1990 Ford Escort GT - Remove AC Clutch

I am in the midst of replacing the timing belt and water pump. While I have good access to the AC compressor and clutch, I wanted to replace the AC clutch because the outer ring is just hanging there loose. Not
sure why it separated from the clutch but it rattled horribly under load at highway speeds.
Anyway, what tools would I use to remove the AC cluch? I think a spanner wrench, but what else? Do I really have to energize the coil to remove it? A new clutch is cheap enough to replace.
Thanks
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No takers? Looking for a spanner wrench, no luck so far.
Thanks
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No takers? Looking for a spanner wrench, no luck so far.
Thanks
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In article
snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID 068& PartNo‘76&group_id660&store=snapon-store&tool=all
You'll also need a puller and installing tool to R & R the clutch and an assortment of shims to set the clutch gap.
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Thanks for the tip. I found a Ford T81P-19623-MH spanner wrench on ebay for $13, includes shipping. Alldatadiy specifies this part number and it looks like a mate to the hole patterns on the end of the clutch.
Can I just replace the seperated end-plate on the clutch? That is the only reason I'm messing with it anyway. I'm pretty sure the rest of it works, it always did until the end plate got loose.
Thanks
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

yes but will most likely have to buy the whole thing. does it have a bolt on the end of the shaft? if so I dont think you need anything special. if its a nut on the end you need a puller and installer iirc.
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Well I got the spanner wrench and the end came off no problem. Also with the end came what looks to me to be one of the clutch plates that was just hanging there, separated from the rest. The rest of the clutch is still on the shaft, and it looks like its staying there for now.
It's was a nut on the end, not a bolt, but no luck finding any "ford" specific pullers or installers, only GM pullers seem to be called out anywhere.
The end piece has some threads on the inside diameter, but that piece came off easily with the nut. Looking around the end of the clutch there does not seem to be anything a puller can grab onto. Was there a snap ring somewhere inside the clutch?
Thanks all!
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

This sounds like a 10P15C Nippondenso compressor used on many late 80s/early 90s Fords. The threads on the outside piece (clutch) are where the puller goes if needed. The pulley is held on with a big snap ring. Remove the smap ring and the pulley should wiggle off. Once the pulley is off, the coil has either a snap ring or is an interference fit (taps on and off with a RUBBER mallet). If the coil is not burned you need to replace at least the pulley and clutch. When the clutch plate goes, both are damaged. IMHO, replace the coil while you are there. If you bought a new clutch kit, you have all 3 pieces.
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Cool, I will look for the snap ring tonight, didn't see one yesterday.
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Wouldn't you know it, I pulled the radiator out, which wasn't hard, unbolted the compressor from the bracket, and surprisingly found a lot of slack in the lines allowing me to position it just right on top of the head. Peeked inside the clutch pulley to see the snap ring. Not a problem says I.
Until I found that none of my snap ring tips were long enough to reach the ring.... argh!
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Curious, if I energized the AC clutch off the battery would it pull the shaft in at all? Would I get better clearance to get in there with the snap ring pliers?
Thanks
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

No. It just pulls the clutch plate in about .020". The shaft doesn't move. Right angle snap ring pliers would help. The ones with replacable tips won't work because of the tension on the snap ring. Now you know why this stuff is so expensive to get done at a shop ;)
Just a thought: Why don't you remove the compressor? Life would be much easier. This is a good chance to reseal the system and you can rent a vacuum pump and gauges to recharge it. At Autozone the final rental cost is $0.
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easier. >> This is a good chance to reseal the system and you can rent a vacuum pump and >> gauges to recharge it. At Autozone the final rental cost is $0.
I have it unmounted but the hoses are still connected, it's sitting on top of head right now so I have a clear shot at the shaft well where the snap ring is located. There is slack enough in the flexible hoses if you disconnect the low side harness from the right fender wall. By resealing you mean replacing all of the seals on the compressor?
I was thinking about a R134A conversion. I suppose that would mean removing the hoses from the top of the compressor and draining/measuring the oil, and refilling with PAG. Also replace the dryer and expansion valve. You have the system flushed after you change the dryer?
Thanks sleepdog
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

The shaft seal yes, if it's oily around the shaft. Not the case seals. Mainly the o-rings on the compressor to line fittings and the o rings in all of the other hose fittings. About $6 total, cheap insurance that will usually stop 95% of the usual leaks in the system.

If you convert you would need to use Ester oil, not PAG. To do the job "correctly" you would need to flush the evaporator, condenser, the lines (except for the orifice and accumulator) and drain the compressor. Replace the accumulator and orifice. Add your oil divided throughout the stystem, pull a deep vacuum and charge with R-134 to about 80% of the R-12 charge.

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So I would have to flush everything first, then replace the accumulator and orifice. Unfortunately in the position I am in I can only replace all the parts now then flush later, which probably does not make sense. Maybe after the car is mobile once again I can get it flushed and replace the accumulator and orifice afterwards.
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Was just looking at a picture of the same compressor/clutch on ebay, I can probably get away with replacing the end plate, forgive me for not knowing the proper name. The end plate on mine seems to have separated from the part the connects to the shaft. So I'm thinking the pulley is Ok, just need to cannabalize another compressor somewhere for the end plate.
Thanks for listening...
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

Sleepdog, At least replace the pulley too. The front of it is the clutch surface and is probably damaged fron the clutch plate failure. It's too easy to do it at this point. Clutch service on this car isn't an easy job, no need to do it twice. Make sure you set the air gap between the clutch plate and the pulley. .010-.025. It's set with washers that go on the shaft before the clutch plate.
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I would replace the entire pulley but it is not obvious to me how to get it off the shaft. It looks like it is pressed onto the bearing, or does the bearing come out with the pulley? Can't seem to locate the right tool either. The alldata instructions aren't much help to the uninitiated. I don't have the compressor unbolted from the harness, and don't want to if I can avoid it, but I have some clearence with the engine mount off and the engine jacked up.
Wait, I just read your other message regarding the snap ring...
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