|Some additional thoughts and comments:
|The engine mass is to small:
|It would seem to me that putting cardboard in front of the radiator
|for additional heat in the wintertime would work. But it works
|because something else is wrong and not repaired yet.
In comparison ( in my own defense ), I must say my 2003 Sable warms up
and -stays- that way, even at highway speeds and Zero and below
outside. Why is that ?
I did describe to you in some detail my *experiment* with a new Tstat
in my 97 Tracer. That if left at idle, I could in time, maybe 15 to
20 minutes of idle, get 1/3rd scale in the Temperature Gauge. But the
second I blew cold air over the engine by moving the car in gear, the
needle would drop to dead cold and remain there. Why ?
I guess it is because it is such a small engine, it doesn't generate
enough internal heat from combustion to over-ride the cooling effect
of the cold air flow. You know, take a 25 watt soldering iron outside
in Zero degree weather, and -try- to solder something with it. Just
isn't enough heat there. It is carried away faster than it is
generated. That is my theory, and I haven't seen anything come along
yet to convince me it is incorrect, using my own vehicle as a
| Otherwise Ford
|would have complaints from everyone in a cold climate saying that the
|car will not supply enough heat.
How do we know they don't? I have no idea one way or the other. I
never complained to the dealer about it, but it did Pi$$ me off enough
to trade in the car for something with a bigger engine.
| Think about it. If they sold
|100,000 tracers (my guess) and .01% had defective housings, then 100
|cars would not give enough heat. Maybe 50 cars would be sold in
|climates which were cold enough where people would complain. Maybe 5
|would complain and the issue would be fixed in or out of warranty.
|Hell that ratio is just a cost of doing business. I doubt it if Ford
|would do anything; just ignore it.
Yep, I agree, they would probably ignore it. However, I am sure they
know about it. I can't believe they don't know about this *problem.*
But since it isn't a Safety Issue, they aren't going to the expense of
a recall. My advice for now is go to a hi-temp thermostat. Something
around 180 degrees F. However, even then, it probably won't open.
Engine is too small relative to airflow in Sub-Arctic temperatures.
Unless you idle. But you don't buy a car to idle. You buy a car to
drive. So the next best idea I can come up with is to restrict the
airflow with cardboard or similar. Maybe even styrofoam.
| Just look at how long it took Ford
|to do anything about the explorer. Oh well, enough of my bitching
|about lack of heat when the temp hits the single digits. It will get
|warm soon and then it won't matter until next year. Like all of us, I
|You can't bypass the thermostat:
To my knowledge, which is limited to my anecdotal experinces.
|I would agree with you on my 99 camry, my 94 camry, my 92 roadmaster,
|my 90 Stanza and all the other cars I have owned. However I would not
|agree with you on my 91 merc tracer.
Mine was a 97, so I guess I can't argue this.
| Have you ever had the housing in
|the palm of your hand and wonder why all the extra plugs and holes are
|in it? Why is it so damn big? How come it rattles when you shake it?
|What is inside to make it rattle? What was Ford thinking when they
|designed it? Why is it $85 for a replacement?
65 dollars of replacement is LABOR CHARGE.
rest is thermostat, about $12
Now if you are telling me the part price is $85, then we have a
serious discrpancy here, as the Tstat for my 97 was $12 for the part.
|Ref a dash mounted control of coolant into the heater core.
|My 91 tracer does NOT have a dash control for controlling the coolant
|into the heater core.
Again, this is not the same as the 97 IIRC.
As I no longer have the 97 or manuals for it, and have never even
looked at a 91, there is no way for me to research this.
| There are no dash controls from heater core
|inlet or outlet to the block which would limit the collect flow. The
|dash control closes a door inside the heater box which directs cold
|air to the heater core or bypasses the heater core.
It may be so. I just am not aware of it. No experience with 91.
| Having replaced
|the leaking heater core I know this is true. I also made sure the
|door was not sticking in a partially open position which would allow
|cold air to bypass the heater core and give me colder air at the
|dashboard heater outlets. By the way, I took me about 50 hours of work
|to complete the job. Luckily my daughter was doing a semester
|overseas for 4 months and I could disable the car for a couple of
|months. Mfg wanted $1400 to replace the heater core.
That is where you have to make a decision, because the Kelley Blue
Book value for the entire car is less than that.
Sorry about your problems. Just trying to help.