'92 ford tempo? Help me!!!

Okay well i just bought a ford tempo for cheap! 900$ the body is in great shape the inside is too but when i drive when i slow down it shakes so bad it feels
like my car is going to fallapart we had a guy look at the breaks and ruders or w/e they are called and he said they look brand new and said my trany is slipping :? did i buy a lemon does anyone know what it could be?
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail-dot-com.no-spam.invalid (tezzy) wrote:

2 ??'s:
It only shakes when you apply the brakes?
Did you take it for a test drive? longer than just around the block, I mean.
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You paid way too much.
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On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 03:14:56 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail-dot-com.no-spam.invalid (tezzy) wrote:

Rudders are something that you'd find on a mid 70's US car ;-) Just Kidding... On to your car.
Try driving it on an empty road, putting the transmission in neutral and applying the brakes. Does the vibration occur? Yes: Brakes (slightly possibly tires/rims)
No: not brakes.
If it occurs when slowing from 40+ MPH but only when in drive, it is "possible" that the lockup torque convertor (if it has one) is staying locked instead of releasing and what you would be feeling is the shuddering of the clutch plate in the transmission slipping & grabbing.
However:
It's quite likely that you've got warped drums or even rotors (yes new brake rotors can become warped if they are either stored improperly or if they are installed on the hub over debris and then the wheel is tightened down.
Try bringing the vehicle to a qualified shop (if you're worried about cost get a free examination from 2 or 3 Mr Mufflers/Pep Boys or whomever in your area does free brake checks
Drop the vehicle off before they open and ask them to have a look at it but don't tell them what you think. Say something like "my sister is saying that the brakes are "funny" "whatever that means."
If the shops come to the same conclusion odds are that'll be your problem and they can fix it for you. Brakes can be fairly simple but remember that saying.
"Build an idiot proof device & they'll build a better idiot." :-)
If you can't drive it on the roads to get to a shop: 1) check that the wheels and tires are true with no split belts/cords or deformations. 2) remove wheel, hold down disk with lug nuts, spin disk & ensure that it runs true (you can use a piece of sandpaper or a file to help you find high spots as you slowly cross the surface with the disk spinning. (a good idea to look at the pads and ensure that the caliper mounting hardware was installed properly and is secure at this point). 3) Look for "bluing" of the rotors from excess heat (often time's there will be heat cracks as well.(that will give you a pulsing stop). 4) Remove drums. Look for contamination on the shoes (oil grease etc). 5) examine drums (or spend $5-10 and have them machined). 6) check shock absorbers damping ability (trust me this has come up before as well). Ensure that the shocks and suspension is in good order, secure and operating properly. Also check engine and transmission mounts are attached and in good condition.
I also wouldn't rule out a proportioning valve at this stage.
Are you beginning to see why it's hard to diagnose a "simple problem" based on just the year of car and 1 or 2 symptoms with no vehicle mileage or history and little information?
We'll need a bit more information about your transmission (manual/auto, what it does, etc. to give you any info on that).
PS if "the guy who looked at your brakes thinks your transmission is slipping but can't figure out your brakes I would recommend you find a different "guy" and don't let this "guy" anywhere near your car.
Hope this helps a bit
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