92Lincoln TC disappearing Oil

76,000 on TC . Running Goooooood ! Oil disappearing 1qt per 1000 to1500 miles. Dry under side No leaks . PCV valve new. Valve seals , rings , Intake , Head gasket ?

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On Sun, 06 Jun 2004 19:54:17 GMT, "Dan"

Probably valve seals on that vintage. If you let it idle at a stop for a couple of minutes with someone following, they will likely see the blue smoke when you start again. That would be a classic symptom of valve seal leakage. 1qt/1k miles is not enough to worry about to me. I am not sure that would even meet the criteria for a warranty repair on a new one. Mine was 1qt/150 miles when I bought the car with 67K on the clock. Valve seals on the 4.6L engine are an expensive repair unless you can do it yourself. You would need the usual good assortmant of hand tol plus a special tool to release the cam followers, an air compressor and, an air lock to hold the valve closed while you replace the seals. I found the tool on sale for about $70US at the time. I did my own after the dealer who I have known for years indicated Ford was paying 11 hours warranty labor for the job at that time. It took me longer over the course of a weekend since I had never done one like that before.
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To keep Valve closed can I remove spark plug and install a adapter for compress air line 125 PSI ? $70 tool is just for removal of Cam shaft ? Is it E Zer to pull head ?
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On Mon, 07 Jun 2004 00:06:03 GMT, "Dan"

Not easier to pull heads and will require special tool to realign timing chain. 125 psi will do nicely. Cams do not come out. Tool is to allow working under cam to compress valve springs and remove cam followers and valve locks while air pressure holds valves. I worked on cylinder at a time. The engine can be easily turned with a large wrench on the fan with the plugs out. Just bring each cylinder around until the valve is closed and use the tool to open the valve which allows you to remove the followers. Shoot the pressure to 'er and use the tool to compress the springs and remove the spring keeper and upper seats. Compressing the springs is much easier if you have a longer-than-usual 3/8" drive ratchet or breaker bar. You can then seen the remains of the seals which can be removed with pliers. Mine came off in multiple pieces as they were already broken. Be sure you get all of it. Check for a carbon ridge around the stem which should be cleaned to allow a clean seal surface. It is a time consuming job but, my biggest problem was getting the lower rear cam cover bolts out. I ended up having to buy a flex shaft extension to get at 'em.
I got my tool from a tool source on the net. You can see a picture of it here:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7928.html
This is what I paid from this same source. You may want to search around for a better price. I didn't find one. The price you see is about $40US off retail and is only for orders placed on the net. I did this and received the tool in about 4 business days. OTC is the manufacturer for Ford on this item.
Good Luck!!
Lugnut

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lugnut wrote:

Pulling the head will not only require removing the front timing chain cover and gaskets, but will still require a special tool to compress the springs unless the cams are removed first. The aluminum heads on the cast iron block also require expensive head gaskets and all of the head bolts must be replaced as they are "torque to yield".
I did this job on my '92 Grand Marquis and couldn't locate the special Ford valve compression tool at that time, so I removed the timing cover, timing chains and overhead cams and modified my existing valve compression tools to work in the overhead cam head environment. I carefully marked the cams for timing and used a pair of vise grips to locate and immobilize the cams when reinstalling the cam timing chains. This must be done with great care, because the 4.6L engine is an interference engine and expensive damage can occur if not done correctly.
The cost of the valve seals from Felpro was under $30, but the car was down for almost two weeks. I spent about a week either looking for the special Ford tool or making new tools and modifications on my existing tools. Get the special tool for under $70 and do yourself a favor.
I bought the car at 112k miles and it was consuming a quart every 400 miles. Afterward, I don't add any oil between 5000 mile oil changes and I now have over 205k miles on her. Stan K. 125 psi will do nicely. Cams do not

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Thank You for all the Gooood Info !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank You ! Dan
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