1995 Ranger, Dead Fuel Guage and Lazy Temp guage!

I have a 1995 Ford ranger Extend Cab with the 2.3L Duraspark II Motor. For about 3 years now the Temp guage won't go past the first line. This to me is not a big issue. Then the odometer stopped working, again
not a big issue. Now my freaking fuel guage is out and I don't even have the odometer to go buy so I'm dumbfounded on how much fuel I have! I actually want to find a solution to all three of these problems since I probably have to pull the guage cluster anyways.
Thanks! Lenny
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otown_legends snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

If so, they're all probably unrelated and just happen to involve the cluster. First thing to do is check and clean the connections on the back of the cluster, just in case. Next, get an EVTM or Ford Service CD for your truck off of Ebay. They're cheap and you need to have one to properly work on your truck.
1. Temp gauge. Locate the temp gauge sender on the engine. IIRC it's next to the thermostat housing. Disconnect and ground the wire going to it. The gauge should read full scale. If so you have a faulty sender or the engine thermostat is stuck open. (Just replace both. At this point you're long overdue for a new 'stat anyway). If it doesn't read full scale, the likely culprit is the gauge.
2. Fuel gauge. Same test, same results. The connector for the sender at the tank is almost impossible to reach so you will have to locate the wire somewhere in the harness to ground it. Possibly on the back of the cluster itself.(That's why you need the EVTM). The senders do fail quite often.
3. Odometer. If the Speedometer still works and the Odo doesn't, the speedometer head is faulty. If neither part works, it could be the speedo head but is more likely the Vehicle Speed Sensor in the transmission.
Couple of notes: If you need to replace the fuel tank sender, pull the bed off to replace it. It's much easier to do than dropping the tank. 30 minutes, 4 screws, 1 electrical connector, 8 bolts, 2 guys, and 6 beers. While it's off is a great time to do the rear shocks. It doesn't get any easier. If you live in the rust belt, look at the leaf spring mounts on the frame and the front to rear brake line where it connects to the axle hose while you have the bed off. I just add this because these areas are VERY prone to rust. I've done the mounts and brake line on 4 of these trucks in the past 6 months. If you live some place warm with no winter salt, well then.................can I come live with you ;)
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Well, I pulled the cluster out yesterday! Replaced all the illumination bulbs with blue LEDs from www.superbrightleds.com. I also cleaned up all connections including resoldering a few cracked solder joints on the speedo head. So now the odometer works and the gauge cluster lights up in bright Blue. The temp gauge is still dead along with the fuel gauge. I'm gonna try and test them next Sunday as sundays are my only day off!
Yeah, I live in FL. The truck has an estimated Mileage of 300,000. The Odometer stopped working back in 1998 at 176,326. I will tell you tho, the truck don't look a day over 3 yrs/36,000mi old. Here is a pic:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y201/1_Hot_Legend_L/DSC00314.jpg
And I figured it would be easier to do it by removing the bed. That's how I did it on my S-10 6 years ago!
Later! Lenny
Tom Adkins wrote:

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otown_legends snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Nice find if the odometer problem was bad solder joints. Being in FL, the spring mounts and brake lines should be a non issue. (Lucky &*%@#*&) In your case, it might be just as easy to lift the bed and test the fuel sender.
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