1995 Windstar shudder

Ok the check engine lite is on and it's got a nasty shudder about 40K and up. Although there seems to be an intermittent miss most times. I've changed the dpfe and that didn't fix it.
I know i may end having to get a scan for codes but i'm in canada and they want abit much for doing it. A couple quick questions to start. I have unhooked the fuel pressure vacumm hose (I wanted the vacuum for the egr for a quick test), should the motor idle etc change when i do that. It didn't. And (not really a question) but the idle appears to drop about 100 or so when i put it in gear. I don't remember that it normally did that but it might provide a clue to one of you. I'll be changing the fuel filter shortly (it may not help but it is needed) and as soon as i can find a fuel pressure guage i will be testing that. Any suggestions as to what it might be would be great. Thanks Robert
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Save yourself a lot of unnecessary expense and have the codes scanned.... Your MIL is trying desparately to tell you something and you aren't listening to it. By the time you're done throwing parts willy-nilly at it, the correct procedure will look like a bargain.
I'm not sure what you call "a bit much" for auto repair.... with our current gasoline prices, every day that you put necessary maintenance and repairs off could be costing a great deal in lost fuel mileage. Add that a motor vehicle is the biggest single investment many people make, it deserves to be cared for properly.... lest it become a misguided missle when one of it's safety systems fails. And we shouldn't forget that much of the country is exposed to some pretty nasty weather... I couldn't see me puttting myself at the whims of mother nature in a vehicle that could up and leave me stranded at 0dark:30 on a lonely stretch of road too far from a cell tower.

vacumm
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Its more likely a spark plug or wire although a fuel filter is a very good thing to change for preventative maintenance. Has it had a tune-up lately? If not, I would put plugs in it for sure. If it is missing and the light is on a code is probably set for the cyl that is dead/weak. Your EGR not working will not cause a miss. I think your EGR needs backpressure to open so idling wont do it. Idle dropping a little when put in gear is not a problem. Bottom line....look at the plugs and wires first, especially if it is a jerky kind of stuttering miss.
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Robert wrote:

A bit much or not, when the CEL is on the very first step is to read the codes. There are only a hundred or so things that will set a code and turn on the light. You've already wasted about $75 on a DPFE that you didn't need. No, the idle won't change when you pull the hose off of the fuel pressure regulator. If the engine has a miss, the RPM will drop when you put it in gear. The IAC can't make up for the RPM loss from the miss and the transmission load.
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Thanks for the rant Jim but it wasn't helpful in this case. I did an ask at one garage the cost of the scan. $70.95 before tax. That sounds abit much to me. Be that as it may I've noticed that I can occasionally smell gas while driving and the miss is not there if i drive with a heavy foot. So i suspect it is fuel related. Going to rent a tester for the injectors and check the resistance of each injector as well. Anyone else have a suggestion. Robert

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Robert wrote:

The problem is likely not an injector. They do fail occasionally, but very rarely. Why don't you rent a scanner instead of an injector tester. Like I said, when the CEL is on, the first step is to pull the codes. No good way to avoid it. Let me give you an example. Yesterday, the wife said the CEL was on in the 98 Taurus. One of the very common failures is the DPFE and I suspected that may be the problem. Actually, I was sure that was the problem because it is so common. Pulled the codes, sure enough P0440 was set. Purge flow solenoid was stuck open.
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Robert, see if you can go to autozone or kragen and let them get the code for you. If not by a cheap code reader. Did you read my post? Tune up lately?

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Do you mean there is no spark comming from the coil pack? Or you just figured out which cyclinder is missing?
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No spark at all. I'll do the resistance checks tomorrow and likely go to an autowrecker to get a replacement. I know one wrecker that won't charge me an arm and a leg and I can bring along my meter and test it before i buy. Robert

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Been so busy I didn't have a chance to update this thread. It was in fact the coilpack. Got one from a wrecker very cheap. Same coil pack is used on a 2000 toyota (i think it was). Runs like a charm. Of course now i have the ABS light on. I'll figure that one out i hope. Robert

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