93 Explorer-sagging doors-hinge replacement

Hi,

I have a 1993 Ford Explorer with sagging doors on both the driver's side and passenger side. I checked with an auto body shop and they told me it would cost roughly $200.00 per door to fix. This seemed a bit high so I have looked into doing this myself. However, I am not much the mechanic and fear digging into something that I cannot finish. I'm not totally inept, I can do basic repair/maintanence, and I have taken the time to study what would be involved in doing this myself.

From what I have gathered, it is possible to replace a hinge at a time, without removing the door completely, thereby avoiding the prospect of disconnecting the electrical. The opinions I have read state that it may be just the bottom hinge that needs replacing, but it seems like the top one has the play in it. Anyway, before I cause too much damage, does anyone have any advice on how to perform this procedure? Or would it be better to take it to a mechanic. It seems simple in removing the bolt that holds the hinge to the body, but there is a rivet of some sort that is also holding the hinge to the body and I have no idea how to remove it. Any help would be appreciated.

Thomas Chattanooga, TN

Reply to
PredatorsHockey1
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Basically, it's not a very difficult job, just bulky. Two people are handy. And a support for the door while working on a hinge. You can tell by carefully looking how the front of the door hangs which hinge is failing..Measure at the hinges, if the gap at the top is much greater and the bottom gap is about right, it's the top hinge. If the opposite is true, then it's the bottom. The difficulty is realigning the door once the hinge is replaced.

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Reply to
rakster

I had a guy change the drivers door hinges on my '93 Sport. he charged about $120. the biggest thing that kept me from attempting it was, to get at the bolts that hold the hinge to the body you have to go at them from the inside, so you have to take some of the dash area apart to get at them. Mike

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Reply to
Mike Lapke

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Go to an Explorer site that has been up for so long that it is often forgotten. It is based on early 90's models, but I suspect that some things haven't changed.

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It might give you a good insight on how to proceed.

Charlie

Reply to
Charlie Bress

Charlie Brass offers some sound advice... been a while since I checked their content but it is a good site.....

Where I do find exception is your conception of what is too much. You haven't stated what percent is parts and what percent is labour. Quite obviously you don't do this for a living but you have decided that this is too much...... I don't know what you do for a living but I have the choice of arbitrarily deciding that you want too much (remember that last raise you wanted?) or that your boss wants too much.

Others will state that they paid much less for similar service....... you will ALWAYS find someone that got a better "deal" than you did. Others actually did get similar service for less money.... and are willing to accept something less than good. Choice is yours.... there is a lot of body damage that can be caused by ill-fated attempts at adjusting alignment.... fasteners that can be hopelessly stripped by the neophyte.... and a DIY project that winds up costing much more and taking much longer than what "those bandits" might have done.

Assess your abilities honestly. Study the task at hand. Thinking you can do it is a lot different than knowing you can do it.

Me? If you tried to fix it first and botched it...... I must first undo what you have done..... unfortunately, my time is money. I do good work, I don't do free work (my family frowns on it). It is very important that DIYers realize the extent of their abilities and knowledge.

-- Jim Warman snipped-for-privacy@telusplanet.net

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Reply to
Jim Warman

After you get to know me, you will see I don't mince words but I do try to give sound advice.

Not knowing where you live and not knowing the condition of your vehicle (well your door hinges are pooched and I don't see that often with Fords) all I can say is that the $175 works out to about 2 hours of labour...... not out of line, especially if the job is done properly. Yes, I realize that this is "per door".

Now you need to realize that I spend a good deal of time trying to help people minimize their repair costs...... I don't care if they do it or a mechanic does it...... all I'm attempting is to reduce the frustration factor, minimize needless expense and make sure that folks are cruising around in safe vehicles.

I demand nothing of you other than to take my advice or disregard my advice, there is no need to argue my advice. It is your door, there are many things that you can inadvertently do to screw up your door. Old fasteners can fool the neophyte. "I didn't think that would happen" jumps out and bites the neophyte. I think of the cylinder head I couldn't save because someone gave it "their best shot". I think of the $1200 wiring harness because someone "gave it their best shot". Mechanics isn't as easy as it sounds or looks.... If it were, everyone would be a tech and door rates would be a buck an hour.

You asked opinion, I gave opinion..... I am so very sorry it wasn't the opinion you wanted. Perhaps, the next time, you could tell me what it is you want to hear.

Good day, sir, I hope your task goes well.

-- Jim Warman snipped-for-privacy@telusplanet.net

Reply to
Jim Warman

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