89 Taurus killer electrical ground

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never read anymore of this thread. I can't take anymore. And thanks for backing me up on the intergreated relay thing. I dont have a diagram for that car but used to work on them all the time and though I remembered it powered the ECM. Anyway have a good life.....:)
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Hey Bob.... I give up, Im leaving now, I am going to promise myself to

You too.... Bob
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the ECM and fans if I remember right. Maybe the one(s)for the ECM is sticking on........

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starts/runs when you jump it? If so check the big black box mounted by the radiator (on top i think) (I think its called a power module or something like that)for stuck on relays. Unplug that box and then check for your 4 amp draw. The box is just a bunch of relays for the computer/cooling fans/ and other things, cant remember.
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The box you're talking about is the IIRC (integrated relay control box) It has (4) 30 amp relays in it. Cooling fan, Fuel Pump, computer and ?? Don't remember the other one
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Man that was AFU. Its an IRCM integrated relay control module. It must be too early in the morning. My brain is fried.
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LOL, Ya thats the box Im talkin about.
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OK, one more suggestion. We know you have a 4.55 amp draw. This is continuous, whether the key is on or off or removed. Have you tried removing the plastic trim from around the steering wheel and unplugging the connectors that go to the ignition switch to see if this eliminates the current draw?
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I've been to every auto parts store in the surrounding area, and they all said they can't test the TFI module. I did the resistance checks from the shop manual and the checks from http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3349/test.htm and they all seem okay. As far as the load going away, I will try to clarify: Before, when I started the project to find the ground, I hooked up the computer and the battery, and then just starting unplugging shit untill it went away. Eventually, i narrowed it down to the TFI module. That's when I did all the testing with taking it off and the load going away. After that, I inadvertantly found that with the TFI module off, the grounding wire would still pull the current. So now it's like an either/or situation.
So today I went out there, hooked up the EEC and the grounding strap (pulling 4.5 amps) with the TFI module installed but unhooked. Then I unhooked the TFI module off the distrubutor itself, and the current started fluctuating between 3.4 and 2.9 and back about once a second.
Any idea on what would cause this?
Shorts can be voltage dependent with semiconductors.

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If you have everything hooked up, does the car start?
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No, it doesn't even crank. I just get like a vibrating/buzzing noise from the starter solenoid when i take the key to start

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RedSkull wrote:

OK, you need to start from ground zero again and work your way back up.
Assuming your cables and grounds are all ok, you need to get to the bottom of the problem of this first and work your way back the other way. You have either a bad battery or starter if i were to speculate at this point. The other draw should not affect this problem with a charged battery. I take it you had your battery tested. That probably leaves the starter.
Mine on my 93 just failed. It was working fine. Then my wife went out and heard a clunk with the starter switch, but no spinning sound. I cleaned my battery posts and there was no change. Took the starter off and noticed the solenoid loose. Changed the starter and it was fine. There is a slightly hard to get to ground connection on one of the starter mount bolts that you might want to clean and retorque down before you jump to replacing parts. This lugged ground goes directly to the battery as i recall.
You need to get your motor spinning with the starter, then work from that point. starter? battery? wiring? that's the first mystery you need to solve. Once you get the motor truing over, then work your way to your ignition problems.
I wish i could tell you exactly what to change and solve your problem. With limited resources and equipment, its a tough call to tell you to replace this or that at this point. Just get the motor to turn over and work from there. You have had many good suggestions on what to check from many people here on the group.
I will consider myself lucky that most of my local autoparts stores will test many parts for free and do code scans for free. I guess in california, there is some anal prohibition against this. Maybe Arnold can set them straight.
Good luck on your repairs..
Bob
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In some previous posts, people were discussing the IRCM and the EEC, and the control of those two. Heres my question. When I take the EEC and Battery completly out of the damn car, hook up the positive terminal to pin 4 and the negative terminal to pin 49 on the floor of my house, the drain is there, completly seperate of the car and anything else. The same thing happens with 3 different computers: the original one, a brand new one, and one from a junker. Is this normal? Or is there something in the IRCM that controls the power through the EEC, and fails closed if you unplug it? That would seem like a silly way to do business
al

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This is 18 years of electrical troubleshooting experience. Right now, you need to forget about the drain. Completely, utterly forget about it. Hook everything up the way it is normally hooked up. Verify the connections on the solonoid are secure. I'll tell you right now that 12.04 volts is NO GOOD for a good battery. My mustang has not been driven in over a year. Not even started, and it's battery is 12.41 vdc. My daily driver Taurus is at 12.39vdc. Again, 12.04vdc is not right. Have someone try to start your car while you measure battery voltage. Measure it at both the actual battery post and on the cable terminal. The voltage shpould be the same. If it has any significant voltage drop when the key is turned to start, you have a battery issue. Please post the voltages you get on the battery with no load, and then when an attempt is made to start the car. Make absolutely positive the post connections are good.
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Did you ever find the cause of the amp draw? Does that vehicle have power seats?

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I think one of two things happened. One: He found it was actually a very simple issue and is too embarrassed to mention it any more after making such an issue about it. (or) Two: he got tired of us not buying into the super technical difficult troubleshooting scenario he was playing and decided to take it elsewhere.
My bet is on number one.
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I was just curious. I know a guy with a truck that was mysteriously draining the battery totally dead in two days. He replaced the battery twice, same deal. The cause was a stuck switch on one of the power seat buttons, which was drawing 4 amps. The power seats are operational with the key off. It took a shop 3 hours to track it down for him, and to my surprise, only charged him 1.5 hours.
Have a nice day!
Steve

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