93 Taurus, A/C problem

i got a 1993 Taurus, GL... 3.0.. its got the stardard manual a/c unit.. last year the a/c quit working and woud start right up and work fine.. i traced it down to an electrical problem but going straight to the a/c
compressor and jumping it and it would be real cold in the car for a few minutes while it had the compressor engaged... it turned out to be the cycling switch that is screwed into the accumulator as it would work sometimes and sometimes not..... well this year, a few days ago it started pumping hot air... i opened the hood and could see where the a/c would cycle on and then off, on and off... it seemed like it was 10 seconds on and 10 seconds off.... the accumulator used to get real cold and sweat last year..... not its just engine heat of the engine temp... i put some gauges on the vacuum line and pressure line... the pressure was like75 to 125 and the suction side was like 20 to 45..... from what i understand it seems to be the correct pressure..... i got the shop manual and they have a chart and from what i understand at 80 deg. outside temp. this seems normal... its been a while since i did any a/c work so i might be wrong and might be reading the temp. chart wrong???? the book also has a trouble shooting chart...if it recycles very fast, off and on then its low on refrigerant????? but then i read it as not being low???? and if its not low then the next step is a blocked up orifice or evaporator coil or line???? any help would be appreciated.. i tried to just jump the recycling switch with a jumper wire and the compressor stayed in the ON the whole time i had the wire there, but the pipe(vacuum line) nor the accumulator got any cooler..... one last question... the inside of the car.. the temp dial for the a/c??? if you leave the dial on hot will the compressor still come on and only let cold air into the car or does this dial/switch also control the operation of the compressor??? if so then i gotta go there to check out the switch(but dont want to do this if its only a diverter of the cold air from the evaporator coil to the inside of the car.. right now the underhood parts that normally get cold, do not get cool or cold at all... thanks for a reply...
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
jim wrote:

Sounds like your low on freon. Which puts you in an interesting situation. Since you leaking it probably, putting more in will just leak out eventually. You have to be certified to buy it anyway (and R12 is expensive). You also probably have leaking o rings at the compressor and the condenser coil. These can be a SOB to remove even with the special tool to pop the retainer spring loose.
Converting it to R134 is a possibility. You would have to replace all the orings with the green ones, and pump the unit down. So if you don't have a vacuum pump and the spring removal tools, it will not be a DIY job.
The wife just tried ours on our 93 wagon and so far all is fine. (fingers and toes crossed)
Bob
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
BOB URZ wrote:

use the same ones(plastic slip arounds that they used in the eraly 80's.. came in a set of three or four clips on's.... and i make me a vacuum pump out of an old refrigerator motor, now i only need the old 99 cents a can freon bottles that they USED to sell at most auto parts stores.... (which they dont anymore)... guess i will have to put it in the shop.... was keeping the fingers crossed that it might be somethingelse????
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
If it is R12, just get a kit to convert it. About $45 for everything. It probably just has a slow leak. Change it to R134A and see how it goes. There are brands of 134 that have stop leak in them too, I've had VERY good luck with them.

--
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com ).
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Scott M wrote:

sounds like a good idea...
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
jim wrote:

Do yourself a favor and change the orings before you do a conversion or repair. I have taken a few taurus apart. The orings had turned into this pile or deteriorating goo. At least change the ones up front.
If your mechanically ambitious, you can use a BBQ propane tank and recover your r12.
Bob
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Hey guys guess what, i Have one of those old cans of r-12 they used to sell in the auto parts sotres. it has the plastic top that locks down so you dont freeze your hands off. Its 90 percent full. but i have one problem. I dont have the plastic hose the connects to the car. does anyone have one they can lend me? i will send it back with the epmty can or whatever remains in it. hit me up if you can do it. but be fast, im sweatin my nut sack off here.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.