Would it be possible that a sticky brake caliber would be causing the
car to swerve when the brakes are applied?
I noticed this problem last winter before I stopped driving this car
earlier this year. It's been sitting since March and I'm just getting
around to getting it back to road worthy. I have new tires only one
year old and all pressures are equal. Tires are in great condition. I
had a four wheel alignment done last winter with little if any
improvement in correcting the swerve. I just replaced the right axle
shaft and front wheel bearing for a grinding noise which is now gone.
Still swerving. I also replaced the front brake pads and rotors.
But it just occurred to me, the old inboard brake pad on the right
front caliber was ground down to almost metal, whereas the three other
brake pads had an equal amount of lining left, about 1/8". Also the
inboard side of the right rotor was gouged up pretty bad.
While test driving the car this afternoon I got a whiff of brake smoke
and saw a bit of it coming from the front of the car at a stop sign.
Also, took a look at it when I pulled into the driveway and actually
saw a bit more coming out from behind the rim. Definately something
going on in there.
Could a sticky caliber be the culprit and how would I go about fixing
it, replace the caliber or is there an easier way, like greasing the
First, I'll deal with the "Language Nazi" in me...
caliBer is the inner diameter of the barrel of a gun.
caliPer with a > P < is what you have stopping your wheels.
Yes, a caliper could be the problem, plus a few other possibilities:
- slow to extend, lets the other side brake first, causing a pull.
- slow to release, pads keep rubbing, building up heat and wearing rotor,
and when there's too much heat, the pads "fade" and there's little or
no braking on that side, causing a pull.
Usually caused by corrosion from moisture in the fluid.
- piston applies inner pad, but caliper can't slide to apply outer pad.
- if it does slide, it may not return, causing outer to keep rubbing.
Use some high-temp silicone grease when assembling.
- inside surface may deteriorate, with a "flap" of rubber acting as a
one-way valve, keeping brake fluid from moving either to or from the caliper.
One way, the piston can't extend, the other way it can't retract.
> >> First, I'll deal with the "Language Nazi" in me...
> My apologies, I haven't typed that word since forever.
> >> Yes, a caliper could be the problem, plus a few other
> Picked up a new caliper and brake hose. For $25 in parts I'm
> going to
> replace them both rather than troubleshoot each component.
remember to bleed the brakes
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Sounds like you need to do a brake job on it, if you don't have a manual
for it you should probably get one as there are quite a few details in
doing one that you don't want to miss.
You need new pads and rotors for sure.
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