HELP - Stalling 97 Explorer

Just recently started having problem with stalling when starting 97 Explorer SOHC V-6 (99,000 miles on the odometer). After starting, the engine stalls unless the accelerator is pushed to keep RPMs above 1,000. Let off the gas and it immediately stalls. Reving or driving the engine otherwise and it runs smooth as silk.

Thought it might be a weak battery (wife charged her cell phone in the vehicle while at work the same day the problem started). The battery is the original (7 yrs old), but cranks fine. Just for the heck of it, hooked jumper cables to the battery. After it stalled the first time when letting off the accelerator, restarted it and it ran fine without stalling. I replaced the battery two days ago, and tonight it stalled again.

What things should I check first before taking it to a mechanic? What would make it stall at low RPMs but run fine at higher RPMS and while driving? Unfortunately, I don't have the service manuals so I'm not sure where some parts are located (EGR, O2 sensor, PCV) or how to check them. If you could give a description of the location, I would be very grateful. The fuel filter, plugs and PCV valve were changed approx. 20,000 mi ago.

I think it has also lost power over the the past several months with occasional missing. Also over the past several months, seems to have that dreaded rattling at start-up, characteristic of the chain tensioner problem. (Also just dug through my files and found that Ford extended the warranty to

7 yrs or 100,000 mi for front cam chain guide, but the letter describes the problem as a rattling sound lasting longer than FIVE minutes. Doesn't that sound a little long if it's a tensioner problem?)

Thanks in advance for your help on the stalling problem. Bones

Reply to
Bones
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Two common problems are the IAC and intake gaskets.... both of these could reproduce the symptoms you describe. You'd be further ahead to avail yourself of your own manual rather than have one of us spend a whole bunch of time helping you save 20 bucks.

If you are bound and determined to avoid us techs..... I would suggest replacing the IAC first, progressing to the intake gaskets after that. I assume that the car has been serviced according to the owners manual???

Jim Warman snipped-for-privacy@telusplanet.net

Reply to
Jim Warman

My 93 with 100k miles had the same problem, I replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor and all was fine. The part cost me 64 bucks and about 10 minutes to replace it. The dealer wanted 400$.

Reply to
econof

I would think it's the IAC also.

Reply to
SizzleMP

Thanks Jim. Yes, the vehicle has had regular maintenance. Does everyone suggest the Helm's service manuals?

Sorry, but - what is IAC? Idle air control? Where is it? (I promise I'll buy the the maual, but we got a snow storm coming this weekend and we need

4WD. So I gotta get it fixed soon).

Thanks everyone!

Reply to
Bones

Thanks econof. See my most recent reply to Jim.... Where is the MAF located until I get some service manuals ordered?

Reply to
Bones

I had a similar problem with my '97 Explorer. Check for any vacuum leaks first, since that's easy to do. My problem was a rubber cap that had come off from a metal vacuum tube. Maybe that tube has to be used for CA omissions but not necessary in other states(just guessing).

Anyhow got the cap back on and car ran fine. The metal tub is located over the driver side valve cover.

Reply to
4-2LGW

Look on ebay for the original ford manual (paper not CD), those chilton, and haynes manual suck. Just my opinion.

Reply to
Sauger

I've been shovelling snow for the past month...... and to make matters worse, Santa came early and brought me a 100th anniversary Sportster.

Yep, IAC is idle air control. It is located very near the throttle butterfly (IIRC...... some of the new ones are placed 'creatively').... two wires going to it and held on by two bolts.

For the manual, check out

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there's a link at thetop right to the manuals. The beauty of manuals on CD are that you can printoff what you need and if they get torn or dirty, there's nothing lost. Jim Warman snipped-for-privacy@telusplanet.net

Reply to
Jim Warman

A number of us have had some success cleaning the IAC, since it is a bit pricey to replace, even though I gather the official linbe is that it is a "non-servicable item". It is located in the intake air stream on the top of the engine and is a metal device, perhaps 6-8" long, with an electrical connection on the side. Inside is a valve that operates to help regulate the idle speed, and over time the shaft seems to get crudded up and tends to stick. I removed mine and used an available cleaner (I think I had contact cleaner handy) and haven't had a problem since.

=Vic= Bear Gap, PA

B>

Reply to
Vic Klein

Jim: How does she ride in the snow?

I bought a Suzuki Volusia in Sept., after a 27 year hiatus from two wheels, and I don't have the cohones to try it in the snow. :-)

-Steve ('94 EB 4x4)

Reply to
SASCHOCH

The Old Yammer, I would consider - but this is my first brand new bike. I can only imagine how I will react to it's first scratch 8^(

Jim Warman snipped-for-privacy@telusplanet.net

Reply to
Jim Warman

Congrats Jim! You called it. After looking around and not finding the IAC, called the Ford dealer. They told me it's behind the intake near the manifold. I bit the bullet and took to them to have it fixed (IAC = $101.80). It runs like a top again. Actually helped the sluggishness, too, with better get up and go.

Thanks everyone for your coments.

Reply to
Bones

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