Will I trash my fuel injectors if I do this?

Page 1 of 2  
To all,
I'm having a low rpm missing/accel surging problem with my 94 Z28 with 135k. I have replaced the opti, plugs and wires. I am now thinking that I have a fuel injector problem. I want to do a balance test.
I have a power supply capable of supplying the proper voltage and current, but won't pulse the injector.
I am worried that the injector cannot take 100% duty cycle long enough to get a pressure reading without frying. Maybe 10 secs would be enough to read the guage.
Am I fooling myself thinking that I can do this without frying the injector?
Will I get a proper reading?
Should I bite the bullet and take it to the mechanic to do this test?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
you've replaced the entire optispark, plugs, and wires..... but you haven't replaced your coil pack?? i would definately try replacing your coil pack before you mess with the injectors. MSD and Moroso sells a direct replacement high performance coil for your car. give it a shot.
jack

--
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com ).
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Sorry, forgot to list the coil and ECM in my grocery list. Got Oil in the Opti and fried the whole system. It's all new electrically.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
hmmmmm.... checked the fuel pressure or regulator?? anyways, heres what i would do. i would go ahead and do the test. if you do happen to fry the injectors then you have an excuse to go ahead and buy some bigger injectors like maybe some 28 or 30lb injectors. you can just about find them all day long on ebay for a really good price. or you can swallow your pride and take it to the mechanics shop =( keep us posted.
jack

--
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com ).
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Jack Conley wrote:

Damn...beat me to it. Was going to suggest hooking fuel pressure gauge up to shroder valve and checking fuel pressure. (Also might consider compression testing.)
--
Martin
'01 Formula - MTI Air Box Lid, K&N Filter, Hurst-6,
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

SchRODER? SchRADER?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
OTC makes a power supply, that pulses at three different rates. I think the cost is 450.00. I'd buy that before toasting the injectors.
The problem would be most likely a leaking injector, not a dead one, because a dead or intermittently firing injector would cause a miss. look towards your fuel pressure bleeding off in a given period of time, like 24 hours, also look at the Throttle Position Sensor as a possibility in your case.
Refinish King

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
why would you spend $450 on a tool to test the injectors for just a one time use when you can upgrade and replace the injectors for the same price if not and probably cheaper.... just my 2 cents.... oh you know what else, i just remembered this..... in my 95 LT1 Vette i had a proble with it surging one time. it ran like shit and i didn't know what to do. first diagnosis i did was use a paper clip to short out the diagnostics port under the dash and shoot the trouble codes on my dash. OBD1 stands for on board diagnostics 1 so YOU can run a simple diagnostic scan without going to a shop. i had to do a little research on how the papler clip trick worked for my car (probably different for your) but all i had to do was put one end of the paper clip into like hole #4 and the other in #12 or something like that to get my trouble codes to appear on the dash. anyway, it turned out to be a falty coolant temperature sensor. apparrantly, if the coolant sensor is disconnected the car runs like crap. i would look into this as a problem as well. when i was having this problem, the car would jerk like it had a miss from hell... something so simple to cause so much trouble. either get a trouble code reader or find out how to do it yourself with a paperclip. why didn't i think of this before??
jack

--
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com ).
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Who would pay $450 for a tester? Most Professional repair people. One of my Next major purchases is going to be a used Snap-On MT2500. Probably in the $500 to $700. New they start off around $2000.
My Business Partner has a OBD-1 OTC Pathfinder 2000. You just don't understand what your missing with your paper clip, and flashing SES light. OBD-1 does more then just tell you their is a problem and what circut has it. It will give you read outs from the sensors, as the ECM reads them. The data from it can help you find the problem, instead of making wild guesses as to whats wrong.
But be my guest, keep using your paper clip. Charles
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I made a typo anyway!
the injector tester is about $50.00!
Another reason to shove this keyboard up someone's ass!
It doesn't send out a strong enough signal.
I should have bought the Microsoft!
Refinish King

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Charles, a guy trying to fix is own car isn't a professional who is going to invest all that cash in equipment. Paying $450 for a tool that is needed 1 time is a waste. And certainly buying a scanner that starts at $2,000 new when you only occasionally work on your own car is equally wasteful. So yeah, for a pro who will get lots of use it's probably a good idea, but clearly that wasn't his situation. Probably a $300 scanning tool is better than a paper clip, but that isn't to say the paper clip thing is completely worthless.
On Sat, 12 Jun 2004 05:00:36 GMT, "Charles Bendig"

** To email a reply, please remove everything up to and including the underscore in my email reply header.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
SgtSilicon spilled my beer when they jumped on the table and proclaimed in

If it's OBDII, you really don't want to use a paperclip. :)
Joe's suggestion about renting the scanner is probably the best one, IMO.
NOI
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
GLK9MM spilled my beer when they jumped on the table and proclaimed in

You can't. :)

Agreed...
NOI
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

You know, I happen to own a Ford. A 1985 Ranger 4x4 (2.3-Fuel Injected/5-speed/front lock-outs/15 inch ARE wheels/30x9.50x15 tires. Got her at a dealer auction for $75, including the auction fee. Has a dead fuel pump, and a bad clutch. Destin to live again with a body lift, as well as larger tires, maybe 33x10.50x15's.
Charles Not your average Ford Owner.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I have an 85 Ranger 4X4 2.8:
I use it to beat the shit out of in the winter and have had it for 6 years or more. My friend toasted the clutch last year, when we pulled my motorhome out of the alley, so I could junk it and keep the local police happy.
There's a lot to be said for working with the local police, when you have a bunch of flatulating sphincters for neighbors. The police seem to side with me more!
But anyway, even with the toasted clutch, I plow, I beat the shit out of it, and even when it's 4 quarts low on oil, I never hear a knock!
But, it's still a F.O.R.D.!
Refinish King

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If you decide to get rid of it, I would be interested in the plow.
Mine is so rusty the floor pans are gone. I orginally bought it for the wheels, but then decided it would make a good play toy for going Off-Roading in. Heck I have everything but a used fuel pump laying around, including a used clutch out of a 79 Mustange that had a 2.3. I doubt Ill even sand the rust down where it is thru the primer. Unless I DP-90 it, then spray bomb it. Which means touch up's can be done in any parking lot (hehe).
I recently bought a rolled over S-10 Extended Cab to be my "Nice" 4x4. Which Ill trash, but then worry about spiffin up.
Good thing about Rangers is you don't feel bad when you trash one off roading. Same with the Nissan Pick-up that I used to tough truck. Charles
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
This one has nice floors:
and the box only needs wheel arch panels. So this will be my custom wrecker, when I get an F450 4WD frame, another box to extend this box and make a wheel lift and a boom.
So it ought to be a fun project, I found an F450 PSD 2WD, that needs a tranny, so that might be a start, now to see when the building project can get stated and finished, or just lease/
Refinish King

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Really the best way to go with a Cab and Chassis is to by a used Wrecker Bed, or a new one. Add on wheel lifts often don't work as well as ones made to work with a wrecker bed. Slide in booms are like using an old Homles 440 bed (I started out on 440's and 480's). The best boom truck bed I have ever operated was a Jerr-Dan. Nice controlls, excellant boom, wheel lift controlls on the bed, unlike vulcan beds.
On something like a Ranger, if you try to tow something wide, long or heavy you will find the truck all over the road. Like a S-10 they just don't have the weight to them to pull.
Something else to watch out for is rear ends. F-Super Duty's and F-450's kill them. If the gear set doesn't go out, it's usually the drivers side axle & axle tube that do. Around here you can hardly find a rear end for one, and their are alot of them out here. About half or more of the 90 up light duty wreckers around here are either F-Super Duty's or F-450's. Charles
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

My point was any ProWrencher will go out and spend $450 on a tool he/she needs. Further more, if you need something tested and do not have the proper tools. Try to rent or barrow them. If that is not an option, pay someone to test said item for you.
I met a person last year who owns a Snap-On MT2500. This guy does not work on cars for a living. He makes his living off of hauling & installing Hot Tubs/Spa's. His side line work is lawn service for commercial reality companies. He does not make a living from cars, yet he likes working on and around them.
He knows how to use his scanner, and has the portible printer for it. He charges $25 per hour to come to you, Hook up and test. That is pretty cheep. Doesn't matter if your a shop or not. Heck in most cases you couldn't rent a scanner for that, let alone get aquanted with it in one hour if you had not used one before.
Another cheep test some people do is to take a 194 style bulb, and use it as a noid light. Every time I see someone do that, I want to smack them. Noid lights are cheep, like 1/100th of what they used to sell for. I got my set used for $5 bucks, and they are blue point. You can get a new set for under $50, and test GM, Ford, Chrysler & Imports.
For those who do not know, a Noid Light is used to check for injector signal and injector pulse at the wiring connector. It's just to test signals from the ECM.
These days if you work on cars, you have no excuse not to rent, barrow, or purchase the proper tools. If you can not do that, take the car to someone who has them for diagnostic and service. If that is a problem, a for sale sign might be the kinder root for your car. Charles
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I generally agree. But this was a specific situation that involved a large expense for little use, with better alternaticves IMHO. If I'm discouraged from expressing my own view then I may as well just stop participating. I try not to be rude or anything but I see nothing wrong with disagreeing about something here or there.
On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 05:52:46 GMT, "Charles Bendig"

** To email a reply, please remove everything up to and including the underscore in my email reply header.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.