'93 Taurus 3.8L - Runs 20min then quits

My Taurus will run for about 20 minutes and then just quits and it will turn over right away but wont start for about 1/2 to 45 minutes.
Here is what I have changed recently:
New plugs, cap, rotor, coil
Motor has about 184K miles with new head gaskets about 10K miles ago.
I have checked the spark and everything looks good. PCV valve is ok as it rattles in my hand. The diagnostice point to the electrical system and the vacuum systems as the most likley.
I am suspecting something like vapor lock or some thermal related problem, as it will restart after cooling and/or releasing the vacuum.
Any serious guesses or things to check would be appreciated, along with the procedure of how to accomplish the task: unless it is in my haynes manual.
Thanks,
Michael
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Assuming that the car starts, idles and runs fine other than that. And that the engine just 'dies'... even while driving.. with little or no warning or rough running.
Ensure the Fuel pump runs for a second or two as you switch ign to ON
Pull the ignition module - knob handled thin wall nutdriver available for about 5 bucks
If it's got hardish caked white grease on it, that's likely the problem. (or if it's got none).
--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Had a 6cyl inboard boat just like that. Replaced just about everything electrical, and the fuel pump. Turned out to be a bad coil, or some resistor wire that ran to the coil. Bought a coil that has the resistor build in the coil. Problems are always where you look last! :) The coil overheats, breaks down and quits. Cools back down after awhile and try it again and it works. Funny, we had spark at the plugs, just not enough to start it up, although you could see spark! Good Luck
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net wrote:

It's somewhat pointless to keep looking for a problem once you have identified and remedied the root cause unless you're taking preventative measures to prevent a recurrence.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I would check the crankshaft position sensor wiring connector for corrosion. If the connector is clean, you might try replacing the sensor itself. If this is the problem, it will not show up on the dealer's diagnnostic machines. It will drive you nuts till you figure it out. Good luck.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I think the TFI modules of that vintage eventually succumb to heat failure.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Micheal, it's time for you to buy a new car. Used Tauruses sell for such low prices it just doesn't make any sense to hold on to your bether '93. Is your car in decent shape? Or does it have rust everywhere and the interior is torn up?
You can buy a used 2001 Taurus for as little as $5,000 private party. I recommend the ones with the Duratec 24 Valve engines. They come with the AX4N transaxles rather than the AX4S. The "N" is more durable.
East-
93 Taurus wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.