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Explorer audio headunit install

OK, this is about my third headunit install ever in my life, and the first (for me) for this vehicle - 96 Explorer Sport.

Purchased a new cheap and cheerful Aiwa headunit (CDC-X437). Hooked up the appropriate wires to a new adapter cable that plugs into the Ford grey connector, including speaker connections. The unit doesn't activate at all.

I checked voltages, the 'memory' wire (always on) has 0V, so that's a problem. The red ACC wire carries 12-14V when the ignition is turned on, so that's fine.

I'm surprised that the unit didn't activate even without the memory wire having power.

My problems are as follows:-

1) Why doesn't the memory wire (always on) on the Ford grey plug measure at 12V? Could there be a blown fuse - I have checked the usual suspects (fuse panel and fuse on 12V lead on battery - all are fine). 2) Where can I find an always on 12V lead? Cigarette lighter comes to mind, or running to the battery through the firewall. 3) Is this headunit working at all? I'd expect the memory wire just to keep radio settings, and for the unit to function without this wire being powered, but maybe I'm way off base.

My thoughts on how to proceed are as follows:-

1) Determine if the new headunit operates at all, which means getting hold of a 12V wire (always on). Perhaps split the ACC wire, and supply 12V to the memory wire (with ignition on). See if unit powers up. If it does determine what 12V (always on) wire I can use? If it doesn't proceed with 2) below.

2) Contact AIWA, see if they could help me troubleshoot? Hmmn, don't know whether that would work well.

Paul Scrutton

Reply to
Paul Scrutton
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OK, curiosity got the better of me, I clipped an alligator clip from the cigarette lighter to the headunit memory connection, and the unit comes to life. Wow, that's awesome.

Now all I need to do is decide where to get the 12V always on from - perhaps splitting that cigaratte lighter might be the way to go?

Anyone know why the 'memory' wire on Explorer is not outputting 12-14V. Is this common, or do I have a blown fuse or some other problem?

Paul

Reply to
Paul Scrutton

A blown fuse is the most likely culprit. The quickest way to test fuses is with a test light or multimeter...test both points at the top of the fuse for voltage. A fuse with voltage present at one point but not the other is blown. Don't forget to check the fuse/relay box under the hood too.

If you don't find a blown fuse, then yes, you can tap the cigarette lighter wire.

Reply to
KaeZoo

Make sure the memory wire is making good contact with the pin in the gray connector. It's possible the wire is carrying 12V but not properly attached to the connector. Did the stock HU retain its memory correctly? Did you check the fuses yet? I'd at least try and find the problem if possible before trying to find another 12V source.

Tony

What's more likely? That an all-powerful mysterious god created the universe and then decided not to give any proof of his existence? Or, that he simply doesn't exist at all? And that we created him so that we wouldn't have to feel so small and alone. -Eleanor Arroway, Contact

Reply to
Tony Fernandes

Thanks guys. I did find the problem. It was a blown fuse (fuse # 29). I determined this from looking at the circuit diagram in my Haynes manual.

The fuse-diagram in my owners manual calls this the 'audio' fuse. I checked the radio fuse orignally but I must have overlooked this one.

Just for fun I connected up my old stereo (which had a non working front panel)....works just fine now. I know exactly what happened now....I had finished replacing the bulb on one of my dash lamps. I then reinstalled the stereo with the battery connected. The action of connecting the stereo blew the fuse. I then assumed that the headunit (now 10 years old) had been statically shocked or had given up the ghost....so I purchased a new stereo....oh well...

Paul

Reply to
Paul Scrutton

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