91 power windows

Nope, mine still work OK.

Are you sure you're pushing the right switch?

if you don't like it why don't you just sell it asshole??

Haha smartass. What's happened is that inside the gear housings, the

3 nylon rollers have gotten old and broken up into pieces. Rather than pay $80 plus for new motors, I replaced these rollers with 7/16 ball bearings for around $.80 per window. I also found 3/8 nylon screw spacers, but since the original rollers were 12x11 mils, closer to 7/16, I'm trying the ball bearings. I've heard of using 3/8 aluminum rod also, but it seems a bit undersized.

OK, what was your experience?

Kiss my white ass fuckwad

Wellllll..... I fix cars for a living. I've come across the following problems (in no particular order)...

- no power to the circuits

- faulty switch

- damaged wiring in the door bellows

- faulty motor

- faulty regulator

Where I would start with the diagnosis depends on what the symptoms I observed are.

Jim Warman snipped-for-privacy@telusplanet.net

Never Forget

On Mon, 26 Jul 2004 03:56:03 -0400, AbitRip manages to squeak:

Ahhhh the prissy one, ribbet. Hope you also filtered the one who called me asshole, LOL! : D

Yep everything was ok that you listed. The motor itself is fine also. As I explained in another post, it was the nylon rollers which help transfer power from the inner plastic gear to the crank gear which were the problem. Here it is again: What's happened is that inside the gear housings, the

3 nylon rollers have gotten old and broken up into pieces. Rather than pay $80 plus for new motors, I replaced these rollers with 7/16 ball bearings for around $.80 per window. I also found 3/8 nylon screw spacers, but since the original rollers were 12x11 mils, closer to 7/16, I'm trying the ball bearings. I've heard of using 3/8 aluminum rod also, but it seems a bit undersized. There's a worm gear directly from the motor, which turns a big plastic gear which in turn turns a smaller metal gear which engages with the actual window gear on the regulator......on the front windows. On the rear it turns the cable spool. Thanks for the reply though.

snipped-for-privacy@fordsucks.com wrotenews: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I'm having to replace my 3rd set of gears on the left rear window motor.

In all fairness, the first two were because some illegals tried to constantly steal my truck by forcing down the windows, breaking the gear teeth. They like Ford trucks with 4x4. I now have a monster alarm system! :_}

Bet your driver's side door pull is broken also!

Let me know if it is. I have an earl where the unit only costs $24.99.

snipped-for-privacy@fordsucks.com wrotenews:h8cag05otif4gsjvslcla8i22d40apj26j@

4ax.com:

I'd do it myself but I can't figure out how to get into the L.R door panel to get to the sucker. I can get the panel off, but there are too many metal bars in the way to get to the motor. I must be stupid or sumptin.

-- riki

--Those who live by the sword get shot by those who don't.

RikiTikiTavi,

Does your 91 rear power windows use a cable mechanism (instead of a gear) to operate the window? If so, can you give me some idea as to how to remove the motor from the cable?

Thanks

RikiTikiTavi,

Does your 91 Explorer rear power window operate with a gear mechanism or a cable? My 94 uses a cable mechanism and I can't figure out how to remove the motor from the cable mechanism. If yours is a cable any input would be appreciated

Thanks

"srv" wrotenews: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkabouttrucks.com:

I think mine is a cable. I've had the rear panel off for 6 months, trying to figure this out. I like to do for myself. My shadetree did it for $55. I wish I'd been around when he had done the other side. For that price I figure it should be fairly easy. The Hay manual schematic is pretty fuzzy. All I can figure out is that maybe he took a sabre saw with a metal blade and just cut through some of the supports. I might have to take the panel off the other side that he fixed and see.

Anyway, I think it's gears, come to think of it. I bought a gear kit for about $16 at Autozone.com and that's all he needed. A shop will tell you it's the whole motor and I think that's about $60 plus labor.

When you look, and see cable, that is probably the remote door lock you're looking at. That IS a cable.

If anyone wants to know how to replace the driver's door handle pull bar that is a common broken problem, let me know. I just did that myself. Not hard.

-- Riki

--Those who live by the sword get shot by those who don't.

Yea, I could use some help fixing the driver's door handle. I think the broken driver's door handle is a Ford Trademark.

"Ulysses" wrotenews:10p2up6el887n45 @corp.supernews.com:

visit us at:

Direct line 978-433-4150 Order line 888-844-3393

1A Auto 2 Lomar Park Drive Unit# 3 Pepperell, MA 01463

It's about $24 now, I paid about 21 a year or so ago.

Be very careful when you install it with those plastic pins on the new handle. They're very brittle.

I broke about 7 of them off. I had to open the holes and make them bigger on the supplied lock clamps so I wouldn't have to force them down so hard and break the pins.

I ended up having to put a small metal screw with two washers through one part, drilled through the door panel and new handle assy to hold it secure. I used a Sharpie magic marker and colored it black and it blends in and isn't noticible.

The door panel comes off very easily. There are two screws in the door handle assy and maybe one other in another place. Use a big screwdriver to pry off the door panel.

The original handle is hot-melted-plastic riveted in place so you'll have to drill them all out, about 15 of them? to break loose the old handle assy and to install the new one.

The new handle assy's little plastic pins should fit into all the new holes. Don't FORCE them! They're brittle.

HTH

-- riki

--Those who live by the sword get shot by those who don't.

You can also just melt the pins on the new part to hold the whole thing together just like on the original. It's actually better to do it that way because the pins wind up (at least they did on mine till I melted them down) interfering with the rest of the door panel making the new part not want to lay flat. You can melt them down with a soldering iron or heat a screwdriver blade with a propane torch.

-- Elbridge Gerry, of Massachusetts:

"What, sir, is the use of militia? It is to prevent the establishment of a standing army, the bane of liberty. . . Whenever Government means to invade the rights and liberties of the people, they always attempt to destroy the militia, in order to raise a standing army upon its ruins." -- Debate, U.S. House of Representatives, August 17, 1789