'02 Tarus AC condenser drain plugged or iced shut

Every couple of months my blower motor housing fills with water and begins to leak water on the passenger side floor. I believe that the AC drain is getting plugged and causing the water to back up. This
happens in the cold weather (around freezing) and when I leave the defrost on. I don't think there is a physical obstruction in the AC drain. Has anyone had a similar problem? Where and what is the control that tells the AC to turn on with the defrost? I hear that the AC comes on with the defrost when the temperature is above 50 degrees. I think my AC might be coming on all the time and icing the condenser drain shut at colder temperatures. Also where is the condenser drain so I can inspect it. (I don't have a garage and it's kinda cold out to lay on the ground so is this something I should take to the dealer?)
Thanks in advance for any help!
NC Boilermaker
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
NC Boilermaker opined in

It's usually a short nipple through the firewall below the Evap coil
If the compressor runs below 40 deg, disconnect the plug in the accumulator pressure switch.
On older cars, the switch is lower, adjacent to the rad on the passenger side.
--
- Yes, I'm a crusty old geezer curmudgeon.. deal with it! -

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Backyard Mechanic wrote:

Yep, it sounds like the evaporator is icing up. This is most likely due to the low side (accumulator) pressure switch not cutting out the compressor at the right temp. A new one is ~$15 USD. at the parts store. The AC runs when in Defrost mode to dehumidify the air, even in winter below freezing. Of course check the drain for obstructions first. I have to disagree with Backyard about pulling the plug on the switch though. I lost the compressor clutch coil on my '99 a few weeks ago. The window fogging was terrible on cold damp days until I fixed it.             Tom
Hey Backyard. Where did you get the 40 degree figure. I've heard other people say that the AC shouldn't engage below xx degrees, but I've never seen one that doesn't in 25 years? I looked at both the 99 Taurus and 84 MK VII today. It was ~28 degrees @ 75-80% humidity and both systems engaged in defrost mode. T.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Tom Adkins opined in

Meant the "temp cutout sw"

Same on my 84 Mustang, ran anytime. But my 93 Tbirds have the temp switch.. and the 95 taurus doesnt run below freezing either
But, that said.. I didnt read the original well enough.. as others said, if there's water in the blower housing, it's not condensation freezing.
--
- Yes, I'm a crusty old geezer curmudgeon.. deal with it! -

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
[This followup was posted to alt.autos.ford and a copy was sent to the cited author.]
snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com says...

If the water is dripping from the blower motor, it may NOT be a clogged drain. The AC evaporator is not above that. There is a rain shield above the air intake. If you remove the passenger side cowling in front of the windshield (open the hood, pull off 2 or 3 clips, then pull it up), there is a shield that is supposed to direct water off to the side. The Micron air filter and air intake is below that. Often, the shield becomes damaged when somebody (Jiffy Lube???) checks the air filter. They can break off a flap at the end that directs the water to the side. When it is missing, water drips directly into the filter. That in turn drips into the blower motor housing. Worse, that water then runs BELOW the carpeting, soaking the padding. If you don't get that dry, your car will start to smell like a swamp.
--
If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying!
All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I think you hit the problem on the nose. I took it to the dealership, because last night it was to cold and wet to work on it. They want $580 to replace the cowling, seal and blower motor. I don't think its worth that much money. Anybody know a good ford mechanic in Raleigh?
Andrew Rossmann wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
[This followup was posted to alt.autos.ford and a copy was sent to the cited author.]
snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com says...

I don't think there is any need to replace all of that if it is the shield that is the problem. Unless there were major changes from my 2000 (I doubt it), the shield is just a relatively cheap piece of plastic. It is part number F6DZ-54020C40-BB. I forget how much it was, but it was only $20-30 or less. It's easy to replace, as it's just held on with two screws. The tricky part is carefully sliding the flap to the side of the filter without tearing it off. I think some mechanics are in too much of a rush and try to replace the filter without removing the shield.
--
If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying!
All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I think you hit the problem on the nose. I took it to the dealership, because last night it was to cold and wet to work on it. They want $580 to replace the cowling, seal and blower motor. I don't think its worth that much money. Anybody know a good ford mechanic in Raleigh?
Andrew Rossmann wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.