Determining alternator size?

Should be no problem going with the 130 amp, as long as the connection plugs and pulley size and mounting bolts are the same. Although I have yet to change an alternator on my Explorer, I have changed several on Dodges and Chevrolets I used to own. I usually went with a bigger (higher rated ) alternator, if the cost was not much more. The higher rated alternator has the capacity to, in non-tech terms, put more current in the battery under high current draw situations. The voltage is regulated to be the same for either alternator. Note that if the 95 amp model has served you well, you may not need to upgrade to the 130 amp model, unless you need a lot of current, such as having a humongous custom stereo and amp or tow a trailer with a lot of lights. SF

Thanks for the info.

Just as a follow up, I'm still not certain exactly what size the old one was, but I installed a new (actually, remanufactured) 135 amp one last night, and it was physically identical to the one I replaced. Not certain if that means the one I took out was also 135, or if both models are produced using the same housing.

A word of warning for anyone else doing this: The local Pep Boys sold me a new alternator for the 4.0 SOHC engine, and when I took the old one out, I realized that although similar, the mounting bolt holes were about 1/2 inch further apart -- wouldn't line up! I returned it, they double checked their part listings, and everything claimed that the unit they sold me was the right one for that engine, but it was obviously not. I ended up buying a remanufactured unit from them which was an exact duplicate of the original. So if you're going to tackle a replacement, take the old unit out first and take it with you to the parts place to save any aggravation.

The good news is that the replacement was a piece of cake. Had I had the right unit from the start, the job would have taken me under an hour -- well worth the cost savings, as the dealer wanted $350 to do it, and the reman unit cost me $189. The hardest part was getting a

3/8" drive rachet onto the pulley arm to release the tension from the drive belt. The pulley was right in line with the radiator fan shroud, so I ended up having to loosen that *and* the radiator to shift them both a bit to give myself clearance to get the rachet in place. Having a simple 3/8" breaker bar would have made the job easier, but I didn't have mine with me at the time.

Also of note: Our local NAPA store has a device where you can take in your old alt. and in about 60 sec they can hook it up to a device that will spin it and check output voltage and amp output. They will also bench test the rebuilt unit they sell you....plus change the pulley if you don't have a way to remove the large nut on the end of the shaft. wth

So if you put in the 130 amp alternator instead of the 95 and were running it at close to capacity what are the odds the fusible link would melt??

I couldn't tell you, don't know, never tried it ; - )

I was just quoting from the service manual and what I have observed on my Explorer. Complete factory service manual quote below:

"Because of its high output capacity, the 130-amp generator used on Explorer vehicles has two fuse links in the output circuit.

The fusible l>