never read anymore of this thread. I can't take anymore. And thanks for
backing me up on the intergreated relay thing. I dont have a diagram for
that car but used to work on them all the time and though I remembered it
powered the ECM. Anyway have a good life.....:)
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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starts/runs when you jump it? If so check the big black box mounted by the
radiator (on top i think) (I think its called a power module or something
like that)for stuck on relays. Unplug that box and then check for your 4 amp
draw. The box is just a bunch of relays for the computer/cooling fans/ and
other things, cant remember.
OK, one more suggestion. We know you have a 4.55 amp draw. This is continuous,
whether the key is on or off or removed. Have you tried removing the plastic
trim from around the steering wheel and unplugging the connectors that go to
the ignition switch to see if this eliminates the current draw?
I've been to every auto parts store in the surrounding area, and they all
said they can't test the TFI module. I did the resistance checks from the
shop manual and the checks from
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3349/test.htm and they all seem
okay. As far as the load going away, I will try to clarify: Before, when I
started the project to find the ground, I hooked up the computer and the
battery, and then just starting unplugging shit untill it went away.
Eventually, i narrowed it down to the TFI module. That's when I did all the
testing with taking it off and the load going away. After that, I
inadvertantly found that with the TFI module off, the grounding wire would
still pull the current. So now it's like an either/or situation.
So today I went out there, hooked up the EEC and the grounding strap
(pulling 4.5 amps) with the TFI module installed but unhooked. Then I
unhooked the TFI module off the distrubutor itself, and the current started
fluctuating between 3.4 and 2.9 and back about once a second.
Any idea on what would cause this?
Shorts can be voltage dependent with semiconductors.
OK, you need to start from ground zero again and work your
way back up.
Assuming your cables and grounds are all ok, you need to get
to the bottom of the problem of this first and work your way
back the other way. You have either a bad battery or starter
if i were to speculate at this point. The other draw should not
affect this problem with a charged battery. I take it you had your battery
tested. That probably leaves the starter.
Mine on my 93 just failed. It was working fine. Then my wife went
out and heard a clunk with the starter switch, but no spinning sound.
I cleaned my battery posts and there was no change. Took the starter
off and noticed the solenoid loose. Changed the starter and it was fine.
There is a slightly hard to get to ground connection on one of the starter
mount bolts that you might want to clean and retorque down
before you jump to replacing parts. This lugged ground goes directly to the
battery as i recall.
You need to get your motor spinning with the starter, then work from
that point. starter? battery? wiring? that's the first mystery you need to
solve. Once you get the motor truing over, then work your way to
your ignition problems.
I wish i could tell you exactly what to change and solve your problem.
With limited resources and equipment, its a tough call to tell you to
replace this or that at this point. Just get the motor to turn over and
work from there. You have had many good suggestions on what
to check from many people here on the group.
I will consider myself lucky that most of my local autoparts
stores will test many parts for free and do code scans for
free. I guess in california, there is some anal prohibition against
this. Maybe Arnold can set them straight.
Good luck on your repairs..
In some previous posts, people were discussing the IRCM and the EEC, and the
control of those two. Heres my question. When I take the EEC and Battery
completly out of the damn car, hook up the positive terminal to pin 4 and
the negative terminal to pin 49 on the floor of my house, the drain is
there, completly seperate of the car and anything else. The same thing
happens with 3 different computers: the original one, a brand new one, and
one from a junker. Is this normal? Or is there something in the IRCM that
controls the power through the EEC, and fails closed if you unplug it? That
would seem like a silly way to do business
This is 18 years of electrical troubleshooting experience. Right now, you need
to forget about the drain. Completely, utterly forget about it. Hook everything
up the way it is normally hooked up. Verify the connections on the solonoid are
secure. I'll tell you right now that 12.04 volts is NO GOOD for a good battery.
My mustang has not been driven in over a year. Not even started, and it's
battery is 12.41 vdc. My daily driver Taurus is at 12.39vdc. Again, 12.04vdc is
not right. Have someone try to start your car while you measure battery
voltage. Measure it at both the actual battery post and on the cable terminal.
The voltage shpould be the same. If it has any significant voltage drop when
the key is turned to start, you have a battery issue. Please post the voltages
you get on the battery with no load, and then when an attempt is made to start
the car. Make absolutely positive the post connections are good.
I think one of two things happened. One: He found it was actually a very simple
issue and is too embarrassed to mention it any more after making such an issue
about it. (or) Two: he got tired of us not buying into the super technical
difficult troubleshooting scenario he was playing and decided to take it
My bet is on number one.
I was just curious. I know a guy with a truck that was mysteriously
draining the battery totally dead in two days. He replaced the battery
twice, same deal. The cause was a stuck switch on one of the power seat
buttons, which was drawing 4 amps. The power seats are operational with the
key off. It took a shop 3 hours to track it down for him, and to my
surprise, only charged him 1.5 hours.
Have a nice day!
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