02 Ford Explorer no Brake Lights or Rear Turn Signals

My 2002 Ford Explorer's brake lights and rear turn signals are not working. The top rear brake light is working. The front turn signals work but blink really fast.

I checked both bulbs and the fuse, they are all good.

Anyone know what the problem could be?

Thanks

Reply to
joe_noreal
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used the hazard lites lately ????

If so, turn them on and off a couple of times to clean the contacts inside the switch

Reply to
Ollie

I recently bought a used 2000 Explorer XLS and the one brake light was not working and the other one was intermittently working. I replaced both brake lamps and still had the same problem. Upon close inspection of the lamp sockets, I discovered that they both showed signs of overheating. I replaced both brake lamp sockets with an aftermarket product called Conduct-Tite lamp socket found off the shelf at Auto Zone (Houston, TX area). The part number is 84764. This part number is for Ford trucks from 1997 and newer. The part is American made by Motormite, Division of R&B, Inc., Colmar, PA 18915. The price was $7.95 for each socket. This fixed my problem. The counter man also recommended that I use a heat transfer silicon type salve smeared on the base of the replacement brake lamps, which I bought. Very necessary and here is why: My XLS has an automatic transmission, and when standing in stop and go traffic while in gear, and to keep the vehicle from crawling forward, you must step on the brakes. This obviously turns on the brake lights which rapidly become VERY HOT! The heat from the lamps will soon make the original Ford supplied lamp sockets get brittle from the baking of the brake lamp high temperature. Now, the otherwise plasticized lamp retaining tabs that hold the lamp in positive contact with the socket breaks off and the lamp moves out of contact due to road vibration. I previously mentioned the heat transfer salve above. This is to help distribute brake lamp high heat more evenly outward through the socket, instead of only at the area where the lamp filament wires come in contact with the actual contact area of the socket.

Although this has been a rambling response, I hope I have helped to identify a workable solution to this problem.

Regards,

Marshall Dues Katy, Texas

joe snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Reply to
Marshall M. Dues

I recently bought a used 2000 Explorer XLS and the one brake light was not working and the other one was intermittently working. I replaced both brake lamps and still had the same problem. Upon close inspection of the lamp sockets, I discovered that they both showed signs of overheating. I replaced both brake lamp sockets with an aftermarket product called Conduct-Tite lamp socket found off the shelf at Auto Zone (Houston, TX area). The part number is 84764. This part number is for Ford trucks from 1997 and newer. The part is American made by Motormite, Division of R&B, Inc., Colmar, PA 18915. The price was $7.95 for each socket. This fixed my problem. The counter man also recommended that I use a heat transfer silicon type salve smeared on the base of the replacement brake lamps, which I bought. Very necessary and here is why: My XLS has an automatic transmission, and when standing in stop and go traffic while in gear, and to keep the vehicle from crawling forward, you must step on the brakes. This obviously turns on the brake lights which rapidly become VERY HOT! The heat from the lamps will soon make the original Ford supplied lamp sockets get brittle from the baking of the brake lamp high temperature. Now, the otherwise plasticized lamp retaining tabs that hold the lamp in positive contact with the socket breaks off and the lamp moves out of contact due to road vibration. I previously mentioned the heat transfer salve above. This is to help distribute brake lamp high heat more evenly outward through the socket, instead of only at the area where the lamp filament wires come in contact with the actual contact area of the socket.

Although this has been a rambling response, I hope I have helped to identify a workable solution to this problem.

Regards,

Marshall Dues Katy, Texas

joe snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Reply to
Marshall M. Dues

Hi,

I tried this, still having the same problem.

Ollie wrote:

Reply to
joe_noreal

Pull out your testlite and make sure that you don't have power and ground there

If not ,get a schematic and check the multi-funtion switch

Reply to
Ollie

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