my neighbor has a taurus, she thinks it an 04 or 05. one of the power windows wont go down, I dont hear any clicking or anything. Neither the master or the doors switch make any difference. I assume it cant be as simple as a fuse as there's probably 1 fuse for all 4 windows right?
Any suggestions? is it always going to be the motor in this case or is there a control box of some sort in between the motor and the switch?
Which door, & which switch?
The answer makes a difference.
Rob
left rear, no switch in the car will make it go down.
Inspect the components of the power window system to determine if any of the following mechanical or electrical concerns apply:
Electrical:
-Open power distribution box Fuse 12 (5A), 5 (5A), 7 (20A). -Fuse junction panel Fuse 23 (5A).
-Damage to wiring harness.
-Loose or corroded connections.
-Damaged switch(es)(would be my best guess)
-Relays in fuse junction panel
Check the wiring harness for obvious signs of shorts, opens, bad connections or damage.
If inspection reveals an obvious concern that is readily serviced, correct the concern before continuing with Inspection and Verification.
If the concern remains after inspection, connect the Rotunda New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 007-00500 or equivalent to the data link connector (DLC) located beneath the instrument panel to perform DATA LINK DIAGNOSTICS test. If the NGS responds with NO RESPONSE/NOT EQUIPPED for the GEM, GO to «Pinpoint Test B». If the DATA LINK DIAGNOSTICS test is passed for the GEM, retrieve continuous DTCs and execute self test diagnostics for the GEM to retrieve current DTCs.
If self test is passed and no DTCs are retrieved, go to the «Symptom Chart» to continue diagnostics.
If DTCs are retrieved, go to the Generic Electronic Module (GEM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index to continue diagnostics.
If the GEM cannot be accessed by the NGS, go to «Pinpoint Test B».
Rotunda Service Bay Diagnostic System (SBDS®) 001-00001 may also be used to diagnose this system.
PINPOINT TEST B: NO COMMUNICATIONS WITH GENERIC ELECTRONIC MODULE
² B1: CHECK OUTPUT FUSE 23 (5A) FOR SHORT TO GROUND ² B2: CHECK RESISTANCE ² B3: CHECK GENERIC ELECTRONIC MODULE ² B4: CHECK FUSE JUNCTION PANEL ² B5: CHECK PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM MODULE (IF EQUIPPED) ² B6: CHECK REMOTE ANTI-THEFT PERSONALITY MODULE (IF EQUIPPED) ² B7: CHECK POWER GROUNDS ² B8: CHECK LOGIC GROUND ² B9: CHECK IGNITION START/RUN INPUT ² B10: CHECK FUSE JUNCTION PANEL FUSE 8 (5A) ² B11: CHECK SIGNAL GROUND CIRCUIT 938 (BK/LG)It is sometimes quicker to have a dealer tech run through this procedure.
Another simple thing to try:
Have someone slam the door shut while another holds the down switch on the driver's door.
Rob
NGS tester! geeze, multi meter wont help me eh? I suppose I could still test for voltage at the switches but I'll start with the fuse box. Thanks for the info
You missed this just before the sig in trainfans post:
"Have someone slam the door shut while another holds the down switch on the driver's door". Somebody was being a real smart *ss tonight. :) He meant that you could completely follow the outlined diag proceedure as laid out in the Ford manual, or you could just slam the door hard with somebody holding the button! This is a good field test for the most common problem with Ford window motors, a "stuck" armature. A good slam will often free the motor up, at least temporarily.
oh I caught that at the end, just tried it and no go still on the window. Gave it 2 good slams and nothing, havent checked the fuses yet.
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