reply to
KITT

Bull biscuits. Everyone buys Delco Remy starters (among other components), including competing OEM car makers.

Their design is among, if not the best in the industry. My '84 Oldsmobile has the original starter after 145,000 miles. Same with my '80 T/A.

Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going.... '91 S10 Blazer 4.3Z

Reply to
Bigjfig

Find an auto parts store that carries "WorldWide" brand starters. They have a lifetime warranty and are remanufactured by AC-Delco.

Reply to
Dennis Smith

Done. One starter for a 97 one ton big block. Heavy and big, but spins the 350 over like I took the plugs out. It looks like a regular starter, just bigger... maybe it's not the gear reduction one? Anyone have the ACDelco PN for it? It is almost big enough to fit two regular starters in there... I got a stock rebuild to compare to... tiny!

Postmortem on the other starter - the lug that connects the solenoid to the main "drive" of the motor was fubared. Rebuildable... I have an old Buick starter to use as a core... but it never spun the engine over like that... :)

Ray

Reply to
Ray

...which means you spend your lifetime exchanging dead remanufactured starters under warranty...

AC-Delco does NOT remanufacture starters or anything else. They subcontract it out on a low-bid basis, just like Bosch and Motorcraft and Mopar and everyone else.

Reply to
Daniel J. Stern

Wrong. AC Delco does not go to the lowest bidder. That's an assumption on your part that is not correct.

Delco marketed reman starters/alternators outlast the spray and pray rebuilt ones by years. They also improve upon original design flaws in the original Remy part.

If you can't rebuild them yourself, then go with a Delco reman.

Where are you getting your data from???? Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going.... '91 S10 Blazer 4.3Z

Reply to
Bigjfig

How do you pull that much bullshit from your ass?????????

Reply to
Dennis Smith

Nope. All thicknet was solid, because the original design required drilling into the cable jacket and down into the center conductor so you could install a vampire tap, when you wanted to plug another machine into it. It needed the rigidity of the outer shield and a solid center conductor.

Amazingly rediculous design it was, definitely came directly out of the head of an electrical engineer with absolutely no experience running cable of any kind in an office building.

Ted

Reply to
Ted Mittelstaedt

No, what I'm saying is that if you graphed both of them you would find the single solid core wire having a higher resistance curve as the current was increased.

There's a point at which the pair of wires is going to have slightly lower resistance than a single wire, because they will not be as hot.

So, the statement "Also 2 cables can flow more current than 1 cable with twice the cross sectional area." is technically true. What is missing is the addition to this statement "as long as the current flow is below the point at which the insulation burns off the cables"

Most good electrical practices today though assume massive de-rating, to the point at which the wires never have any measurable heat. There are exceptions - such as battery starter cables for example. If you disconnect a coil wire and just sit there cranking the starter on and on and on, you will feel the battery starter wire heat up. In extreme examples (such as a stuck starter selonoid) where the starter jams in the on position, the cables will get hot enough to actually catch fire, before the starter's internal windings melt.

Ted

Reply to
Ted Mittelstaedt

I knew I've never seen solid used for patch panels. I know I've never seen thicknet on patch panels. I didn't know that thicknet was only solid, but I had never seen stranded. I remeber the vampire taps, and it makes sense to just use solid for that.

Reply to
SgtSilicon

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