Wanted: Distribution Valve for '67 Camaro w. Drum Brakes

My "distribution valve" under the master cyclinder doesn't seem to work. I found if I open the front or rear, I loose all breaking, no matter how many times I pump. My brakes are manual drum all the way
around. I've tried replacing the master cylinder (it's dual resevoir of course), wheel cylinders, etc. No leaks. California Car.
If anybody has one they want to sell (maybe someonewho converted to disc?) please email me and let me know how much you'd want for it.
Thanks! David ( snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com) (Michigan - north west of Detroit)
P.S. Email address is just one I created long ago for spam. There is no Richard. I just haven't gotten around to creating a new one. This is my first newsgroup posting.
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Even though you have separate systems for the front and rear, it is normal for your pedal to go to the floor if either system is opened up. That in itself doesn't mean anything is wrong with your distribution block. - Gary

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Interesting. I'm at a lost to understand. Seems like that's the idea, that if I lost front or rear brakes that the other would still work.
But even after being bled, the brake pedal seems very low (almost to the floor). I've tried two new master cylinders, Thoroughly bench bled the Master Cylinder, blead the lines (both 2 person and one person with a vacuum gun), and there are no leaks anywhere (not even at the wheel cylinders). And I think I put new wheel cylinders on in the last couple years. If I press a second time the brake pedal comes up a little higher (enough to stop me from rearending the car that panic stopped in front of me). But if I plug the right front hydraulic line (where it leaves the distribution block) then the peddal comes WAY up where it should be (I haven't tried plugging front left because I don't have the larger size plug for it).
I've ordered new front wheel cylinders, hoses, and (pre-bent) lines out of despiration (should be here by Tuesday). But all the existing ones look to be in good condition. Suspicious though that the two front wheel cylinders seem to have two different size bleeder screws. I think one takes a 3/16 wrench and the other 5/16. Not sure the screw itself is different, just the hex. Anyway, will replace with two wheel cylinders from same place see what happens.
Thanks for your reply and if you have any other comments.
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If the brakes have been bled sufficiently to remove all air from the system then my next best guess is that the self adjusters aren't adjusted properly, that could cause a low pedal.
-Bruce
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I think the technical term is proportioning valve.
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Actually, it's combination valve from what I remember. Proportioning valve is an industry-wide term that's evolved from it, but it's not how it's known in the parts books.
In the same respect, GM still calls an alternator a generator, or in some literature a Delcotron, which is the Delco Remy version of the unit. Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 26k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 141k and still going.... '80 T/A project car...
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I believe it's called a distribution valve for Drum brakes (x4). I believe it's called a proportioning valve if there are disc brakes in the system where you want more pressure initially applied to one end (derived from the word "portioning" I presume).
I'm not an authority but the articles I've read on converting drum brakes to disc brakes talk about replacing the "distribution valve" with a "proportioning valve". And articles that aren't specific to disc/drum, us a combined reference of "distribution/proportioning valve".
Thanks.
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