'93 Cougar brakes (no ABS)(did I goof?)

Hi Folks, Happy Easter!
I replaced the rear drum shoes a few months ago. a couple of weeks ago, the pedal was a little mushy. I thought a good bleeding would fix but found one
brake cylinder had failed and leaked a lot. While replacing it (and shoes again) I broke the connection for the flex line. I replaced it and finished the job with solid brakes.
I was tight on time but I did buy everything to do the other side with as well. On Thursday the brakes smelled funny. The left one was locking up. Since I needed to do the cylinder anyway, it all came apart today. Of course, this time I broke the main brake line from the master cylinder to the flex line too.
Parts joint had sections so I pieced together a new line. I can't get a solid pedal after bleeding now. I must have screwed up somewhere. I traced the failed line 4 times and fluid doesn't squirt out of the old line so I think I disconnected the right one... but now I'm not sure. The Master cyl has porportioning valves screwed in to one side. The actual lines have 2 different threaded fittings. It happened that the left rear line went into one of the porportioning valves. Is this right?
Haaalp!
--
P

Blessed are the cracked:
For it is they who let in the light.
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I just bled everything again, the old fashioned way with a helper pushing the pedal, etc. I get a solid pedal now until we start the car. It then immediately goes woosh to the floor. We pushed the pedal again after shutting the motor off and the master cyl area made a big woosh / phart sound... not something I have heard before. More pumping while engine was off gave pedal again. The rear brakes do activate when the pedal is pushed.
I only removed one line and it didn't really drip much as I swapped connectors. I am sure I got the right line. Am I seeing a new problem that happened while doing the other repair?
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I've have read that if a car has been around awhile the bore of the master cylinder that never sees any action during normal use tends to corrode over the years. If you spring a leak and the pedal travels all the way to the floor there is a chance that seals in the master sylinder will be damaged by the corrosion, requiring replacement of the master cylinder. The end result will be a soft pedal all the time even after wheel cylinders are replaced and brake shoes and parking brakes cables are adjusted to spec.
Don't know if this is true in your case.. but just a thought.. unless a proportioning valve needs to be reset in some way.
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The car is fixed. I forgot Shade-Tree Rule #16, never believe the helper who says the pedal goes to the floor, even if it's the person who has been driving the car daily for 13 years...
I finally decided to go over everything again - doh!
PoD
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Whew!
--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
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Quite an emotion ride, eh? I guess I gotta get back on my meds...
PoD
wrote:

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