My local garage mechanic said that the growling sound coming from the rt front of my 96 Sable S/W 3.0 V6 is the water pump bearing starting to fail. He said that eventually water will begin leaking from the pump. He said the part is cheap, but the whole front of the motor has to be disassembled just to get to it. Is this correct? Is this the type of job a backyard mechanic like me can do? Special tools required etc etc ????
Thanks
Growling noise... probably water pump. Not sure if this engine has a belt or chain, I know my 3.0 Duratec has a chain, so maybe yours does too. Not sure if when the pump totally goes if it can muck up your chains, etc. if it seizes. You wouldn't want that to happen. A belt is cheap and not hard to replace on a small motor, I know I've done it before, but chains... think about it. Could screw other stuff up you don't want to fix. Yes, the whole front of the motor parts would have to be removed and put back in good order just to fix the pump. Easy on a 4 banger, tough on a V6.
Get a haynes or chilton manual and read up on the procedure, then decide if you're up to it. Good luck.
Well, I was going to email you a copy of the instructions but it looks like you are hiding behind a fake email address, so never mind.
John
On Tue, 12 Sep 2006 21:52:09 GMT, John Horner wrotF:
Sorry, John. The fake email address is to foil the spam email harvesters. If you'd still like to help me, my email address is:
snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net
Remove the NOSPAM and that's my address. Even if you don't reply, I still am grateful that you read my need and was willing to respond.
Best regards,
Joe
How savvy a backyard mechanic are you? Also, how cheap, er, frugal are you?
I'm the guy who will tear something apart and do it myself if it will save me a few bucks. A $19 vacuum line and $200 labor cured me of that real quick.
If you've done a water pump on a North-South engine before, I'd say don't be afraid to tackle this job. Just count on it taking some extra time.
FWIW, if you ever need to replace a speed sensor on a 3.0 Vulcan Taurus/Sable, let me know.
On Thu, 14 Sep 2006 01:29:03 GMT, "GMach3" wrotF:
The speed sensor on this same car went bad about a month ago 200 miles from home. I watched my son replace it in his garage. He had to drop the engine cradle about 6 inches and pull the upper wheel suspension free and then snake his hands in to get at the nuts holding the thing in, but he got it!
I own a 70 Duster 340 and it's a pleasure working on everything. It's right there in front of you.
I guess I'll tackle the job. The alternative is to junk the car and I have too much into the car to do that ($2500 in suspension and brake rebuild just 3 months ago). It's a station wagon and I use the extra space all the time. The motor is fairly new too.
I've got lots of time today. If it doesn't work out... hey... all it cost me is the price of the water pump.
Best regards.
On Thu, 14 Sep 2006 01:29:03 GMT, "GMach3" wrotF:
Well, I done did it. Turned out to not be as difficult as I thought. BTW mine was a V6 Vulcan motor. Took me 6 hours at a slow pace. FYI for any who will want to do this too, some tips:
After you remove the belt and disconnect the battery, it's easier if you
Cost me $49. Garage cost was $255 + any antifreeze they would need to add.
Glad it worked out for you. On the speed sensor: Funny how he dropped the engine. I was just a contortionist with a neighbor holding a flashlight for me. ;-)
not *that* hard. just takes time. The thing that makes it hard is the engine is so close to the frame on the side. That, and it can be a bitch to clean the old gasket off. But still its doable....
"46erjoe" wrote
Don't forget to pray to (insert your favorite omnipotent entity) that none of those bolts snap off, leaving the threads seized in the front cover.
Which I took to mean it must be a Duratech, cause if you can SEE the whole water pump you dont have to 'remove the front part of motor'
Woulda helped.... I've done my 3.0 vulcan on a 95 taurus, assisted on another. up to 95:
then proceed
It's not too bad, even without dropping the subframe. That is, as long as the sensor isn't frozen into the trans which is getting more common as these cars age. It then requires trans removal.
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