Two weeks ago i had camshaft position sensor and synchronizer replaced.
Now the car is acting the same way it did before i had it replaced but its
not the above again. When the car is cool it runs fine as soon as it is
warmed up about 25 minutes of driving it acts up it cuts out-when i push
on the gas the rpms go up but it acts like it is not getting gas any
suggestions or questions u have that could better help u make
suggestions-I am all ears!
Thank u the converter has been checked I was also wondering about the fuel
pump(pressure) and the coolant sensor! The mechanic is putting a new
filter on just in case because it has never been done its original filter
and also the coolant sensor. Any other ideas would help so keep them
coming I appreciate it and I will update u on what it was!
tell him to maker sure cam sensor is syconized
you need a special tool
i hope he has it
i bet he eyeballed it
the shaft also wears
prolly what caused the sensor to go
in first place
remove sensor make sure no magnets are moving around broken in side
the put it on using SPECIFIED tool
there are 2 kinds one is not your application
your problem sounds like sensor is out
Actually the sensor and the synchronizer where bad car was align with the
special tool and i saw the tool it was for the 3.0 which is mine. The
synchronizer was chewed to hell I don't get that but anyways that is
common with theses cars. I researched that. Ran fine for two weeks on
long trips and all now it just started this. Only cost 350 for that
because he let me get my own parts and gave me my old ones. He runs the
obdII and nothing comes up I will let u all know that i am not being taken
at all. Ford dealership wanted well over 650 for the above. So I asked
for helpful comments not snide remarks thanks anyways!
I think we need a better description of your problem. If it does it EVERY
time its warmed up, exactly what it does, ect. If it does it every time its
warm it should be easy to find. Maybe you need a new mechanic? One that will
diagnose the car, not just guess and throw parts at it based on your
description. The way to start the diagnosis is drive the car.
just as a side note: I've done quite a few cam sensors on Taurus' and they
all ran fine, just had the CEL on.
Ok better description
1.) It does it when it has been driven about 20-30 minutes
first it starts to run like it is not firing right
then it starts to lose power as in no fuel, rpms go up if i pull over
and turn it off then on again in a matter of 2 or 3 minutes it then runs
fine for a little bit but again starts doing the same thing
I have never had a problem with the tranny it shifts up and down great
never a slip or anything
2.)I had sensor and synchronizer replaced definately the problem the hulls
effects switch( i think thats how it is spelled) was torn and mangled
3.) Just had the fuel filter replaced because it was original and
regardless I am sure it needed to be replaced. Cheap and easy job.
4.) Before all the problems started every once in a while when i would go
to pass someone going about 60 it would shutter no rpms went up just
shutter. Let off the gas and lightly step on the gas problem was
On Fri, 13 May 2005 18:05:27 -0400, "twistedsister"
You NEED a fuel pressure guage installed for a test run. See if the
fuel pressure stays up or drops when the engine stutters. Sounds like
a classic case of a blocked pre-filter in the tank. (usually due to
dirt in the tank - rust, etc) When the pump has sucked enough crap to
the "sock" the engine can't get enough fuel any more. Shut it off and
the crap falls off the bottom of the sock and you are good to go for a
few more miles.
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