My right rear window no longer goes up (which sucks when it's 30 degrees in the midwest). My master switch does not work at all but the rear switch on the door itself will power it down. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've tried switching the left rear door switch with the right rear door switch and it did nothing. No time/$$ to spend on repairs. Please help.
in the midwest). My master switch does not work at all but the rear switch on the door itself will power it down. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've tried switching the left rear door switch with the right rear door switch and it did nothing. No time/$$ to spend on repairs. Please help.
>I had almost the exact same thing happen with my '96 driver's side door electric lock. Could unlock, but not lock. Tested the switch, it was fine. Tore open the accordian rubber cover for the wiring harness at the door hinge and found that the pink/green wire had completely separated. Checking the schematic in the shop manual, the pink/green was the door lock circuit. It was difficult, but I was able to strip both broken ends and reconnect them with a crimp connector. Put it all back together and it works fine. Don't know how the wire separated - probably just fatigued over the years.
You probably have the same problem. You'll have to get at the wire harness where it passes thru that rubber conduit to see if any of the wires are separated. Even if they are not separated, you may have to bend along the length of each one until you see a sharp bend, which usually indicates the metal conductor has broken but the insulation has not. Therefore you'll see the sharp bend where the wires inside are actually likely broken. Cut the wire at that point and either solder it back together or use a crimp connector.
Bottom line, Ford should have used a wire specifically designed for 10's of thousands of flexes, and not just regular automotive hookup wire like it appears they did.
Mike
Look for a problem in either the master window switch or (more likely) the red/black wire feeding the right rear window motor - usual place is in the drivers door bellows. If the wire is broken inside the bellows, choose your repair carefully.... soldering and shrink sleeve or a butt connector will add a stiff part to something that needs to flex - going inside the door and inside the A-pillar is least likely to cause future problems. While you're at it, inspect the rest of the wires carefully.... if one is broken there are likely to be more "hurtin'".
Here's the reasoning..... the window goes down at the right rear door switch - this prooves that we have power to the switch and that the violet/black wire is in one piece back to the master switch and that the switch itself has a decent ground. You swapped switches so we can rule out the switch. It won't go anywhere with the master switch - since there are only two wires from the master switch to the window motor and we know that the violet/black is good.... we are left with the other (red/black) wire or the master switch itself....... happy hunting.
Jim Warman snipped-for-privacy@telusplanet.net
in the midwest). My master switch does not work at all but the rear switch on the door itself will power it down. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've tried switching the left rear door switch with the right rear door switch and it did nothing. No time/$$ to spend on repairs. Please help.
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