93 Taurus Wagon battery drain problem

Hi,
93 Taurus Wagon, 140k miles
Battery goes flat when left for 48 hours When I put an ammeter in series with the battery current drain is 1.2 amp with ignition off and doors closed
Battery is new Alternator has been replaced Current drain remains same at 1.2 amps if alternator terminals are disconnected.
If I remove Fuse #8, battery drain drops to 0.39 amp
Owners handbook says Fuse #8 covers Clock Radio memory Chime for keys in igniton Keyless entry system (this car does not have one)
Online Workshop Manaul says Fuse #8 covers Clock Radio Memory Glove Compartment Lamp Luggage Compartment Lamp Instrument Panel Courtesy Lamps Interior Lamps Illuminated/Keyless Entry Module Power Mirrors
Only thing I have discovered is that the turn signals do not work, neither left nor right. However the warning flashers DO work.
Have tried removing the electronic flasher unit but that makes no difference to the current drain problem.
Have also disconnected the Multi Function Switch but this also has no effect on the current drain problem
I will take a look at other systems listed for the fuse number but I suspect the non working turn signals is where the problem lies.
Anyone have any bright ideas.
Al Moodie.
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wrote:

Forgot to add, pulling trouble codes reveals: 33 EGR valve not openning 133 can't find any data on this code>
Al Moodie.
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Sounds like a wire is chafed somewhere. I've seen this happen to where the wire insulation gets worn very very thin when the wire passes through a hole that is not grometted, but it's not quite completely worn through - so you end up having a current draw but not a direct short. If you leave it alone long enough and just drive the car eventually it will short out and start blowing the fuse.
Since it supplies the radio, if the radio is aftermarket that is where I'd start looking first, is a wiring hack job. If the radio is factory, then either turn signal wiring or turn signal switch.
These usually take a long time to find unless you have the factory service module that not only has the schematic, but where all the harnesses run in the car.
Ted
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"Al Moodie" wrote:

No help on the drain, just keep looking for something that's still on.
The code(s) may just be the same code 33 in "continuous memory" and "current", each repeated, plus a separator pulse between them.
Here's KOEO codes 33 and 33: 3..3.....3..3.............(sep)...........3..3.....3..3 ***..***.....***..***.............*............***..***.....***..***
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wrote:

Remove fuse #8 and close the door to turn off the dome light. ;-)
It can stay at 0.39 A for a minute or two as the ECU writes to memory - IIRC there's a crash recorder function in some ECU's to record a 'snapshot' of throttle position, shifter position, brake pedal pressure and other stuff for 30 seconds before and after the accident that stays energized for a bit. Airbags ECU might be recording G-forces and accelerations.
(Don't get paranoid that they're spying on you - it's not a long term record, they just want enough clues to figure out what happened in the accident, to see if the airbags and seatbelts worked as designed. If your car records this stuff at all, it has to be extracted from the computer by a crash investigator with special computer gear.)
But after a minute or two max the quiescent current should drop below 0.02 A (20 milliamps) for the clock and ECU memory refresh.

Just try unplugging items one at a time, and see when the load disappears. It could be as simple as a bad switch on the glovebox light, and that would be enough - pull the lamp and see...
Where is the 'Luggage Compartment Lamp' - it might be in a little hatch to the rear, and they can stick on too.
1.2 amps nice and constant would be a resistive load on all the time. Stuck switch somewhere, maybe energizing the mirror motor constantly? If there was a chafed wire you would be blowing fuses.
--<< Bruce >>--
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On Mon, 26 May 2008 09:38:55 -0700, Bruce L. Bergman >

Yes I have tried waiting to see if the current drain drops over time but it remains the same after 30 minutes.

Will try unpluuging items and see what happens. Probably wont have time until next weekend. Will report back.
I am still confused as to why the turn signals do not work. I have to believe the turn signals not working is related to the battery drain problem, but according to the fuse diagrams, fuse #8 does not feed the turn signals, and with the ignition off there should be no power feed to the turn signal circuitry.
The know the electronic flasher unit works are the Warning Flashers work.
I have had the Multi-Function switch appart, examined it closely and cleaned all the contacts. Turn signal contacts appear to be fine. You need 4 hands and quite a bit of time to put this switch back together.
Aren't puzzles fun.
Thanks to all who have resonded.
Al Moodie.
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While it's possible that your lack of turn signals is related to the battery drain, it is unlikely. The turn signal issue is very likely a faulty MF switch or flasher. For the battery drain, in addition to all of the other good suggestions, I would suggest disconnecting the voltage regulator and rechecking the current draw.. Your Taurus should have a separate regulator mounted in the right inner fender IIRC.(behind the coolant bottle?) They very frequently short internally causing current to flow through the alternator field winding when the car is turned off.
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On Tue, 27 May 2008 06:57:13 -0700 (PDT), Tom Adkins

My Haynes manual says the voltage regulator should be next to the battery. You think it should be behind the coolant bottle.
I turns out this 93 wagon has the voltage regulator built into the alternator, at least I believe so. When I replaced the alternator, the replacement had the same part number as the original and I just phoned the manufacturer and they confirmed it is internally regulated. Also there is no sign of a voltage regulator in either of the above locations. I also read somewhere that they can have internal regulation but I can't find the reference. Confusing.
Al Moodie.
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Alldata for my '99 shows the parasitic drain should be no more than 0.05A, 50 milliamps. I don't have specific '93 data...definitely should be well less than .1A tho!
At first I would think it's a bulb left on, typically trunk, glovebox or console lid, but the .39A with F8 out is still WAY too much. I like the suggestion to check the regulator.
hm...does pulling any relays affect the draw? that info may help
Might be worth it to spend the $25 for Alldata or other factory data to get all the specific schematics for your car. I like Alldata because I can print out the diagrams I need and take them out to the garage without worrying about getting my expensive manual dirty.
--Don Don Byrer KJ5KB Radar Tech & Smilin' Commercial Pilot Guy Glider & CFI wannabe kj5kb-at-hotmail.com
"I have slipped the surly bonds of earth; now if I can just land without bending the gear..." "Watch out for those doves...<smack-smack-smack-smack...>"
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wrote:

Spent the $25 at Alldatadiy.com. Tracked the current drain to a faulty ignition switch, it left the car in some kind of auxilliary circuits mode. Replaced the switch, $23, and drain is gone.
Turn signals problem still persists. All of a sudden they came back on for no apparent reason, then half an hour or so later they went out again, must be a connection somewhere. Maybe I will look at the problem again tomorrow. I'm tired of electrical problems.
Al Moodie.
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wrote:

Nicely done! and thanks for posting the resolution...so many people grab some info and disappear.

My gut feeling is flasher, turn signal switch or the connections to it, especially since you said the hazards all work OK.
Me no expert tho.
1 problem down, more to go :)
Don Byrer KJ5KB Radar Tech & Smilin' Commercial Pilot Guy Glider & CFI wannabe kj5kb-at-hotmail.com
"I have slipped the surly bonds of earth; now if I can just land without bending the gear..." "Watch out for those doves...<smack-smack-smack-smack...>"
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Did you spill soda or coffee on the steering column ?
Bill
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On Sun, 1 Jun 2008 16:59:06 -0400, "BerkshireBill" >

water runs all over the window controls, so far no problems though.
Al Moodie.
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Hi,
Finally tracked down the "no turn signal" problem. The power supply to the multi-function switch which feeds the turn signal was faulty, I suspect in a multi-point connector buried deep behind the instrument panel. Almost totally inaccessible.
Ran a new wire from the fuse box to the multi-function switch and all is well.
Al Moodie.
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wrote:

Glad you found it...nice job O'troubleshooting!
I had a wierd one on my 99 a few years back: the car would start and run, but nothing else had power. Found one of the power feeds dead...one wire in the harness had been nicked & the copper corroded til it broke. I tore off the fenderwell and took out the battery to find THAT one...
next time i'll just run a new wire :) But it was a quest!
Must have been nicked BEFORE installation cuz the wire was buried in the middle of the bundle!
--Don Don Byrer KJ5KB Radar Tech & Smilin' Commercial Pilot Guy Glider & CFI wannabe kj5kb-at-hotmail.com
"I have slipped the surly bonds of earth; now if I can just land without bending the gear..." "Watch out for those doves...<smack-smack-smack-smack...>"
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