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Bad Vibration while Driving

I have a 95 Limited 4X4 with about 150,000 miles. Over the holiday, we took a long drive. From the onset, a distinct vibration began when the vehicle approached 70 mph. Now it begins around 50 mph after the holiday trip - about 900 miles. It is largely sporadic, sometimes worse than other times at different speeds. i.e. can drive at 65 and barely feel it then slow down or stop and return to 65 and vibration resumes and worse. Definitly in the Power train somewhere. I seems that the vibration is coming from the middle of the vehicle, as you cannot feel it in the tires. Really think its in the transfer case, but don't know how a vibration could occur there. Thought maybe a U joint but all seem tight. Definetly not in the motor and the transmission shifts properly. The transfer case also works properly engaging / disengaging the front tires. Had all the powertrain fluids checked and were fine. Also had the front differential repaired at 95,000 miles and it doesn't make the same sound as that problem or a whine like the differentials going bad. Just hard vibration, enough to make you think somethings is going brake if you go any faster. Would consider driving over 70 mph. Any help would be appreciated, as we need to get it fixed before another trip at X-mas.

Reply to
BryanS
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I've had U-joints feel "tight" because the inside of them was nothing but rusted bearings. Have you pulled the drive shaft so you can really feel the joints when you move them a fair amount?

Reply to
Ashton Crusher

Ashton Crusher wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I've had a seized u-joint cause vibration problems. Its hard to detect until the vehicle is on a lift and you watch the drive shaft for awhile.

(the downside of the problem was that one repair shop diagnosed the problem as the clutch and got pissed at me when I disputed their diagnosis and refused to let them repair it. Hell, I've had failed clutches and none of them caused a transient vibration...)

Reply to
Clark

Thanks Ashton and Clark, I put the truck up on the rack yesterday and really tried to work the u joints and had the mechanic look at them. He said they were fine, but now after reading your posts I'm not so sure. We did flush the tranny as the fluid was really discolored. After the flush the truck made the same problem. I took him for a ride and he says its the torque converter. I have gone through the archieves and its similar to what others have found as well. Called the parts store - DEALER PART -

333.00 ----OUCH!! been on the phone with some tranny part shops today and can get a rebuild for about 90.00. Why are dealers parts so much more expensive?

Going with the 90.00, now just got to get it put in.

If the U joints were bad weren't there be some sort of play in them??

thanks for the help. Bryan

Reply to
BryanS

Also wanted to say that the inside of the tranny looked really good. No shavings or metal whatsoever. That was encouraging to see. I will really check the U-joints over when I pull the driveline to get the tranny out. Maybe should just replace them anyway. Bryan

Reply to
BryanS

While I'm here, what is the best brand of torque converter to get? 90.00 quote is for BNI and got a 98.00 quote for Daco. Are there certain things to look for or avoid when getting a torque converter?

Reply to
BryanS

I think the dealer part is more expensive because either it's new, or perhaps they do a better job rebuilding them. It's been a while since I talked to my local shop but when I talked to him about the quality of rebuilt TCs he seemed to think there were definitely differences in the quality of the rebuilt's and the equipment they used to open them up and then weld them back together.

Something else that can cause a vibration supposedly is if the pilot bushing in the flywheel has been worn out and replaced. When the truck was new supposedly they put the bushing in and then use some kind of fixture to ream it out so it's truly concentric with the transmission mounting bolt holes. One of the problems when you get them rebuilt is if the bushing is shot and they put a new one in they probably can get it perfectly concentric like the factory one was.

As to u-joints, if they are rusted up they may not have any play at all and if you just push them from side to side while the drive shaft is installed you won't feel any play. But if you take the drive shaft out so you can work the joint thru is range of motion you will feel how it's all bound up inside and doesn't want to move. The last u-joint problem I had was on my son's explorer. When starting from a stop there was a vibration/growl at low speed, maybe between 5 to 10 mph and then it went away. I had the drive shaft rebuilt and balanced and that cured it. I don't recall how the joints felt when I pulled the shaft but I think it mostly felt like the bearings were getting rough and pitted more then just bound up.

Reply to
Ashton Crusher

"BryanS" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:

They do tend to charge a premium, don't they? For 333, you get a new, warrantied part with purty paint. Or you can go down the street to PepZone (or is that AutoBoys?) and get the same part for a few dollars less and maybe a different color of paint. Or you can go the rebuilt route. Some are good and some aren't. My uncle, a retired Ford master mechanic, was always real picky about who he would buy rebuilt stuff from when us nephews would bum free advice (and labor and garage space) from him.

My seized u-joint appeared tight when it was static. We could see the vibration in the driveline when it was run on the lift.

Well, if its the TC, then its the TC. You can always take it back to the parts house if you find bad u-joints on the way in to rnr the TC. Thanks for sharing the problem and mechanic's diagnosis. Hope the fix works and let us know.

Reply to
Clark

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