94 Explorer-acts like starving for fuel when accelerating, but.....

When I accelerate hard, as in pulling out into traffic, the engine coughs and sputters. Loss of power. When I ease off then the engine operates normally. This basically happens over 2000 RPMs.

I've added fuel additives, injector cleaners, octane boosters, you name it. The performance did improve somewhat. At least it quit dying when I accelerated. When that was happening, I would pull over and restart it, sometimes it would take a while and others it would start right up.

I have installed new fuel pump and replaced fuel filter. Fuel pressure is constant at 30PSI. Fuel pump relay OK. When I jump the relay as in remove it and and add a jumper for continuous operation the pressure continues to increase up to 40PSI. Vacuum tested OK.

Tested the coil pack and Ignition Control Module. Tested OK .

Replaced PCV, EGR, and a few other items.

Also it idles a little rough, intermittent misses, but smoothes out as I accelerate, slowly of course.

This happened once before, but stopped after it sat over night.

By the way, on the freeway I can get it up to 85MPH, but if I stomp on it, it cough and sputters until I ease off.

Appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks

Jim

Reply to
J Adams
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Easy to replace - the air filter. While your at it, clean the IAC.

Charlie

Reply to
Charlie Bress

Pulled the air filter, it's dirty. I'll replace it.

What's the IAC?

Also, it just died >Easy to replace - the air filter.

Reply to
J Adams

replaced air filter and cleaned IAC , and I tested the IAC. Everything is Ok except now it misses at higher RPMs.

I'm beginning to think the fuel pump is going bad. It cycles, but not always. I pulled the relay and jumped it and sometimes it would not come on.. But would that cause it to act as though it were starving for fuel once its running?

Reply to
J Adams

Reply to
Rob Morris

Hi Rob

Here's the answers to your questions.

4.0 V6. The CEL does not come on. The fuel pressure at idle is 30PSI.

Thanks

Jim

Reply to
J Adams

How old are the spark plugs and wires? Do you have any white smoke when you first start it in the morning? Are you losing any coolant? I'm considering the possiblility of a leaking head gasket or intake manifold gasket. Is your temperature gauge reading normal?

Do you have any loose vacuum connectons, especially at the cluster on the intake manifold? If you do check for signs of transmission fluid which could indicate a leaking vacuum diaphram on the automatic transmission.

Reply to
Ulysses

The plugs and wires are 6 months old. I noticed yesterday some white smoke when I first started it, then after 5 minutes no smoke. Don't seem to have any coolant issues, but it does run on the cool side.

The vacuum pressure is fine and don't seem to have any vacuum leaks. I didn't notice any transmission fluid or coolant in the oil. How would I determine if there is coolant in the oil? Or am I misreading that part?

Regarding the head and intake manifold gasket, when I hook up the code reader I get a '10' which says there is a problem with cylinder one, but that has been reading that for a long time.

This morning, after driving for 15 minutes it started sputtering and coughing (like I was out of fuel) then died. It did that the rest of the way home, not all the time just occassionally. I wasn't driving it hard or accelerating, just driving 25MPH.

Thanks Jim

Reply to
J Adams

Intake minifold gasket leaks are common on the early Explorers. White smoke at startup could mean it's trying to burn some coolant along with the gasoline. Sometimes, from what others have said, when it warms up it will stop leaking (at least as much). Possibly it's leaking more once you get going but it doesn't sound to me like that would account for the engine running THAT poorly. Plus you'd probably notice a significant coolant loss. Keep in mind that I'm no expert, just another guy that has some Explorers who has (so far) always managed to fix them. I was thinking maybe a stuck thermostat but that also doesn't seem like it would cause the engine to crap out.

What I was refering to was the cluster of vacuum lines on the intake. If you have a leaking vacuum diaphram on the automatic transmission it could cause the vacuum connectors to swell up and leak. You can pull a couple of connectors off and see if there is any red trans fluid on the inside of them. But, once again, burning a tiny bit of trans fluid doesn't seem like it could make the engine runs so rough. BTW be careful with the small vacuum lines as they can break easily.

To me it's now sounding like a bad electrical or vacuum connection. Take a really good look at the battery cables, especially the positive one. They can be completely deteriorated on the inside and look OK on the outside.

Since you have a code telling you that cylinder one is acting up pull out the plug and see if it has coolant on it. You might also want to have the cylinder pressure checked.

There was a recent argument, er, I mean discussion about adding Stop Leak to our engines. My personal opinion is that it is unlikely to help with an intake manifold gasket leak but it might help a lot with a head gasket leak. It also might clog your heater core or thermostat. I used about 1/4 of a can of Justice Brothers (or something like that) stop leak that was supposed to stop head leaks. In my case it seems to have worked. The first time I used a whole can and had to flush the radiator and heater core. And clean the thermostat.

I have replaced the intake manifold gaskets on both my '91 and '92. I just followed the instructions in my Hayne's manual and labeled everything, especially the plug wires. The first time it took me a few days working on it now and then. The second time it went fairly quickly though there is a lot of stuff that has to be removed. In both cases it was successful. On my '92 it had white smoke and ran rough and idled poorly. On my '91 it was gushing out so diagnosis was simple.

I've not had any fuel pump problems (yet) but when you said it cycles "sometimes" are you trying it right after it just cycled? I'm thinking it might not cycle because the system is already pressured at that point.

Reply to
Ulysses

After your comment on the white smoke I decided to pull the heads. And lots of anti-freeze residue inside the combustion chamber. I'm surprised it even ran. There was definitely leaking and I'm cleaning them thoroughly and will check for warppage. While I'm at it I'm going to replace the thermostat.

What a lot stuff to remove!!!! Took your advice and labelled everything. That will be a great help when putting it back together.

Once I get it back together and running then I will be able to determine if there is another problem, i.e. electrical or vacuum etc. No doubt the head gasket was a big part of the problem. Thanks for your advice.

Jim

Reply to
J Adams

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