Have 97 Explorer 4x4 sohc numerous problems. Can't control temperature. AC works great set to max. ac. But vent , floor brings on the heat . Digitally set temp control will make no change to output temp. Max ac freezes anything else directs hot air to where ever you told it to go to. All help appreciated. How do you get rear rotors off. Friend borrowed and drove with emer. brake on. I have parts to replace the pads and rotors but cannot get rotors off at all. Disconnect emer. brake and even adjusted it to one extreme setting and the other and will not budge 1mm. I am lost on this one. Hammer and torch are next options. Automatic 4x4 hi/low dash indicators flash six times and waits the six more times. Will not engage. Reseated all electrical connections and fixed it for a while now back and cannot resolve. Is the six flashes a code? Suggestions!!
Sounds like the blend door problem with your heater. Do a google search on the newsgroups and you'll see it. It's pretty expensive if you go through the dealer for the repair (so I've read)
And tell your friend not to drive with the E-Brake on. :) On this vehicle the e-brake is not part of the caliper assembly. There is an internal shoe/drum brake assembly within the rotor that is your e-brake. Just thought I'd mention that in case you thought you needed to replace the pads and rotors because of your friend.
Try a sledge carefully around the outer rim of the drum, and turn the rotor in between whacks. Never had to resort to torch, but be careful. Might wanna lookup a good technique to do it.
The AC doesn't sound like the usual blend door problem though it bears having a look at. The actuator and shaft can be seen by lowering the cubbyhole door. I understand this to be ATC...... I'd be guessing but my first inclination would be the cabin air temp sensor. Somewhere on the dash will be a small grille, probably the same colour as the dash (about an inch in diameter or per side). These can have several different types of failures including dust bunnies....
For the rear rotors, you can try soaking the "register" on the axle with penetrating oil - I'm not talking WD40, I'm talking honest to goodness weasel p*ss. Go around the rotor a time or two with a hammer, medium blows with a 12 ounce betwixt the studs and then (pulling on one side of the rotor), a smart blow to the top edge of the "hat" portion - not the "brim". If you still have no luck, you can warm the rotor - stay as far away from the axle register as possible but don't go near the swept surface. The idea is to warm the area around the studs as evenly as possible without warming the axle. A propane torch works but it is a very cool flame and much of the heat will transfer to the axle. Oxy-acetylene is better, but we don't want to heat to a colour change. If the problem is rust in the centre, you should hear a very slight creak when the rotor is ready to demount. Change the axle seals at the same time - there's a lot of heat generate by bonehead manouevers and the seals lifespan will be severely shortened. Having said that, a friend would insist of having the problem repaired out of his own pocket and at no cost or discomfort - the brake warning lamp does work, right?
There will be much more learned by polling the 4WD module or GEM (sorry, no manuals at home tonight) for stored code(s)..... I don't work on a lot of these but I understand the usual problem regards an incoherent signal or loss of signal from the front shaft speed sensor.
Latly, I'd appreciate it if we can keep everything on the NG.... there are a lot of smart cookies here and many of them have a more personal relationship with some problems than I do. If I don't respond, others have answered adequately (or superbly, as the case may be) and all I can add is "me too" - or.... it may be something I'm not real familiar with and don't want to send someone on a wild goose chase. Either way, if we keep it on the NG, the info, questions and ideas are preserved for all to use.....
I had the same problem with the rear brake rotors. Used a "3-jaw-puller" I rented from the auto parts store. A few twists, a big pop, and they came right off. Consider covering the brake with a heavy cloth while you turn the bolt on the puller, this will keep it from jumping into your shins or other body parts. Much gentler and less likely to cause damage than a torch or a sledge hammer.
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