Re: Holley Cruising Lean Out: Stumped...

Eugene, Nope, the distro takeoff's connected to the top of the front carb bowl. I have a dial-back timing light and checked it all from below idle up to

3500rpm; looked good. The distributor's a Mallory Comp9000 Unilite with an MSD coil and Accel wires. Drink
Where is your distributer vacuum connected to? I accidentally (read > stupidly) connected the vacuum advance to manifold vacuum rather than the > carb pre butterfly outlet. It killed the engine response like yours. > > Have you checked your ignition timing at idle (about 8 degrees) then up to > 3000 rpm to see what the advance is doing - should be about 30 deg total > advance or so? > > My rule in troubleshooting - if it looks like a carb problem: check the > ignition system. If it looks like an ignition problem: check the carb. > Works 90% of the time. > > You never said if you have a HEI distributer or points. If it's points > check > the gap. > > James Dr> >> Hi Guys, >> Got a Holley 650 double-pumper on "Dad's hotrod" with some probs >> tuning. >> Upon depression of the throttle, my fuel/air ratio gauge shows that the >> mixture goes way lean and the engine goes into lean misfire and dropped >> power. Eventually it richens back up as the RPMs slowly increase. Not >> talking about the accelerator pump, just giving it a little more gas >> while >> driving. >> Bought the carb from my machinist in the original box in like-new >> (visually) condition. Here's what's new and ruled out: high-volume fuel >> pump, fuel filter, fuel regulator and pressure gauge, float needles & >> seats, >> jets (just to be sure), 6.5" power valve (like the original). both >> squirters appear to pump fine but the problem occurs when you slowly roll >> into the throttle and it happens really quick (very throttle sensitive). >> It's a moderate, street performance SB Chevy that makes about 10.5" >> vacuum >> at idle. I know the PV should move up to 8.5" but rolling into heavy >> acceleration (vacuum below PV opening point) doesn't overcome the lean >> condition either. >> Two last things are that idle mixture is pretty un-responsive to idle >> mixture screws, even when idle speed is as low as the engine will >> reliably >> rev. Second, main jets were very, very rich at stock 67's (primary) and >> still a tad on the rich side with 65's. >> Dirty passage somewhere? Higher vacuum power valve needed and drill >> the >> PVCR's? I'm a little stumped. >> Best Regards, >> Drink >> >> '87 TransAm (No computer controls) >> Holley 650cfm double-pumper >> Victor Jr. single plane >> 186 heads, fully ported with 2.02 valves >> 218/228 roller cam >> 1.6 magnum rockers >> 10:1 KB pistons >> Mallory Comp9000 distributor >> Hooker SuperComp headers >> 3.73 gears > > -- > Eugene Blanchard >
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James Drinkwater
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I'm not positive - but I don't think he meant the idle screws were not working. What he was saying is that adjusting the idle screws has no effect on the lean response under very light acceleration. He did say at one one point: "I can turn in the idle mixture screws a 1/2 turn or more until it makes a difference and the revs drop off hard"

So it looks like the idle circuit is working it just doesn't have any effect on the problem of the mixture going lean under light load, which is normal.

-jim

Reply to
jim

The carb's a 650cfm double-pumper ser# 4777 which the PAW catalog lists as a "STREET/STRIP Series Carb". I wouldn't call it a race carb exactly but understand that some Holleys use more jet and less PV flow (through smaller Power Valve Channel Restrictors PVCR) which can account for less mileage and more performance. I replaced the primary jets just in case someone drilled the originals. Everything is stamped with original specs for the carb. The idle mixture issue was included in case it sounds related to someone but should have no noticeable effect at cruise since you're already beyond the transition slots and relying on jets with the PV for enrichment. All idle adjustment was referenced at idle only. The idle screws appear fine. If there was some gum in the carb, it should've loosened up over the past

5,000 miles with a clean tank, running clean fuel through a new filter with carb/injector cleaner additive on top of all this, right? I can throw in the towel and tear the carb to pieces but I'd like to explore tuning first. Is there a way to check if some passages are clogged (blow through idle screw holes, etc.) without removing the carb completely? Drink

"jim" wrote in message news:1171886053 snipped-for-privacy@sp6iad.superfeed.net...

Reply to
James Drinkwater

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