Tube Connector broke

Under my thermostat is a small opening where a threaded connector (like this one:

formatting link
) is connected. I was recentlyin a collision with a curb, and the screw broke off with the threads stillin the hole. I went to Autozone, Advanced Auto Parts, Napa Auto Parts, HomeDepot, Lowes, Ajax, and Sears, and no one had an easy-out that would evenwork on a piece this big, let alone work on a hollow screw. Any suggestionson how to back out the left over metal so I can put a new part in? Thanks.-Ben

Reply to
FSUguy
Loading thread data ...

A couple ideas off the top of my head.

A sharp chisel and a hammer.. you might be able to back it out.. If not that, you could drill it out.

-Bruce

Reply to
Bruce Chang

You aren't going to like this. ;^)

I had a similar problem with an aluminum intake. After trying a lot of methods that all failed, I used a sawsall. The blade was too tall to fit so I ground down the top of the blade to half of it's original height. Then I made 4 cuts at 90 degrees that just barely got into the threads of the water port (take your time here). With the cuts finished, I used a small chisel and hammer to peel each section inward and pulled them out. The threads were still in good shape so I vacuumed out as much of the metal dust as possible and used telfon tape on the new fitting. It hasn't leaked in almost 3 years.

YMMV

Dave

Reply to
poncho462

Hate to disagree with the others, but there are a couple of pretty simple ways to do it. One would be if you can find a reverse-thread tap and bolt of the right size... The other, simpler method would be to tap threads and put a bolt in there with some JB weld on it. Leave it overnight and there you go.

The Vampire, "Muffin Man"

Reply to
The Vampire Muffin Man

Well, the reverse-thread (easyouts) that I looked at at Lowes and Sears were too small. Where would I find one big enough? And then the tapping, shouldn't I remove the leftover metal before I retap? And if I removed the metal, wouldn't I not need to retap?

-Ben

Reply to
FSUguy

Really wouldn't need to tap the fitting all the way through, so no metal should wind up where it shouldn't be, unless the fitting is vertical. A little heavy grease should keep metal shavings on the tap instead of letting them fall in, in any case. A little brake cleaner before threading the bolt with the JB weld on it, of course. Shouldn't be any need to re-tap the part that the fitting goes into after you remove the end of the old fitting..

The Vampire, "Muffin Man"

Reply to
The Vampire Muffin Man

If this is soft pot metal (aluminum colored) and not brass, an easy-out is not going to work. GM also uses thread locker on those fittings. As someone else mentioned, the saw blade trick works pretty well. Cut it four ways and use a chisel. Since I have the correct size tap, I like to use a carbide bit on a air die grinder to grind it out. Takes only a couple minutes.

Reply to
David McNally

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.