93 taurus wagon

the car had crank but would not start.we had towed to the garage and then it started.I believe the mechanic replaced the coil and everything fine for 2 months.The other day the car would crank but not start again.Any
ideas?
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woodyx wrote:

TFI module on distributor.
Bob
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How long do the TFI modules normally last?

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Bill wrote:

Till they die...... ;)
There was some sort or class action suit on them awhile back. Some can be intermittent, some just die. When the one in my 90 went, i was out with the family going 35 or so when it just shut off. It would crank all day, but no fire. It mounts on the base of the distributor on a 3.0 and takes a special thin wall tool to get the bolts off. Then it pulls down and out.
I also has a coil fail on my wagon which caused it to go dead. similar symptoms. crank but no fire. I tried the TFI first, but still no spark. Then i put on a coil and all was well again. nIt helps to have a timing light or such to confirm if you have spark or not.
Bob

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I've never had a Motorcraft (Ford) tfi fail unless the lube was caky.
Need the heat sink grease replaced every 5 years or so to be sure.
HAVE had aftermarket ones fail for no reason. i get mine from the Junkyard now.
If it's a Motorcraft and the lubes greasy, It always works.
All ford would have had to do was remote them like the TBird (93 at least)
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Hmm. Will regular "heat sink" grease work?
My 93 SW has 120K on it and runs well, I've never done anything to the TFI and was wondering if I should "touch" something that's working. I think I'll get my "heat sink" grease out and clean the TFI up.
Thanks for the help.

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Bill wrote:

Yes, and buy the special thin wall socket tool to take the TFI off. You might want to start you car at night in a dark area and look closely at all your plug wires for signs of arcing.
Bob

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Done that and replaced all the wires already. On the othe hand it was a nice "light show."

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Could possibly be the fuel pump

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On Sun, 31 Jul 2005 20:06:31 -0400, "woodyx"

Had that same experience a few years ago. Engine would crank like it had lost the timing chain and had no compression with an occasional attempt to fire up. Problem was corroded ground cable to control box under cover on left side of radiator. Cable is position such that water causes corrosion in the splice out of site. Solution was a new battery ground cable. Design is such that it can be difficult to splice. The part hat is a problem goes to the control box there. The telltale on mine was a high pitched whistle when I would turn on the switch. Don't knw what made the sound that allowed me to track it down. Maybe this is your problem.
Lugnut
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