Well, I won't argue with you. I am an electronics tech. The connectors are good for indoors, not outdoor use, and I darned sure wouldn't want to use them anywhere movement is involved or hi humidity. The problem is that mot, if not all folks that are not degreed technicians will not use anything else. Soldering under the dash is hard enough, and with limited space, additional problems are the risk of damaging an interior or other wires and components. Most people hooking these devices up are not certified or degreed electronics technicians, but the worst that could happen with these clamp on connectors is they choose too small a connector and cut the conductors, or that they become loose and intermittent. Yes, a soldered splice is preferable, but if the person installing doesn't know what they are doing, it is a mess to repair ( I have seen too many just cut the connectors off, rather than splicing. The use of the clamp on connectors reduces potential liability from damage.
"Jim Warman" wrote in message news:5ACBd.40976$KO5.3351@clgrps13... | Not to be contrary, John.... ScotchLok style connectors have created more | grief than most other styles. They aren't much good for any real kind of | current draw... indeed, they cut some of the conductor strands as they are | crimped into place. They can loosen up with time, especially when ANY kind | of motion or vibration is introduced. Lastly, the copper conductor is left | exposed to the air. Not bad in dry climes but any kind of moisture will | start the sulphation process (the wire strands first turn black and then rot | away to green dust). This condition is more prevalent in exterior | applications but can appear in the confines of the cabin as well. | | My own preference is to solder and heat shrink where I can. For tap | connections, I use wire strippers like these |
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to nip the| insulation each side of my target..... then I use a sharp utility knife to| skive off the small bit of offending insulation (you need to be careful to| avoid cutting copper strands). Wrap the new wire tightly around the existing | wire, solder the connection and either wrap it tightly with good quality | electrical tape or carefully apply brush on electrical tape. While a bit | time consuming, this method guarranties a good, long lasting connection and | no comebacks. | | | "John Riggs" wrote in message | news: snipped-for-privacy@individual.net... | > These days, if it doesn't already have an adapter made for it, the | guys | > will use the clamp on splicing taps, so the original wiring is left | intact. | > I really like these for this very reason. | >
| > "Jim Warman" wrote in message | > news:KNBBd.40679$KO5.38371@clgrps13... | > | Sorry, man.... there's just not enough info here. | > | | > | Start by checking fuses.... most aftermarket stereos will require at | least | > | one "hot at all times" and one "hot in run/accessory". Does the display | > | light up? Did you use a commercially available adapter harness or did | you | > | (shudder) do the old cut and splice. If you did the cut and splice, are | > the | > | connections soldered and heat shrinked, butt connectored or twist and | > taped? | > | | > | I can only suggest to triple check your work. Most times, recovering | from | > an | > | electrical hack job is harder (read that as spendier) than paying to do | > the | > | original installation. | > | | > | "tombo" wrote in message | > | news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com... | > | >
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