2.3l OSC Has Gas no Spark

Ok, the car died overnight. So I thought immeidatly it was the fuel pump. After listening to it, I can hear the pump running in the tank.
I am aware of the class action lawsuite V. FoMoCo in 2002 for the
defective Ignition Module that would fail at temp. However my problem is asymptomatic with this problem, as the car did not die hot, and will not start cold.
If i can not find a suggestion here I will endup buying a new distro w/ ignition module attached. (about $118 from Advanced) however I think I could use some Ideas, because I dont seem to have any juce coming from the coil to the (top of) the distro. anyhow.
so far
I changed the fuel filter, (after depressurizing the system) and there was a slight trickle of fuel from the gasline to the filter. After repalcing the filter I followed the repressureization <SP> routine. Nothing. I pulled a spark plug, and it had ashy white buildup. I replaced the plugs, and wires. Nothing The cap was badly worn, so i replaced the rotor and cap. Nothing. Then I checked to see if the timing had gone, I bumped the starter untill the distro. rotor pointed at the #1 plug wire, and slid a screwdriver in to tap on the top of the piston. Then I bumped the starter to spin the rotor around 180 degrees and slid the screwdriver back in and it went to the handle, so I feel the timing is ok. I replaced the Coil (cleaned the bracket and where it mounts to the block to ensure grounding)
as I said, Its getting gas, you can smell it when you try to turn the car over. no spark to plugs, no spark from coil. I dont want to spend another $100 dollars, if it is somthing small that I am overlooking, its happened before. TIA
_X_
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They DO NOT usually die hot! Not what I think you mean anyway... on the road or in traffic. They USUALLY die in the driveway or parking spot.
That is, the heat sink lube dries out, you bring the engine to temp... drive it, park it and next time you try to start, nothing happens.
get the 5 dollar tool and take the TFI off, you will find the coating all caky and hardening.. it's supposed to be greasy.
And AT THE LEAST get a 12v test lite!
Why would you buy a complete dist anyway..
And what is an "OSC"? If you mean HSC or OHC those are two different engines.. not that it matters here.
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As BM suggested get a 12V test light (probably about $2-$3). It will help you determine what's wrong before throwing $118 on a new distributor. The coil primary (low voltage side) should have two wires. One (typically red) goes to the ignition switch. Make sure that power gets to it in both 'Start' and 'Run'. If there is no power there, you have a defective switch or a wiring problem. Assuming everything is good so far, probe the other wire, while someone is cranking the engine for you. If the light is flashing, the ignition module is fine. If that's the case and there is no spark, the problem is on the high voltage side (coil secondary, distributor, or the wire between them). If the light is not flashing but steady on, the ignition module is probably the culprit (though it could also be the pickup inside the distributor). If no light at all on that side, unplug that wire, turn ignition to 'Run' and touch the coil terminal where that wire goes. If the light still won't turn on (and the red side has power), the coil primary winding is burned (Your coil primary may have a single connector with two contacts. If so you may need to unplug it and jumper the red side with a piece of insulated wire for this test. Jumpering it to the battery + will also work).

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Turning the distributor rotor 180 degrees is the same as giving the crankshaft one full rotation..... With the rotor pointing at the #1 cap contact, #1 will be at TDC on compression..... turning the motor so that the rotor is pointing exactly away from #1 should have the piston at TDC on overlap....
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I am definatly getting a spark now. After replacing the @#$@# Ignition Module ($80) but the timing must not be quite right now. Thanks for the help pholks!
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