This is my first Explorer and I'm looking for suggestions, and/or advice, on the best/easiest way to change the spark plugs on my '98 Explorer V8? Would removing the fender liners/skirts make the job easier?
TIA,
Steven
That's the route I went about a month ago. I'd remove the tire on the side of the engine I'm working on though, since some say it can be done with the tire installed, I think it's easier with the tire out of the way. I recommend wearing gloves at least on the driver's side since when you remove the spark plug wire on one of the front wires, you end up gouging your hand. Now is a good time to replace the wires if needed.
Done it a couple times on mine - same year, same engine. Definitely go through the wheel well. Only the rubber skirts had to come off. If memory serves, turning the wheel from side to side as you go from front to back helps, but that's it - no reason to take the wheels off. Actually, this is one of the easiest engines to change plugs that I have seen. If you are buying platinum plugs, make sure that they are 'double platinum' (meaning that the platinum plating is on both electrodes). That's because this engine fires with positive voltage on one side of the block and negative on the other. For whatever reason, the wires on this vehicle are notorious for early failures, so I would second the suggestion to change them, especially if they are over 50,000 miles old. Make sure to keep them away from the exhaust manifold (Motorcraft wires come with heat shields on those that are close -- don't know about the other brands).
Thank you Xx and Happy Traveler. I will inspect the wires thoroughly during the plug replacement. My owners manual recommends Motorcraft AWSF32EE spark plugs for replacement, however all I can seem to locate locally are Motorcraft SP432 spark plugs. Are these the same plugs, double platinum?
Thanks again,
Steven
Happy Traveler wrote:
Xx wrote: >> That's the route I went about a month ago. I'd remove the tire on >> the side of the engine I'm working on though, since some say it can >> be done with the tire installed, I think it's easier with the tire >> out of the way. I recommend wearing gloves at least on the driver's >> side since when you remove the spark plug wire on one of the front >> wires, you end up gouging your hand. Now is a good time to replace >> the wires if needed.
stevenmh wrote: >>> This is my first Explorer and I'm looking for suggestions, and/or >>> advice, on the best/easiest way to change the spark plugs on my '98 >>> Explorer V8? Would removing the fender liners/skirts make the job >>> easier? >>>
somewhere I read (wish I could remember where) that double tip platinum's were not really any better than regular platinum's, just costs more.
my 2000 V8 will be needing plugs before too long. now has 79000 miles and runs well. will the 2000 V8 be similar to the 98 V8??
should you use anti-seize when replacing plugs?
Not an expert on Motorcraft plugs, but those don't seem to be platinum at all. Which doesn't mean that they are bad - platinum buys you longevity, not much else. Search this group for old wars about plugs, and you will find a lot of information - and a lot of disagreement... As for wires, I seriously doubt that visual inspection will reveal anything. Perhaps under a microscope... The two that failed on me looked just perfect. Measuring resistance (as suggested by some manuals) is also futile, because it's typically the conductor that fails. The usual failure mode is breakdown of the insulation in some weak spot (probably a manufacturing defect), causing arcing to the nearest metal. Some can see that in the dark. I happen to have an oscilloscope, so that's what I use, but this is certainly an overkill for the average shade tree mechanic.
HT, after some more research I found out that the SP432 (AGSF32FM) are the correct NEW plugs recommended by Ford to replace the AWSF32EE. It seems the AGSF32FM (SP432) is a new Motorcraft Fine-Wire Platinum plug.
Steven
Happy Traveler wrote:
The FM suffix appears to indicate platinum-plated center wire and nickel-plated outside electrode (i.e single plat -- which is fine for COP systems, but not for the older double-ended coil systems). Oh well, the last thing I wanted to start is yet another spark plug war. Perhaps someone in the know will enlighten us about those confusing Motorcraft/Ford designations.
By the way, I found a typo in my advice about wires. Meant to say: ".... Measuring resistance (as suggested by some manuals) is also futile, because it's typically NOT the center conductor that fails...."
Hello HT, thanks again for your advice/recommendations. Since I started this thread I've done some searching for answers on this spark plug issue because I wanted to get the correct, recommended, replacement plugs. Phoning my local Ford parts dealership gave me new Ford Motorcraft part number, AGSF32FM, and searching the net gave me information, and controversies, surrounding the replacement Fine-Wire platinum plugs for the original single/double-platinum plugs.
Another weird thing about the replacement plugs is that the threads are longer, which appears as if the plug will seat further into the cylinder. Here is a site that notes the differences of the plugs:
Steven
Happy Traveler wrote:
Steven,
If you look at the photographs in your reference, the distance from the seating taper to the tip of the plug is the same for both types. Thus they reach exactly to the same depth inside the chamber (I would be really concerned about sticking in a plug that reaches longer than the original - for a variety of reasons, including colliding with the piston at TDC). The difference is that one is fully threaded, while the other is not. The fully threaded one may be able to engage one or two more threads and help a bit to prevent stripped threads by those who do not believe in torque wrenches -- especially on aluminum heads (which luckily, our ancient 302 engines do not have...)
You're right, I stand corrected. The new plug is just fully threaded and does not seat further into the cylinder, just threads further into the block.
I did change the plugs and the pricey wires (~$216.00), turns out removing the wheels and fender apron flaps made the job easy, thanks for the tip. The hardest part was routing the wires. It seems to be running perfect, though it run fine before the maintenance too.
Thanks again,
Steven
Happy Traveler wrote:
The reason double platinums are used on some engines is because the the ignition system fires the spark with a negative voltage on half of the cylinders and a positive voltage on the others. If you used single platinum plugs, you'd have to get two kinds of plugs and install them in the correct cylinders.
The double platinums cost a little more, but allow you to use the same plug in all cylinders.
So you're right- the double platinums are not "better" and do cost more, but just make the job simpler.
-Paul
The reason double platinums are used on some engines is because the the ignition system fires the spark with a negative voltage on half of the cylinders and a positive voltage on the others. If you used single platinum plugs, you'd have to get two kinds of plugs and install them in the correct cylinders.
The double platinums cost a little more, but allow you to use the same plug in all cylinders.
So you're right- the double platinums are not "better" and do cost more, but just make the job simpler.
-Paul
replying to Steven Hilgendorf, Dawn wrote: Having trouble getting last plug out because heat shield
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.