Request for suggestions on AC Compressor and Seat assembly

I see possible problems... First, of course, is the question of whether or not the system will physically hold the higher pressure. Then, there's the problem of the capacities of the system being able to make of the higher pressures, especially considering thaqt the higher pressure would mean higher temps of the compressed gas. Will the condenser be able to get rid of the increased heat in the comressed gas well enough to keep the expansion valve supplied with liquid instead of gas?

Why do you want increased compression?

Thanks Big Bill. There seems to be lots to consider. The mech. recomended to replace the compressor, but didn't have a convencing justification. There reason to replace the compressor is to achieve more cooling when the engine is idle or at very low speed like in trafic jams. I just find the AC is comletely not efficient. It doesn't blow cold-enough air to keep the compartment reasonably cold.

Maybe it just needs a fresh charge.

If your mech suggested a higher pressure compressor, I'd find a new mech. The first thing I'd check would be the condenser and radiator for partial blockage. They have to be clean for the fan to pull enough air through them to work efficiently when idling. Also check the belt for glazing. It could be slipping. Another possibility is a door not closing(or opening) all the way in your heater. A good A/C man could find your problem quickly if you're willing to spend a few bucks. H

A very good answer, indeed... A properly done performance test will include checking for any air flow obstructions through the condenser and ensure that the blend air door is traversing fully from one extreme to the other. Fan operation will also be tested during this procedure. Observing pressures and clutch cycling times and comparing these to ambient conditions (both in regards to temp AND humidity). If a definitive answer cannot be reached after this test, a recover and recharge is in order. All decent recovery machines will report both how much refrigerant was removed from the system (be sure that the tech knows about the ever present R-134 "burp" - more on that in the next paragraph) as well as how much oil escaped during the recovery process.

The "burp".... even after the recovery machine pulls the system to vacuum, we must wait for several minutes before opening the system or performing the deep vacuum process. Nearly 100% of the time, there will be a sudden surge in system pressure. The most plausible cause that I have heard is that R134a will become entrained in the remaining oil as well as the dessicant in the receiver/drier (R134a is an extremely small molecule, I'm told - hence the need for barrier hoses and special O-rings when compared to R12). To get a true reading of the weight of the refrigerant recovered, we need to weigh the "burp" as well as our first batch.

Once we know how much refrigerant was recovered, we can utilize all the info we have gathered to come up with our repair strategy.

Increasing the volumetric capability of the compressor without increasing anything else in the system makes no sense. The orofice tube is sized for the system... presenting more liquid 134 to the orofice tube will only increae the head pressure and result in compressor overheating rather than increased cooling (though some incresed cooling MAY be noticed... until the compressor pukes - not a cheap fix if you expect warranty on the repair).

While reputable shops will charge more for a repair, the actual cost is usually less since repeat failures and misdiagnosis are far less prevalent and are usually handled in a much more responsible manner.

I think John & Hairy are giving good advice - have another try at finding someone to fix the problem. On our 92 Explorer Sport, that's been changed to the new refrigerant with the original hardware, even here in Phoenix, the cooling is adequate at idle & oow speeds, so I would venture a guess that there's something wrong with your hardware. Good luck!

Dear all, Thanks for all the info and help, Ireally appreciate your advice. Can someone help me on item 2? The seat assembly? This is also important for me.

Well on the AC I have a couple of sugestions. Is the clutch fan if installed working properly? If it is slipping a little it will impact how much air is going through the condensor at idle and low speed. Not enough air and it is not very efficient. Also is you vehicle running hot or on the work side? Last ditch install an after market electric fan if all else fails you have to keep the engine compartment cool so the condenser will function.

A real longshot for number 1: I do not know if this is possible, but can the clutch pulley be replaced with one of a slightly smaller diameter, making the compressor rotate morre revolutions for the same engine rpm? I totally agree that before even researching to see if it can be done, make sure the system is functioning at 100%.

Thanks Budd, Seems that will go for this option. As the main reason seems to be the Condenser cooling. Also, may go for tinted glass. Cheer M8

Hope it works for you.