Re: Cost of replacing a engine (?)



Replacing the engine does not guarantee that you won't still have an overheating problem.
Just engine and labor when I changed my engine, it took me about 4 hours myself to get everything disconnected from the engine so it was ready to be pulled. Then took my friend and I another 4 hours to pull the engine, finish pulling anything else that needed to come off and get it to the machine shop. Another 4-8 hours to get everything back in and installed and running again. The rebuilt engine was $400, my cost and my 4 hours plus 8 hours of my and my friend's time and then another 4-8 hours, that's 16 hours on the low side and that's with basic hand tools, no pneumatic anything. I'd say an average mechanic could do it in about 12 hours with good tools and all the right equipment. That'd be $50 on the low side. That's anohter $600. AFAIK, the 1995's still had LT1's so that's gonna cost you more than my 305 TPI. I'd say you're looking at close to $1500 when it's all said and done if you're lucky.
I'd take your car to someone else and see if they can find the problem. Not another dealer.
-Bruce
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I would tend to agree as well... dealers like replacing stuff... it is the new world of the automotive industry... dont fix it swap it... and at $60+ hr it is probably cheaper for the consumer (maybe not the environment - course... hard to say much about the environment with my Z28 and Yukon...) to usually swap parts.
When I was doing my Z28 with a 350 I could get a rebuild block for consumer price of about $500 and like noted below... probably about $1500 to get one rebuilt with new hoses/belts/fluids assuming they can reuse some of the parts. I do not recall what the crate cost was from Chev but to put a complete engine in with 'typical' components (ie not all chromed up) was around $5000 at the dealer. I had a budget of 5K for my whole rebuild... not just the engine... so I went with the rebuild... added some better internals and some polishing while in there and well chrome is only $30 more the stock... and poof the price jumps up again but now it is 'just as good' and a bit more showy with the improved power.
although swapping the engine (and while they are in there they will likely want to do the rad and hoses...) will likely resolve the problem (because everything will be new!) I would agree that you need a second opinion.

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"" wrote:
> > > So, my car is a 1995 Pontiac Trans Am, V8, 5.7 L, 134,000 > mi, 6-speed. > > You may have seen an earlier post from me about the fact > that my car > > overheats. Well, it's been at the dealership, and all they > can say is > > that they don't know how to make it stop overheating. > > > > Anyway, I'm thinking I'll either get rid of my car and trade > old > > problems for new problems, OR I'll entirely replace its > engine. I'll > > be honest: I have NO IDEA what I'm getting into. But, I'm > willing to > > learn. > > > > The first thing I need to know is: how much does it cost to > replace an > > engine? > > > > TIA > > > > Replacing the engine does not guarantee that you won't still > have an > overheating problem. > > Just engine and labor when I changed my engine, it took me > about 4 hours > myself to get everything disconnected from the engine so it > was ready to be > pulled. Then took my friend and I another 4 hours to pull the > engine, > finish pulling anything else that needed to come off and get > it to the > machine shop. Another 4-8 hours to get everything back in and > installed and > running again. The rebuilt engine was $400, my cost and my 4 > hours plus 8 > hours of my and my friend's time and then another 4-8 hours, > that's 16 hours > on the low side and that's with basic hand tools, no pneumatic > anything. > I'd say an average mechanic could do it in about 12 hours with > good tools > and all the right equipment. That'd be $50 on the low side. > That's anohter > $600. AFAIK, the 1995's still had LT1's so that's gonna cost > you more than > my 305 TPI. I'd say you're looking at close to $1500 when > it's all said and > done if you're lucky. > > I'd take your car to someone else and see if they can find the > problem. Not > another dealer. > > -Bruce
Bruce, thanks for the estimate.
If replacing the engine won’t solve the overheating problem, then what could?
Why do you say NOT to take the car to another dealer?
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Because it's a 95 and I assume it's not under warranty. There's no reason you should take it to the dealer unless that's the last hope. Find a decent independent mechanic (ask your friends where they take their cars) and see if they can fix it. You're going to replace an engine hoping that it will solve your overheating engine on the hopes that that will solve the problem? If you have the money to throw at it, then be my guest. Heck, bring it by my house, I'll swap the engine for that amount of money but don't ask me to guarantee that your overheating problem will be solved.
I just read your previous post.
Your mechanic checked the radiator for leaks and blockages and didn't find one? How'd he check for blockages? Has the radiator been rodded out? If not, then there's nothing that says it's transfering heat as well as it can.
He looked at the water pump and said it seemed fine? How exactly did he come to that conclusion? He just knows? It's not leaking so it's fine?
Cooling jackets? "Water pump to the timing chain output"? And the heater core is causing the car to overheat? =o/ I think it's DEFINITELY time to get a second opinion.
I would also lay off calling your T/A a trannsy. Sounds like some kind of hermaphradite wannabe.
Did you ever use "coolant stop leak" on your car? It's possible you've coated the insides of your engine with stop leak and it can't conduct heat well enough anymore. You might also try back flushing your cooling system.
-Bruce
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Bruce is right, replacing the engine doesn't gaurantee a cooling fix... especially if the rad is the problem. They don't swap rads when they swap out engines..
If you've got that kind of money to spend, and you don't have coolant spewing out of a cracked block or warped header, replace the rad and water pump. yeah, it might cost you about 2 or 3 hundred, but a lot less than 1500. Hell, with the money left over, replace the fan, relay, and sensor and you can still go buy 4 new tires, brake pads and shoes, chrome exhaust tips, an oil change, a full tank of gas, and take some nice person out to a dinner and a movie. :) This isn't exact.... I estimated the tank of gas in at today's price. Tomorrow you might only be able to buy 1/2 a tank.
But hey, this is just my POV.....
But also I agree you should get away from the dealership. They really don't want to look at your old car, they don't make any real money off you so they physically cringe when they see you coming. Dealers these days like brand-new stuff they can plug their computers into and do what it tells them to do. Just like kids in school using calculators can't add 5 and 5 without the keypad.... or their fingers. You need to find a "good ole guy" who has a shop on his property that can't fit you in for a week or two 'cause he's so busy. He's busy because he's GOOD. If someone can get you right in, there's a reason.
Anyway, good luck.
-Meriius '89 Firebird Coupe (red) 2.8V6 MPFI
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LiMa wrote:

Do the fans work? Is the rad plugged? a 95 TA has a teeny gap between the AC and the rad and I've heard of it being totally plugged with road crap like plastic bags. Is the water pump shot? Coolant leak? Thermostat? There's like 25 things to check before you start pulling engines and disposing of them... is the front air dam broken off?
Ray
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