1999 Duratec DOHC Ford Taurus Not Blowing Air Anymore

Hi there, I was hoping you could advise me on a problem I'm having on a 99 Taurus. I bought it 'used' in March this year, and I guess I bought someone
else's headache. I have the DOHC 24V engine. I was out driving today, and stopped at a light. I put the car in park, jumped out to get something out of the trunk, and when I got back in the car and put it back in drive, the A/C cut out. It was blowing at 'high' speed, and literally just quit. I tried both heat and air, and NOTHING blows out. I just had it "recharged" two weeks ago.
We popped open the glove box, and checked for condensation, but everything seemed dry. Still, my husband took the harness off, waited a few seconds, then reconnected it to see if the blower would restart. That didn't work. Then he disconnected the black/grey connection and waited, then reconnected. No start. We replaced the blower motor; no go. Replaced the resistor. Nothing. :evil:
Tested with a voltage meter, husband says he's got juice (not sure if he really knows what he's looking at--he's good at cars, but not great.) He says when he put the new resistor in, it was blowing, but when he put it in gear, it quit again. I'm not sure I believe that, but is there anyone who can please tell me what might be the likely source of my problems? Should I buy a relay or switch? The cooling fan (the one by the radiator) is on almost constantly--is this related? I have a CEL on, but the guy who scanned it said it was O2 sensors on bank one, and dammit, they're not cheap, (130 for the pair!!)
I can change a tire or the oil, but I'm not very mechanically adept when it comes to things like this, and I'm DEFINITELY not in the market to go back to the dealer again. If someone can email me to walk me through what I should do to make this thing right, I'd appreciate all the help I can get. Thanks for any help, Shannon Loftis snipped-for-privacy@aol.com Joliet, Illinois
PS LOVE the board!
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LoftisX4 wrote:

Look at the AC compressor clutch plate. Is it turning? If not, it's electrical to the compressor, which could be the low pressure switch, low refrigerant pressure, a fuse, or something else that keeps the electrical AC clutch from engaging. If 12 volts IS found at the AC clutch connector, it's most likely the clutch. If the AC clutch is engaged, is the liquid line to the evaporator (like a heater coil) getting cold/frosty? If yes, it's something in the AC control unit that's mounted in the dash. Don't put much faith in just having had the system recharged two weeks ago; it was charged because some refrigerant had leaked out. If the leak wasn't fixed (or there's a new leak), the refrigerant has leaked out again.
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electrical
refrigerant
clutch from

likely the

evaporator (like

control
had the

refrigerant had

refrigerant
Uhh, I think she's saying the blower motor isn't running all, not that it won't blow cold air...
To the OP, blower motors draw a lot of current. If you're sure the fuse is good, I'd guess there is an high resistance connection in the blower motor circuit. I don't have the wiring diagrams here so I can't point towards any specific component or location,
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Rick wrote:

Ahhh, right you are; my mind was still on another problem from someone else. Anyway, Ford has periodic high current connector problems, so it may be this (similar): http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article67.html
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Rick wrote:

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wrote:

You are correct as far as you go - but low refrigerant will not make theblower fan stop working - which is what I understand happened. There is a wiring or switch problem somewhere. Get a good manual, a test light and a VOM. Armed with a bit of patience you can track it down.
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I ran what you guys said by my husband, who was WAY lost. None of the manuals we have help us find the parts you're talking about. A lot of blather about EPA standards, etc and so forth. Can you tell me where the clutch plate is? Are we talking about the "wheel" that attaches to the motor? If so, then no, that isn't turning. And where is the fuse I should be looking at? He checked the box under the driver dash, and said everything looked good. Is there anyone in the Chicago area who could take a look at this? I'm scared to screw it up.
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LoftisX4 wrote:

If your husband checked the blower motor connector with a voltmeter and there was current at the connector and he installed a new blower motor (as you wrote earlier), it just about has to be this: http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article67.html
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On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 19:13:26 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@aol-dot-com.no-spam.invalid (LoftisX4) wrote:

Not 100% sure, but I suspect there is a fuse box next to the battery.
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the
of
where
Don't take this the wrong way, but if your husband is lost enough that he doesn't know where the AC compressor clutch is, you are right-it's time to take it in. You're needlessly spending time and money replacing parts in the hope it will work.
Unless you are familiar with vehicle electrical systems you need a good (Ford) service manual that has wiring diagrams and diagnostic routines to follow.
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On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 03:13:13 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@aol-dot-com.no-spam.invalid (LoftisX4) wrote:

I have a CEL on, but the guy who scanned it said it was O2

Don't count on it being the O2 Sensors. If the code is P0171 you've got more than a sensor gone - better than 90% sure.
The Duratec 24 valve engine is plagued by vacuum leaks between the IRC throttle body and the heads. Pricy little gaskets and a good afternoon's work to change them.

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Also, it's not just the A/C that won't blow. I have no heat blowing either.
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Yes I surmised that from your description of the problem, hence my suggestion there is a high resistance connection in the blower motor circuit. If he were to remove the connector from the blower motor, check for 12 volts, then reconnect and check again from the back of the connector that would tell everyone a little more.
If there is 12 volts with the connector removed and then none after it's reconnected, at least we know the circuit has continuity, although high resistance.
If there is no voltage even with the connector removed, then it's a circuit component (fuse, blower motor switch, connector, etc).
Good luck......
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Hey guys!
Thanks for all the tips. I finally decided I needed to bypass the husband and do this myself. I sat down with the wiring diagrams, starting testing. Found the problem: AND DON'T LAUGH. It was an eight-dollar relay up front. I pulled the starter relay, switched them, and presto, I had air.
<<sigh>> Fortunately, the parts store will take the motor back, so I really didn't spend more than I had to. Course, I COULD just keep the motor for the next time...LOL
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From now on, you take care of the car, and he can do the housework...
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You are also to be congratulated on your logical approach of using a wiring diagram. Well done-you saved yourself a lot of money and learned something in the process.
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