I've changed my mind as to what I'd like to do with my '68 Galaxie 500 with
302. The engine need a bottom end rebuild, so I was first thinking maybe I'd
replace it with a stroked Windsor. Now I'm thinking I'd like to turn the car
into a great highway cruiser and even more practical transportation. I'm
thinking all-out mileage. It's already got the highway 2.80:1 rear end
gears, so I was thinking I could swap the engine and transmission for a
modern roller cam, fuel injected, computer controlled 5.0 with an AOD trans.
What kind of work would be involved in this? The engine should just drop
right in, but how about the transmission? Will it bolt right up? Does
anything need to be done to the transmission crossmember? How does the size
of the various automatic overdrive transmissions available for the 5.0
compare to the size of the FMX I've got in there now? Will I need a new
driveshaft or to have mine shortened?
How does the computer fit into all of this? Will it need to be reprogrammed
to be put into a '68? Is it worth it to have a computer and fuel injection
over a carbureted engine with an overdrive transmission? What kind of
drivability changes will I see with a fuel injected engine? How about
mileage? The main idea of this is to see a good increase in mileage and max
range with the car. It got about 17 MPG highway miles before it's engine
trouble. On fueleconomy.gov I see 24-25 MPG for 5.0 Crown Vics, and even 27
MPG for one of the 4.6 engines. What's the deal with the 4.6 and is that a
drop-in replacement like the 302? Anyway, I would be happy to have 25+ MPG.
Are there any emissions stuff on these engines (EGR maybe?) that if removed
would increase mileage? I assume that would be legal (I'm in NJ) since my
car is a '68 model year and had practically no emissions controls.
Finally, where do I get the parts I need for this? I would prefer to keep
this relatively cheap, but since the engine needs a rebuild anyway, I figure
this is the time to do it. What engine and transmission out of what vehicle
should I be looking for? What are my options and what parts would I need
from the donor vehicle?
Thanks for all the information and advice you can give on this. I won't be
doing anything with my '68 until next summer, but this idea just occurred to
me as I was calculating the mileage on my '67 Galaxie the other day (got ~15
MPG... not too bad I suppose). I'd just like to research it a bit and decide
how realistic and practical this is, perhaps keep my eyes open for donor
parts. Thanks again.
Sorry couldnt help it.
You need a wrecked 89 to 90 Crown Vic, to start with for the 5.0 version.
Then you need a paper copy of the Emissions MAnual (EVTM)... this will make
it easier to work with the wiring.
If you plan on modding it later, try to find a Police version.
I dont have to give you links for the Crown Vic site do I?
Another thing to try would be to get a 93 or so Mark VIII... this would get
you the DOHC 4.6 and some REAL potential power... but there's tons of
"extras" that go with the power train.
And NO you DONT gain anything by removing the remaining emissions stuff.. AND
I understand that some states insist the Emissions reqs follow engine year.
Yeah, tell me about it... I found this web site through a forum.
This stuff is a lot more pricy than I thought! Though for an increase of 10
or more MPG given correct gas prices it may be worth it vs. just rebuilding
the bottom end of the original 302. In the long run it may pay for itself,
figuring this new engine/trans would last 150,000+, or 15-20+ years
depending on how far I need to go and how often I drive the car. I'm
starting to get turned off to this idea... But I'm going to continue to
research it as a possibility.
Maybe rebuild the 302 in the car next summer and get an AOD, as the
transmission seems like it would be an easier swap. Then worry about the
engine later. I don't know... I'll continue to look at it as a viable option
and see what my funds will allow when the time comes. If worse comes to
worse I'll just keep driving my '67 'till I get an econo-box. The econo-box
I would be getting (for practically free) would be a Geo Prizm which gets
30+ MPG. I was figuring if my '68 could get 25+ MPG with an AOD and injected
5.0 I may as well drive the '68 and enjoy the comfort and luxury of a nice
large car, and the fun of a classic. I suppose it would be nice to not have
to deal with adjusting the choke when the weather changes drastically as
well. The thing I would like most about the injected 5.0 and AOD would be
the max range! 25 MPG x 25 gal = 625 mile range! Realistically I wouldn't
run it down to the last drop, but ~550 miles between fill-ups is awesome.
Maybe I'm being a bit over-optimistic but the crown vics get 25-27 MPG with
the 5.0/AOD so I'd imagine my Galaxie would be comparable to that.
Well I would love to talk to someone who has dome a 5.0/AOD swap into a
classic car, whether it be a full-size like mine or probably a more common
Mustang swap, it would be great to hear from someone who has done it the
cost and work involved. There sure seems to be a lot more than I thought.
The thought never occurred to me that I would have to get an idler for the
smog pump and plug the heads, or the whole serpentine belt thing. New
radiator would be needed due to the serpentine belt system and reverse water
pump. Then the electric fuel pump thing. The wiring seems to be more
involved than I thought too. The list just goes on and on!
Nonetheless, I'd still love to do this swap as I'm pretty much sold on the
mileage and performance of a modern injected and computer controlled engine.
Even if I've gotta wait longer than I thought to have the necessary funds,
so be it if it means a better end result. A stroked Windsor would be a hell
of a lot easier and probably a good bit cheaper too, not to mention would
kick the 5.0's ass, but I'd rather keep this car as practical transportation
and get a big block '67 Galaxie as my dream car years down the line. What
better way to keep it practical than getting kick-ass mileage and
-- Your 68 won't get the mileage of a newer car. It's not as aerodynamic and
it's a lot heavier. As far as swapping something much newer, it's not a bad
idea, but remember that you're only upgrading the motor and trans. The
electrics on an older car tend to wear out, especially the wiring. And the
weatherstripping, and the ......... and on and on and on.
Your 68 is full of old parts, so if you use it as a daily driver, you'll
wind up doing a fair amount of repairing. If you can do all of the work
yourself it may not be a bad deal. But if you have to pay someone, it will
become a huge sinkhole for all of your cash.
Every day is a good day- it's just that some are better than others.
Good point, I hadn't thought much about that. My Galaxie is actually about
100-150 lbs lighter than a modern Crown Vic... It surprised me too. :) But
being less aurodynamic will probably drop off a couple highway MPG, but
nonetheless, if a Crown Vic gets 27 highway MPG, then I may very well be
able to get near 25. Even if I'm grossly overestimating, it will surely be
significantly better than the 17 MPG I got previously.
That makes me think of something... What kind of gas do these modern 5.0
injected engines run on? My old 302 ran on 89... I'd prefer to run 87 since
the whole idea of this is to save money in the long run, as I plan to keep
this car for the rest of my life, maybe pass it down to my son/daughter way
down the line.
For over 6 months I had been using it as my daily driver. Right when I got
it from my uncle, who abused the hell out of it, I had to do a lot of
repairs to make it safe to drive. Since then I've made little repairs here
and there as things came up, but that was mostly within the first month or
two. I think by now I've taken care of most things that are going to be a
problem (whole brake system, tires, differential, dirty contacts,
alternator, voltage regulator, etc.). You are definitely right that wiring
is a pain. No one makes reproduction wiring harnesses for Galaxies (that I
know of), so I'm pretty much just left to do it myself when things break,
until eitehr a repro harness comes out or I decide to go for a generic one.
It all works fine now, so I'm not too worried about electrical stuff at the
moment. Thankfully the car has been garage kept for the vast majority of
it's life (it's sitting in my great grandma's garage right now) which seems
to have worked wonders in preserving the wiring vs. my '67 which was not
garage kept... Of course rust is virtually nonexistant on the '68 while the
'67 suffers badly. So I think I've got most of the stuff that typically
fails taken care of (except wiring)... But you're right, whenever you drive
a classic as a daily driver there will always be little things here and
there that will break periodically. I figure what the hey, eventually I'll
have a whole new car, right? :)
I have some old pics here... From 6-7 months ago methinks... The '68 looks
kinda ratty in some respects as I had just got it from my uncle (who abused
the hell out of it) about a week before I took the pictures. I've cleaned it
up fairly well cosmetically and taken care of most of the mechanical
problems since then. Still need a good trim piece for the driver side
fender... My local yard has 3 or 4 '68s, but all had dings or cuts in that
particular trim piece... Just my luck, eh?
Here are some pictures of my '67 when I first got it. It's amazing what a
couple winters and a blind old lady in a Mercury can do to a car...
- You're a car enthusiast.. you like to be different.. this will be
If you take your time you can find a donor wreck for about 1000.. that will
give you about 100,000 of remaining life without major overhaul.
I think I know where you can get a 93 Mark VIII DOHC for about 3 grand.
You can lighten it up and make somechanges to get better milage...
Remove weight, any crap with weight that doesnt serve a great purpose. Just
rebuilding the short block properly should increase milage some. Aluminum
pulleys, aluminum brackets. Fiberglass hood and fenders takes off a few
pounds. Look for useless crap that can be removed or replaced with lighter
crap. Electric fuel pump not mechanical. Anything you can do to reduce
friction on the motor. Make your engine eficient in use of air, spark and
fuel. Air Flow...increase air flow in the engine. Ditch the stock air
cleaner, but it will be colder starting up north unless you use a form of
intake heater. Aluminum wheels and good tires. Modern Fan Assembly
(Aluminum) Aluminum Water pump. Plastic Fuel cell(check local laws
reguarding fuel tank relocations.
When you remove stuff, fill a bucket with all the useless bolts and stuff
and pick it up, it weights alot! Dont throw the stuff away if you plan to go
stock or want to sell it!
My 64 Galaxy had a 390 Bored 30 over, edelbrock intake, lemans aluminum
valve covers, Accel super coil, headers, external electric fuel pump, holly
double pumper, etc...it got awesome milage, (till you tromped on the 4 bbl)
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com ).
On most cars just turning the air cleaner cover upside down gives you an
open element air cleaner. Works just as well as those chrome jobbies and
doesn't cost a dime. I've done this and noticed a difference in performance
at high rpm's (like passing on the freeway, or during a forced downshift
with an automatic) but for normal driving you don't see much difference.
Every day is a good day- it's just that some are better than others.
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