1993 Taurus TPS Throttle Position Sensor.

1993 ford taurus Throttle position sensor. the number i have on it is. F3DF 98989 can someone tell me what the heck the Ohms reading should be on this part. ?\
comes out of a 6 cyl 3.0 engine
I am reading approx 600ohms on the low side when i turn it , goes up to 3.6k Ohms. and its NOT jerkey.
I suspect its ok can can someone confirm this?
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I dunno about your auto zone, but the one by me wont do shit. Anybody know the proper readings on these things.
If someone has a working one maybee you could just pull it off and check to see what the specs are and post them here.
That way it would help everyone who im sure has run into this at sometime or another. Thanks .

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Measure it live. Closed throttle about .6 to .9 volts. WOT 4.1 to about 4.3 volts.

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Thanks for the advice. But i went to Autozone today and got a new one for $30.00 well of course the car is still running as shity as before. one thing i have noticed throught all this is that it seems to get worse the warmer the engine gets. and befor you ask, my thermostat is fine. car stays a nice COOL temp no mater how long i drive.
If anyone can advise anthing else im all ears.
I will repeat what ive replaced, Cap, Rotor, Spark Plugs. & now TPS Throttle position sensor. and no real signifigent change affter replacing any of these things. I also Cleaned a shitload of corrosion from Where the Coil wire connects to the Coil. Cleaned them both real good. Also Cleaned Ground battery terminal

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Check the coolant temperature sensor, and MAF sensor. I had a '94 Town Car that did some of those things, both were replaced and it did the trick.
Chris
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Or are you perhaps reffering to the MAP Sensor?

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No MAP on 93 Taurus, MAF it is.

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What's the fuel pressure?

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Now thats a Real good Question! Something i would love to know. Is there a a Gauge i can but for this? or perhaps a real simple way of telling what it is?

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In article
[snip]

Replace the spark plug wires. (which you didn't mention doing)
The corrosion is an indication that there is high resistance in the secondary.
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Did you try to pull the PCM codes? When the engine is cold, the engine is running in open loop mode and the PCM controls the timing and fuel injectors using permanent settings stored in a look-up table. It selects the parameters from the table based on sensor readings and modifies them based on a stored history. After the car warms up, it goes into closed loop mode. The PCM now adjusts the fuel injectors based on feedback from the O2 sensors (as well as the other inputs and the lookup table). I'd recommend checking the O2 sensors. You also need to read the PCM codes. A code reader for your car (pre-OBDII) should be fairly inexpensive. You can read the codes using a voltmeter also (see http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html ).
Regards,
Ed White
Techie wrote:

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Fuel pressure, basics, basics, basics.
wrote:

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You say it gets rougher and rougher. Does it smooth out again after it's been running for a while ?
wrote:

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Did you change the fule filter?
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