OT: More of a, "What's your thoughts question."

Well,     One of my buddy's is complaining that his oil smells like fuel. I haven't found the time to go and check it out myself, but I'd like to be
armed with some options when I do.
    Here's what I do know.
Make: Ford Model: 1993 Cobra
    Here's what we've done.
1. New BBK Short Exhaust Heads 2. New BBK X-Pipe (Inline Cats/Mufflers)     Good stuff, 2 cats instead of stock 4 3. New MAC Tips. (but it's designed to mate to stock exhaust.) 4. New Upper/Lower Control Arms and Rear Stabilizer Bar. 5. 1" Drop (Those springs were a bitch, tore up two compressors.) 6. New Upper Intake (Don't recall manufacturer) 7. Cold Air Induction. 8. New Plug Wires 9. New Fuel Pressure Regulator (inline w/guage) 10. New Valve Covers and Rockers. 11. Pro 5.0 Shifter
    I don't think the Piston Rings are blown, he's still got good compression and no loss of power. The exhaust does smell a bit like unspent fuel. So, my thought is too rich.
    So maybe the Regulator is shot?
Ideas?
    Martin     '01 Formula -    MTI Air Box Lid, K&N Filter, Hurst-6,             SLP Cold Air Induction & Smooth Intake Bellow             Corsa Catback w/Premium Tips     '83 V45 Magna
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GLK9MM wrote:

Kinda sad that I've spent more time on his Ford than I have on my Pontiac. <chuckle>
I also think he wound up putting the stock valve covers back on since the new covers were getting tapped by the rockers. Didn't damage the rockers or the rods as far as I know. Did a pretty good job on the aluminum covers. (Obviously, I was not there when he did the covers or I'd have check for proper clearance.)
    Martin     '01 Formula -    MTI Air Box Lid, K&N Filter, Hurst-6,             SLP Cold Air Induction & Smooth Intake Bellow             Corsa Catback w/Premium Tips     '83 V45 Magna
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Spending all your time on everyone else's stuff is the story when your a mechanic. I haven't touched one of my personal project cars in over 3 months.
Compression tests are good, but have you done a leak down test? Fuel could be getting past the rings when the engine is shut off.
On the fuel pressure regulator, did it come with any sort of testing instructions? Is it adjustable?
Has the ECM been checkedto make sure it is getting the proper readings? If it is a Dual 02 sensor car, with a pre-cat & after cat 02 sensors, it might be read on sensor lean. This would cause the computer to richen the mixture ratios. Charles
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Charles Bendig wrote:

Good questions Charles.
Have not done a leak down test yet, nope.
The regulator is adjustable, aye.
Only 2 O2 sensors immediately after the heads. The EGR is a crap design too, it is after the first set of cats and before the second set. (No second set on the after market pipes obviously.) EGR really shouldn't matter, but just thought I'd point out the crap Ford design. The O2 sensors might be bad for that matter. They're not terribly fragile, and we were careful; but...ye' never know.
Have not checked the ECM yet. That is a good idea! Dunno why I didn't think of that and a reader should be nice and cheap for the '93.
    Martin     '01 Formula -    MTI Air Box Lid, K&N Filter, Hurst-6,             SLP Cold Air Induction & Smooth Intake Bellow             Corsa Catback w/Premium Tips     '83 V45 Magna
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Martin,
Save your money. Don't buy a tester. A piece of wire used as a jumper and the "Check Engine" light is all you need.
http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html There are other sites as well.
Or just google EEC-IV code check. Pretty simple. I've done it before when My CEL light was on my 5.0. Bad EGR. Read the code right off the dashboard.
Jimmy

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That's the backwoods, ghetto way to do it. When, of course, Autozone will scan it for free if you're too cheap to buy a scanner. LOL.
If you're going to play, you have to play. If you have Ford, you're going to play a long time--under the hood. Ford's emissions systems are the worst out there for complexity and longevity.
Martin: When you pulled the hose off the fuel pressure regulator, was there any fuel in it? If so, the regulator is shot.
I agree with the rest of what Charles stated. Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going....
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Bah. That's the 5 minutes, save your money and do it at home and nobody else needs to get involved way.
Had my Mustang 15 years with no problems and same for my 5 year old camaro, no problems.
As for Fords, Chevys etc. I've never had a problem with any of my cars, Chevy or Ford. Take care of your belonings and they'll take care of you.

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You're right, Ford will take care of ya :).
A lot of time under the hood, or a big repair bill, depending on what you know :). Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going....
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One thing I forgot to mention before is fuel injector o-rings. They go bad, and cause the cylinders to flood out slowly. Always lube them up with assembly lube or they will rip apart.
On the 5.0 the EGR ports are in the back of the heads, and often the ERG pipes get clogged. The tubes going down to the cats are the A.I.R. tubes. They usually also get carboned up pretty bad, or rust apart there on those engines.
If your buddy wants some real speed for his Cobra, I have a 1992 Crown Vic with the 5.8 Police Engine. $300 for the engine, wiring harness, ECM. The car is going to be a demolition derby car, with a all Chevy drive line (350, TH-350, 77-90 full size wagon rear end).
Im currently selling 4 302 fuel injected 88 up engines, 2 460's, a 429, and a fuel injected 2.3 ford, a 1967 Chevy Bel-Air station wagon with a 70 350, a 72 Monte Carlo with a 0.030 over 350, a chevy 383 as well as other goodies. Charles
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