spin the wheels ?

DON'T DO THIS! You'll most likely break the trans. What are the gears in the rear diff? Buy a high stall torque converter.

I have heard that before - but also didnt know if it would damage the torque converter ?

Rich

so its not like dumping the clutch then ?

I dont know what's in the diff

and I dont know what a high stall torque converter is !

I just thought with all that power I should be able to spin the wheels if I felt the need !

I have never owned an automatic so didnt know what you can do.

Rich

You only have to do it for a second or so..

BDK

Check if the catalytic converter is plugged. My 79 T/A was barely able to chirp the tires due to it being nearly plugged solid. I disconnected the exhaust, laid 50' of rubber and went and a totally new exhaust put on it the next day.

BDK

No Cat - looks like a diy exhaust with large cherry bombs.

With the tyres being nearly 12" accross , am I expecting too much ?

Rich

It should chirp the tyres with no problem I've got a 3.4 v6 fourth gen fitted with 245's and have trouble not spinning them up. What happens when it's damp and you put it in drive and floor it if it's still not doing anything would be inclined to get the gearbox checked as something doesn't sound right.

Clive

P.S. I am also in the UK

Do you know what the rear axle ratio is? If it's a 2.xx ratio posi then it's going to be hard to light up the tires. If you really want to do it, I'd power brake it instead of neutral drops. I exploded the sun gears or planetaries or whatever all that stuff in a TH400 is called in a 74 Grand Am with a 180 hp 400 doing a neutral drop. Either way if you do it too much, something will let loose.

Dave

In the wet its easy to loose the back end !

I am in coventry, where are you ?

I joined the local AAC but they dont have tech knoledge :-( - they just like american cars !

I haven't really tried to sort the problem , I got the car in october and its too cold to work on at the moment !

When it's warm I will do the basic tune up etc - see if I can work out the carb (no manual).

Its got no heater fitted at the moment, so I only use it on the rare times we get a nice sunny day !

Rich

Gotta be a kid...I remember those days though.

Don't rule out the fact that you may have good tires. Hard compound (expensive name brand) tires will squeal everytime you leave a stop sign. The best tires for acceleration are cheap tires. They are always soft compound tires that provide plenty of grip. If you want to impress your friends by leaving big smoking black stripes, get "high mileage" (high treadwear rating) tires. If you want to leave the line quick and win races get cheap tires (lower treadwear rating).

Back in 76 I wanted to smoke the tires. Today I want all the traction I can get. ;^)

Dave

Hi Rich

I'm down in N.Devon.

Can I suggest point your browser at

and join the forum (doesn't cost anything) there are lots of very knowledgeable guys on there all in the UK. There are at least 2 on there who have probably forgotten more about these cars than some of us will ever learn. If you like what you find there it's a cheap national club to join.

I'm not that old yet..

BDK

I had a 2002 Ford F150 6cyl 4x4 with Limited slip. When it was new it was easy to light-em up but then started dogging around 28k miles I got so pissed I would literally floor it till the governer would kick in then slam it into drive I did this at least once a week sometimes more and after two years of this the transfer case, transmission and rear-end never gave me any greif. I sold the truck and as far as I know the new owner has had no problems....

one more from me My '86 WS6 T/A Used to let go all the time I lowered it with Eibach sportline springs put Koni adjustables on the rear all polyurethane mounts and bushings including tranny and torque arm. The car will only let go now if I come to a complete stop turn the wheel all the way brakestand it and let off. the the car will spin. and thats with dyno'ed

I'll pass on some testing we did on the T/A this week. The converter is flashing way too low but I figured a couple of runs would give us an idea of how the car is running. Right before the third pass I realized the Cal Tracs were unloaded so I ran them down to just above touching by hand and sent the car down the road. My buddy went down the road and turned the car around. With a blown modulator, he left it in drive and nailed it off the line at about half throttle. The BFG T/A radials blew up in smoke but then they hooked on the rough road. Front end came up, rear planted and the car took off. The 1-2 shift is pretty violent and the car got a bit sideways but he stayed in it and spun to 5k soooo fast it was time to let off and park the car. I can't believe it hooked on a set of Flintstone tires but the engine seems to be running great. The converter is going back to the vendor to be adjusted tomorrow, I need to order a modulator valve, swap out the Hemi Super Turbos for Ultra flows, install turndowns on the cutouts, fix a leak on the rear end and the car should be ready to go to the track. The spool is a PITA but it came with the 9 inch so I think I'm going to swap it out for a posi unit.

Dave(spinning is for the burnout box)

An Update...

Today I changed the plugs. I can now floor the gas, and the wheels spin

Only for a short time, but its enough for now. I also look at the contact points, and ajusted them a bit. I noticed the vac advance springs are strong. When I suck on the tube they dont move.

So I am guessing either the dizzy needs an overhaul or the vac advance needs replacing.

Anyone now if the advance should move when you suck on the tube ?

Also - when reved hard, the second set of barrels on the holley start to open just as the engine wont rev any faster. I think its the contact point gap ? But I was wondering if there ar any good web sites on seting up and ajusting holley carbs. And how to identify them ?

Tanks Rich