Rear end whine on '03 Explorer

I'm coming up near the end of my extended warrantee on my '03 Explorer and I'm hearing some whine from the rear end. Is this subject to a TSB or is it a known issue? I'm at 70k miles and have never towed anything with this car.

dave

Reply to
Dave Morrison
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Ford replaced my '03 before the warranty ran out. Search the group and look about a year ago. Yes they know about it. I don't know if they will at 70k though. Good luck

Reply to
Richard

Reply to
Dave Morrison

See if you must go to a Ford Dealer to get coverage under your warranty. If not, then go to some non ford specialty shop that does rear ends and ask them for their opinion of the noise. Most likely they will say it should not make it. Have them do the work AFTER getting it authorized by the warranty company.

Reply to
Ashton Crusher

I have a regular mechanic (oil, brakes, alignments, etc.) and he noticed it right away. In fact, he had an Explorer of his own that required a ring and pinion gear replacement. My warrantee is the standard Ford Extended Warranty and it runs out at 75k so I need to get this addressed soon. I'm not sure if Ford will pay another shop for their warranty work. I'm also getting noise from (according to the same mechanic) my brake booster (vacuum boost?) as it is now making a rubbery squeek sound as I press the brake pedal....it never ends, huh?

Also, if anybody else is still reading this thread, have you guys/gals had repeated problems with door switches (the ones that indicate a door is ajar)? I've had to have my driver's door switch replaced about 4 or 5 times since I've owned this '03. They seem to last about a year before they start to act up. Is the door switch on these Exploders located inside the door? They don't use the old-fashioned dead-man pin switch like I'm used to.

dave

Reply to
Dave Morrison

The switch is part of the latch assembly. When a switch acts up, get a spray can of electrical contact cleaner (or WD-40 if you are lazy) and spray into the latch mechanism from the rear edge of the door. I am talking about the mechanism that mechanically latches the door to the striker mounted on the body. Flush it good. The switch should start to operate properly again. I don't know why, but it seems a lot of grease and grime work into the switch via the latch mechanism and interfere with the proper operation. My later Fords have not shared this problem. I thought they had corrected it before 2003, but I guess not for all models.

Ed

Reply to
C. E. White

Drivetrain - Rear Differential Whine/Hum Noise

TSB 05-23-3

11/28/05 REAR AXLE NOISE REPAIR FORD: 1997-2005 Expedition, F-150 2002-2005 Explorer LINCOLN: 1998-2005 Navigator 2003-2005 Aviator MERCURY: 2002-2005 Mountaineer This article supersedes TSB 05-12-6 to update the Service Kit and Service Procedure information. ISSUE Some vehicles may exhibit an axle whine or hum during acceleration, deceleration and/or cruise. ACTION An axle repair kit has been developed which incorporates most parts required for a comprehensive axle repair. The kit should be used instead of installing a complete axle assembly to repair an axle whine/hum. Replace Ring and Pinion with Axle Kit and Components. NOTE REFER TO THE "DIFFERENTIAL RING AND PINION" IN-VEHICLE REPAIR PROCEDURE IN THE ONLINE WORKSHOP MANUAL SECTION 205-00, FOR THE LATEST AXLE DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR PROCEDURES. NOTE FOR 1999 AND PRIOR MODEL YEAR VEHICLES, USE THE 2000 MODEL YEAR WORKSHOP MANUAL. NOTE WHEN SERVICING THE REAR AXLE ON ANY 2002-2004 F-150, EXPEDITION, NAVIGATOR, EXPLORER OR MOUNTAINEER BUILT BEFORE 3/30/2004, IF FLUID REPLACEMENT IS REQUIRED, REPLACE THE ORIGINAL FUEL EFFICIENT HIGH PERFORMANCE (FEHP) SAE 75W-90 REAR AXLE LUBRICANT WITH SAE 75W-140 HIGH PERFORMANCE SYNTHETIC REAR AXLE LUBRICANT. WHEN THE FLUID TYPE IS CHANGED, REPLACE THE CURRENT "FEHP" METAL TAG WITH A NEW "75W-140" TAG (F3TZ-4121-AA). IN ADDITION, REMOVE OR BLOCK-OUT THE FEHP REFERENCE ON THE MULTI-COLORED LABEL LOCATED ON THE RIGHT SIDE AXLE TUBE. IF THE AXLE IS A LIMITED-SLIP MODEL, USE XL3 ADDITIVE FRICTION MODIFIER IN THE QUANTITY RECOMMENDED BY THE WORKSHOP MANUAL. KIT ORDERING: REFER TO THE VEHICLE AXLE TAG FOR AXLE RATIO IDENTIFICATION ^5L3Z-4209-A = (8.8-Inch Ring Gear/3.31 ratio) (1997-2005 F-150) ^5L3Z-4209-B = (8.8-Inch Ring Gear/3.55 ratio) (1997-2005 F-150, 2002-2005 Explorer/Mountaineer/Aviator) ^5L3Z-4209-C = (8.8-Inch Ring Gear/3.73 ratio) (1997-2005 F-150, 2002-2005 Explorer/Mountaineer/Aviator, 2003-2004 Expedition/Navigator) ^5L3Z-4209-D = (9.75-Inch Ring Gear/3.31 ratio) (1997-2005 F-150, 2005 Expedition/Navigator, 1997-2002 Expedition/Navigator) ^5L3Z-4209-E = (9.75-Inch Ring Gear/3.55 ratio) (1997-2005 F-150, 1997-2002 Expedition/Navigator) ^5L3Z-4209-F = (9.75-Inch Ring Gear/3.73 ratio) (1997-2005 F-150, 1997-2005 Expedition/Navigator) NOTE 9.75 REAR AXLE HOUSINGS WERE REDESIGNED IN MID-1999, INCREASING FRONT PINION BEARING SIZE. REPLACING RING & PINIONS IN AN OLD-STYLE AXLE ASSEMBLY WILL REQUIRE INSTALLATION OF SPACER P/N YL3Z4662-CA. SPACER IS TO BE INSTALLED BETWEEN INNER PINION BEARING AND COLLAPSIBLE SPACER. THE AXLE SERVICE KITS INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING COMPONENTS: ^4630 - Head Bearing ^4628 - Head Bearing Cup ^4676 - Pinion Seal ^386989-S2 - Washer (Slinger) ^4621 - Tail Bearing ^4616 - Tail Bearing Cup ^4222 - Differential Bearing Cups ^4221 - Differential Bearings ^4209 - Gear Set (includes pinion shims, pinion nut and crush spacer) ^4209 - Instruction Sheet NOTE THE KIT DOES NOT INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING ITEMS. SOME OR ALL OF THESE ITEMS WILL BE REQUIRED TO COMPLETE THE AXLE SERVICE, DEPENDING ON AXLE APPLICATION/STYLE. ORDER AS NEEDED: NOTE REUSE OF RING GEAR BOLTS, CARRIER BEARING CAP BOLTS AND DIFFERENTIAL SLAVE PIN RETAINING BOLT REQUIRES CLEANING OF THREADS AND INSTALLATION OF TA-27 STUD AND BEARING MOUNT RETAINING COMPOUND & SEALANT. ^YL3Z-4662-CA - Pinion Bearing Spacer for 1997-1998 9.75 axles ^XG-14 - Gear Marking Compound ^4067 - Differential Shims 0.241" to 0.307" ^SAE XY-75W140-QL - High Performance Synthetic Rear Axle Lubricant ^XL-3 - Additive Friction Modifier (Limited Slip Axles Only) ^205-506 - Seal Protectors (Rotunda Tool) ^W710084-5439 - Wheel End Nuts ^390266-S199 - Differential Slave Pin Bolt (9.75" axles) ^387426-S100 - Differential Slave Pin Bolt (8.8" axles) ^4B422 - Axle Circlips ^ZC-21 - Metal Surface Cleaner ^TA-29 - Ultra Silicone Sealant ^TA-27 - Stud and Bearing Mount Retaining Compound and Sealer ^F3TZ-4121-AA - Fluid Tag (REQUIRED IF FLUID TYPE IS CHANGED FROM FEHP DURING REPAIR)

WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

052303A 1997-2002 Expedition, 4.7 Hrs. 1998-2002 Navigator, 1997-2004 F-150 Heritage, 2004-2005 F-150: Rear Axle Noise Repair (Includes Time For Road Test To Verify Concern (Beam Axle)) (Do Not Use With 4205A Or 4205A4)

052303A 2003-2005 Expedition: 5.8 Hrs. Rear Axle Noise Repair (Includes Time For Road Test To Verify Concern (lrs Axle)) (Do Not Use With 4010D Or 4010D4)

052303A 2003-2005 5.9 Hrs. Expedition/Navigator With Air Suspension: Rear Axle Noise Repair (Includes Time For Road Test To Verify Concern (lrs Axle)) (Do Not Use With 4010D Or 4010D4)

052303A 2002-2005 6.6 Hrs. Explorer/Mountaineer, 2003-2005 Aviator: Rear Axle Noise Repair (Includes Time For Road Test To Verify Concern (lrs Axle)) (Do Not Use With 4010D Or 4010D4) DEALER CODINGCONDITION BASIC PART NO.CODE

420914

OASIS CODES: 509000, 590000, 597997, 702000, 702200, 703200, 703300,

703400, 790000
Reply to
C. E. White

Thanks so much, Ed. And thanks for the TSB in your later post. Tell me this....how do dealers feel about customers who come in with a TSB in their hot little hands? Do they appreciate the legwork that you've put in or are they annoyed that you are telling them how to do their job? Just curious.

Is the switch itself located back near the latch mechanism? From your description it would appear that it is but I've never actually seen the mechanism. I got a little "testy" with the last service writer dude when, after my 3rd replacement switch (and the loss of my hours spent in their waiting room), I asked him if I was going to have to expect this same failure every 10-12 months. He wasn't very helpful with his answer and claimed that they were using the correct parts and that "sometimes parts fail". I can understand that, but this is such a chronic problem and it affects (or CAN affect) the entire car when it fails. If you think that's overstated, do a search of the archives here and see what happened when this same dang switch failed about a year ago right in the middle of a battery replacement!! THAT one kept me hopping for days.

dave

Reply to
Dave Morrison

messagenews:46e6bbc8$1@kcnews01...

The switch is attached to the latch latch mechanism and can be replaced separately. See

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a picture of the switch. I believe crud contaminates the switchpluger and keeps it from moving as it should. Spraying WD-40 orElectical Contact cleaner into the latch "moves" the crud and allowsproper movement.

As for Dealers and TSBs. These are not secret documents. You can get a list of TSB for your vehicle from

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or fromNHTSA. Once you know the TSB number, you can search for it on the web.There are many sites that post at least some of them for free. If youare willing to pay, Alldata will sell you a subscription, or you canpurchase temporary access to the TSBs from Motorcraft (see
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). Some dealer willingly share the infomration, some would ratherkeep you in the dark. Most good service writers are aware of commonTSBs (like the rear end whine TSB). They may play dumb, but they haveaccess. Given the amount of information on the Internet, no servicewriter should be surprised if you show up with a copy of a TSB. Theymay play dumb, but it just an act (at least I hope no dealer hasanyone that dumb as a service writer). Unfortunately, there are noTalways TSBs for common problems. Ford has an internal serviceinformation sharing service, OASIS, where problems and solutions areshared. I find
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a good palce to get additionalinformation on problems. Ed

Reply to
Ed White

messagenews:46e6bbc8$1@kcnews01...

I had my TSB printed out and laying on the passenger seat when they took it for a test drive to find the problem. They didn't say a word about it except " You probably know some of them have a problem, we will take care of it" I had about 500 miles left on the

36k warranty.
Reply to
Richard

Just a quick update on my whining rear end issue. Since I thought I'd only be wasting a day or two at the Ford dealer on the rear end, I figured I'd also get a couple other annoying issues taken care of at the same time. So, instead of a day or two, the '03 Exploder was in the shop for four days! Here's what they did (all covered under my Ford Extended Warranty less $50 deductible):

  1. Rear end whine - the mechanic who did the road test with me could hear the noise, but thought it would only be a rear bearing. However, they replaced the ring and pinion along with a bearing and shaft seals. Noise gone and it's dead quiet now.

  1. A/C or heater blend door - this thing had been giving me problems for quite a while; it would allow a TON of air to be sent to the defrost vents instead of the regular vents; apparently this involved taking a lot of the dash apart and replacing the housing too; I'm guessing that this repair was the one shown on one of the DIY sites where they show how to repair the bad shaft, right?

  2. Squeak in the brake pedal - I thought that this was simply some rubber boot rubbing against a metal shaft that would make a rubbery squeek sometimes when I'd apply the brake; my regular mechanic thought it was the vacuum booster; they replaced the master cylinder instead; no real difference to the feel of the pedal or brakes, but the darn squeek is gone

All in all, I think I got my money's worth out of my Extended Warranty and I still have about 4,000 miles left on it. I still have the sporadic and annoying door switch issues and (related, I think) I have an issue with a darn warning chime going off while I'm driving down the road OR I'll get a warning light telling me that a door is ajar OR the doors will do their "automatic lock" thing after I've already been driving several blocks instead of right after the car starts moving. It's these darn intermittent electrical problems that are the hardest ones to pin down for the dealer to fix, 'ya know?

dave

Reply to
Dave Morrison

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