How did you come to the conclusion that it was bad?
Its unusual for a 3.0 to blow them. Common for a 3.8.
If it is truly bad, you might have had a bad head bolt.
Since you get two gaskets in the kit anyway, there is no reason
not to change them both. And clean the gunk out of the
heads and egr while your at it. And if you have not done it yet,
change the water pump while your at it.
If your going to keep the car, i would take both heads off and take them
to a machine shop and have the valve guides checked and the valves done.
So I'm told. Last week, leaving my driveway, a few rounds of missing,
followed by vast billows of white /blue smoke out the tailpipe. At
least it was just as I was pulling out, so I didn't drive it.
When I pulled the back head, the cylinder marked X below had 1/2 to 1
cup of coolant in it.
pass. 0 0 X
side 0 0 0
The exhaust manifold was loose at that cylinder, perhaps contributing
to the problem (smoke trails showed that exhaust gases were escaping
big time, maybe heating up more of the head than cooling design could
Well, sleeping dogs and all that.
Doing that - gosh, only 11 bolts to hold it on? You can always tell
the design projects that went to the junior engineers. Of course, 2
broke coming off, and only 1 had been crossthreaded on original
Have a rebuilt/revalved head arriving tomorrow.
Are you rebuilding the head that came off or getting
a replacement? I am kind of curious. When you get the bad head
off, report back. Were all the head bolts tight and OK?
Where did the gasket fail? Was the old head cracked?
Oh BTW, while it is torn down, make sure the piston goes all the way to the top
of the block, it is very common to bend the connecting rod ( as well as blow the
cylinder wall out ) when that much coolant gets in the cylinder. Use a dial
indicator and compare it to the other pistons. Even a small amount of bend will
cause a engine miss. Take a double look at the cylinder with the piston at BDC
look for anything that even resembles a crack. To find a damaged cylinder after
you did all this work will surely make you pissed at your self.
Bob first -- head is off, no obvious issues with head bolts (they all
backed off with equal-ish wrenching.) No obvious crack.
Also no really obvious issue with the head gasket, so Thomas may be
right about the manifold gasket.
I'm replacing the head, only because I got a good price on a remanned
one ($100 including shipping, about $25 more than cleaning and planing
in my area).
Yes - will check piston travel and, yes, I'm worried about a cylinder
crack, because there's no definitive leak around the head gasket and I
don't know what I'm looking at re: the intake gasket.
*** LARGE GRAPHICS FILE ALERT ****
I've put up a Web page, with HUGE picture files sorry to say, at
If you have cable or DSM Web access, you might want to look at them --
it looks as though the manifold gasket might have been leaking. Or
would the injector o-ring be steam-cleaned and the intake manifold
inner surface be rusted if the head gasket was the problem? Would the
rust stains on the intake manifold gasket for the affected cylinder be
there (it's the only such rusty spot on the two intake manifold
If you don't have fast access, I can re-do the pix to make them
smaller, but don't have the time tonight.
I'll have to study the pan idea -- the car is in the drive, not on a
hoist... the y-pipe is still there and still has the exhaust manifolds
hanging off it... and I'm running out of stamina and real, real tired
of removing nuts and bolts and unplugging things... though if you tell
me that crushing a bearing means I'll spin it, dang. A little knocking
I can take, but spinning does things to the oil flow & pressure and
too many chips will clog the oil intake.
The remanned head is minus rockers and gaskets, otherwise complete. I
wont't see it until UPS shows up tomorrow, so I can't tell you more.
I'll have to study the old rockers and put them against the cost of
the right thing, new rockers & pivots, but, hey, they're fairly easy
to replace if the turn out to be too worn.
That's kind of a myth about "spinning" bearings. The extra clearance may be
enough to cause the bearing to fail over time due to the bearing not being able
to do it's job in controlling oil flow ( letting too much run out of the bearing
low lube damage ) and also because the extra clearance will cause excessive
movement between the rod and crank ( the knock beating the bearing up ). I know
it is a little more work, but it is not by any standard hard. It is a very easy
pan to remove. Consider it very cheap insurance. Bearings are cheap, cranks are
not and are a lot more work.
"Dave G" <dgayman(at)rcn(dot)com> wrote in message
Seconded. For the amount of work and down time doing one head will take,
doing both is a sensible precaution.
| George Ruch |
| "Is there life in Clovis after Clovis Man?" |
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